H2D Accidental Heat Creep

Bambu Lab H2D
1

Heya!

So I was printing a PETG part with PLA supports - and I mistakenly left the chamber temperature set that I was using for PETG [no PLA] prior.

Needless to say the hot end couldn’t keep the PLA nozzle heartbreak cool enough in the hot environment and I jammed up the nozzle.

I have plenty of experience with this with my older Prusa MK3S when I first put it in an enclosure [~6 years ago] but this is my first issue with the H2D.

Would I be wanting to do a cold pull, or heat it up and try to ram it through with some PETG or something?

Maybe just heat the nozzle to 300c and then try using one of the nozzle needles?

I did some Google searching and searching here before posting this and I didn’t find anything conclusive [but maybe I missed it, and if so - sorry].

2

The cold pull might work you just have to hope it doesn’t get stuck in the extruder.

I’m not sure if you have the tools for the hot rod or Allen key method?

U-Tube video link in case it’s needed.

Unclog H2D Nozzles

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3

I can certainly try it - I swapped in my spare nozzle that came with the printer [which was a nice touch]. I have a couple of extras as well but I’d love to save this one.

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4

So it was jammed above the extruder.

I had to disassemble the extruder and pull it out from the bottom - which was a pain - because the filament was still in the filament guide which makes it hard to remove.

I’m including some pictures - one shows what I saw when I got the filament guide out, the other shows the filament itself.

What happened is while I was printing with PLA it was extruding fine. When it went to push the filament back out - it was too soft and just … mushroomed above the extruder.

Hoping my thread helps someone else that runs into this [but moreso that nobody runs into this by being dumb like I was].

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5

Most extruder clogs can be cleared by just removing the filament guide instead of full disassembly. Bambu also just published a model to aid with it:

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6

That’s exactly what I did.

That said - those parts they used in that guide … I’m printing them now - those are fantastic.

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7

Glad to hear you’re back up and running! When prototyping designs with PETG, I use YXPOLYER Breakaway 80 as the interface material it offers a better temperature range (220°C to 260°C), unless I need to work with soluble filament.

8

I have had good luck with PLA+PETG [and I have both on-hand] but it was simply user error on my part setting the chamber temp when I didn’t mean to.

Live and learn!

I’ll check out YXPOLYER Breakaway 80 for sure - that said - I’m really enjoying printing ABS/ASA today … and may switch to that from PETG for most stuff.

9

I also use HF PETG as an interface layer with PLA to allow printing at a lower nozzle temperature. However, with YXPOLYER, I don’t need to worry about being overly cautious or dealing with heat creep. I’ve also used it successfully with PC filament. I wouldn’t recommend using it with PA. As for ASA, I haven’t tested YXPOLYER with ASA yet, so I can’t say how well it will perform.

I have used other high temperature support filaments with ASA.

10

Honestly I’m new to the whole support filament thing - up until now all of my printers have been single-extruder and single-color. I have been using Prusas since 2019 and never jumped on the MMU bandwagon.

So now that I have a machine with dual extruders - I can use different support materials and I’m super excited.

I wish Bambu Studio had a more intuitive way to set it up - but it is what it is ;).

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