Now that I see the real value and seem to understand what an H2C is actually for, I still have a few questions before I finally place my order.
Basically, I’m getting rid of my H2D, which I only bought for support filament in the left nozzle only. That worked perfectly, but for the future, depending on models, I often need support (left nozzle) and then I need .4, .6, and, in rare cases, .8 nozzles.
Long story short… because I’m a lazy dude, my main goal is to automate nozzle changes based on diameter and, if possible, assign materials to specific nozzles.
I’ve checked that out now, and the H2C seems to fully meet my requirements.
I know nobody can answer this for me, but I’m still wondering if any H2C owners have any recommendations:
This would be my ideal configuration. My question is: does this make sense, or should I use two of each diamters? The .4 nozzles would be used primarily, and the .8 nozzles the least (at least currently).
Am I overlooking anything, or are my assumptions about this fundamentally flawed?
Last but not least: I do love my H2D because it´s a workhorse and does everything absolutely flawless. Can i expect the same behavior from an H2C? (under normal circumstances and without factory defects or shipping damage etc.)
For the time being, you can only use both hotends in a print if the nozzle diameters are the same.
So it is really the left nozzle that you need to worry about first. Make sure you have 1 for each diameter you have used in the past, maybe 2 X 0.4’s.
Only then should you look at the Vortek nozzles.
For the right nozzle, the tool changer will take the fitting diameter if installed. So if, for example, you have a 0.6 on the left and only one in the vortek rack, the H2C will essentially be an H2D.
For myself, I usually use the 0.4mm and occasionally have prints for a 0.2mm. So I equipped my Vortek with 6 X 0.4mm and got another 4 X 0.2mm on order for a total of 6.
Note that swapping a Vortek nozzle on the rack takes about half the “effort” of swapping the left nozzle.
My H2C is still in double digit print time so I can not really comment on longer term performance. But it is a big step up from my X1.
I also already ran a minimum layer height “campaign” which exceeds what my X1 can do (going down to a nominal 0.01mm which my X1C just can not achieve).
What do you find the need for an 0.8 nozzle for? It is pretty easy to run into volumetric flow limits on these printers with a HF 0.6 running 0.8 line width and tall layer heights.
I feel like your justification is not strong for the H2C as others have said, you will need to change the left nozzle to match the right nozzle anyways so is the price worth the small effort of manually changing one nozzle vs both? If you see significant purge savings then maybe it makes more sense.
For multi-color, it does indeed make a big difference in both waste and time
I tend to invest it right back into more detailed prints, i.e. lower layer heights
Looking forward to experimenting with “multi-nozzle diameter” type prints. 0.2mm nozzles throughout, Outer wall 0.22mm, all other lines 0.42mm, Arachne Wall generator…
That at least is possible in the slicer atm.
Okay, then i got something wrong. I thouhgt i have/put permanent a .4 nozzle to the left extruder which is only meant for support filament and nothing else. (like i do it on my H2D even if someone or all find this stupid)
And then i thought putting some .4, .6 and .8 nozzles (as desired) into the vortek would do the trick for me.
So if i slice/print something in .4 .6 or .8 the vortek takes to correct and corresponding nozzle itself. I do mean one project is .4 only, the next one .6 only and some are in .8 only (not mixed diamters in one print).
And finally do i got it right now? The left side nozzle (in my personal case the so called “support filament only nozzle”) needs to always have the same diameter of the “main” nozzle diameter of the object? - even if it is used exlusive/just and only (really nothing else) the desired support filament?
Then this printer is maybe not the right one for me, because then i can stay with my actual h2d and .4 on both sides… The only benefit for me would be (only single color prints and one diamter per object/print, but different objects with different diamters the automatic change of the nozzles on the right side per object diameter size.
With support i do mean just the interface layer and usage of “support for pla” filament - with that i have good results and i won´t change this even everyone tells me that there is something better/cheaper/younameit. - will not happen.
Because it was asked: .8 is meant for real large (head/helmet sized) prints in vase mode, dont know why this is some sort of questionable but okay.
I absolutely do not care about filament waste or multicolor dragon “sh*t” tiktok like prints, i do care about long time prints in different nozzle sizes and mostly single color (99,9%) with the benefit of having support filament (which i will not change, even everyone tells me to do different) on hand all the time (in the left nozzle)
Yes. So far. Bambu has stated that it is working on multi-nozzle diameter slicing, but so far, there’s a set limitation.
Not sure. You could have both the support filament and the model filament assigned to the right hotend which changes automatically. Changeover is pretty fast (although not quite as fast as between hotends). Loading the Vortek with 3 sets of 2 nozzles each would achieve your goal.
But it would not be as fast as the H2D (unless you account for the higher flow of the Vortek nozzles).
So until Studio allows multi-nozzle slicing and you are not so interested in deliberate line width/flow rate experiments (in order to use smaller nozzles for thicker lines), it may indeed be better to wait a little.
I only have the experience from my X1 with the 0.6/0.8mm comparison. I found the limit to be the heating capability at the time. Both the 0.6 and the 0.8mm maxed out at the same flow. So there was no time saving possible from using the 0.8mm when compared to the 0.6.
But then again, high flow nozzles were only just emerging for the Bambu’s at the time. I daresay it may be very different today. And anyway, as you mentioned, a thicker line does have its own merits.
Thanks for clarifying in a way i do understand. Thank you!
So i can go -as for now- the all .4 nozzle size road or purchase additional .6 and .8 nozzles for the left side then corresponding to the right building nozzles… that would mean i again need to manually change nozzles (did i state that i´m a lazy person?)
■■■■, that means i would need a left/right so called dual vortek printer
Or just give them a little time to sort out multiple nozzle size slicing. At least for the basic differentiation between line types, it should not really be that difficult. The basics are already there in the slicer.
If you want to reserve hotends for specific filaments, I have 3D models storage boxes ones with optional labels. The model can be printed with no supports including no supports needed for the hinge.
0.8 nozzle is not just for reduced print time - it also impacts print strength; the interface between layers is an inherent weak point, as is the interface between print lines. If the lines and layers are made up of thicker single-extrusion elements, the strength is greater (even if the print is a bit uglier)
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