Unless I mixed and matched my stock of power cables, can you check what you received with your EU printer?
I did not use what I think is the provided power cable (again unless this is not it but I’m pretty sure it is) as I think it’s underrated for the max power of the H2D.
H2D is specced at max 2200W at 220V for 3 minutes giving the time for the bed to quickly heat up. My concern is the provided power cable is stamped 3G0.75mm2 and I think this is good for 6A continuous and may be 10A peak but may be not 3 minutes at that rating. I think the cable should be at minimum 3x1mm2 of wire section to be on the safe side which is what I am currently using on my H2D.
What is misleading is that the C13 connector is stamped 10A but the EU power plug is stamped 16A.
I submitted a ticket to bambulab so that they guarantee the cable is not underated for a euro spec H2D?
Have my UK and US friends been provided with the correct spec cable (metric or AWG) that is consistent with the max power of the printer?
Fun thing with C13 connectors is that under IEC 60320, it’s going to always be max rated as 10A. UL 498 cert however, treats it as a 15A/120V safe rating. Outside the US/CAN, it is 10A.
BTW, 3Gx0.75 is rated 10A. The receptacle plug has it’s own rating, like the C13 has its own. The 6A you see might have been PVC 3x0.75?
A bit related, in Canada the printers sold by bambu webshop are not ETL certified. There is a local brick and mortar dealer in Toronto goes through the hassle of certifying them himself so he can sell them (at a markup) to institutional buyers, as its a requirement for them.
0.75mm cable in the EU is good for a max of 10A.
And that is under ideal conditions, e.g. not coiled up, no damages,…
As per the EU standards I was familiar with before leaving this means any device requiring more power also requires a matching power cable of at least 1 square mm in diameter per wire.
Most either go with 0.75 for all low power devices and jump right to 1.5mm for anything above the 10A mark.
But I guess costs mean those things changed a bit and some companies take shortcuts.
Why would the cable matter if the printer only ever goes the max for a few minutes at best?
Nothing in this world is ever perfect, especially not when it comes to electricity…
These few minutes can be more than enough for a damaged or otherwise compromised cable to start a fire…
A 3m long power cable of 1.5mm wires would cost about 2 bucks more but that’s a huge sum once you consider the volumes Bambu is playing with…
I had the issue with a power supply for a two way freezer.
A friend got it dirt cheap and in great condition through a garage sale and wanted me to check it properly before putting it in the camper.
Was surprised to find a high end solution for the power - fake high end as it turned out.
A thick cable with a sturdy looking plug that even had a ring for easy pulling out of the outlet.
Fixed to a power brick with two cables coming out, one for 12V, the other supplying mains power to the freezer once the brick is powered.
And all you had to add was two wires from your battery - to terminals on the same freaking power brick…
Long story short, it had screws, so I opened it…
The thick cable did not even have an Earth wire and the other two were 0.5mm editions - for a freezer with a label reading it draws up to 1800W during start up…
It worked but my FLIR cam showed that the power cord warmed up whenever the freezer kicked in.
Not much but once confined and layered in some camper…
Thank you all to confirm it’s fine and bambulab will certainly confirm this although power of the printer just maxxes out (not quite though as voltage is really 230+V rather than 220V) the rating of the cable.
I still prefer to use this to be on the safe side (assuming my cable is not a fake from the same supplier of your freezer cable :)).
