I must say the surface quality of the print is way worse than on my other two P1S.
The surface texture on the side walls is rough and it shows a quite some stringing. Same filament on my P1S and the same print comes out perfectly.
I have run all calibrations and I use the standard PLA profile in my Slicer. Also I get the same results if I feed from the external spool holder as well as from the AMS2. I tested also 2 brand new filament rolls. Did I miss something to setup?
May it be that the H2D is more sensitive to moisture? I now try to dry the filament.
Picture: left part from P1S and right part from H2D (exactly same filament roll, same settings, 0.4mm hotends each)
For what its worth… I initially thought the same thing, but after a few hours of printing things definitely improved for me. Now I feel like the H2D is laying lines better. (Also note, mine wasn’t as bad as yours, but it was noticeably off)
Not sure what made that happen, or what changed the outcome, because I didn’t change anything. For me the initial issues were poor line stacking, so its possible the automatic nozzle calibration helped when I started doing two nozzle prints… don’t know.
My suggestion, run the nozzle calibration and keep an eye out for improvements. Again not sure if it was the calibration or some belt anomaly (or something else), but it is now the best at laying lines of the printers I’ve had.
I dried the PLA filament now for 4 hours at 50°C and repeated the same print. It looks better now, but still worse than on my P1S (with undried filament).
Actually, mine looked like yours not the second person, and it improved substantially over time. Still, I’d run the calibration tests for the nozzles (there are two) and keep an eye on the performance. Drying filament is useful for top tier quality, but line stacking normally isn’t something that is improved with drying. Drying will clean up micro bubbles (and their bursting) causing bad surface finish, but how it stacks lines normally isn’t apart of that.
I didn’t do anything, I just keep printing and it cleared itself up. But to try to push you along without having to wait the first 30-40 hours, I would say run the two calibrations on the printer’s settings interface.
Its possible you already have one set to automatically run, but the second is the “High Precision” calibration for the nozzle offset. Granted… they are both Offset calibrations, but its close enough to the problem to give a try.
Offset calibrations are to make sure the two nozzles come back to the exact same spot when you change nozzles, but since this is a problem with the nozzle returning exactly where it should, I figure it’s worth trying. Not going hurt anything or waste money trying it (maybe a little time, but nothing substantial).
