I wonder if my H2D is faulty, or if my expectations where wrong
and would like to learn about other peoples experiences with the H2D
what do you do with it ? and how much ? how does it work ?
i consider myself somewhat experienced with 3d printing.
i owned the ultimaker2 for almost 10 years and had it printing a TON of PLA.. i upgraded it a few times, did disassemble and re-assemble it entirely 2 times with new belts and maintenance and it worked perfectly. then i bought the X1C and it was awesome. for a year i had a great experience, with almost 100% successfull prints in PETG-HF
then i upgraded to H2D, in the hope to be able to print in different materials, mainly hoping to use PVA with PETG or ABS,
But with the H2D i have NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS.
fail after fail after fail after fail.. i cant print anything on PVA or other Support Material, (as it doesnt stick.. naturally) Supports keep tipping over, Layer shifts, 0.2 nozzle cant do anything else than being clogged,
the ONLY thing i am able to do with the H2D is printing single material Petg-HF with a 0.4 nozzle.
yes, i got the HT dryer for PVA and i dry everything before printing.. even with ABS i usualy have it at around 8%. which i manage to get with the ams2, as the printer has his own room where nobody is breathing or such.. i can see geometries that could work with pva, but not the things i would need it for.
what material do you usually use ? are your objects geometric or organic ?
i struggle with organic sculptures.. i wanted to use ABS in order to be able to do acetone vapor treatment .. but its hard to even manage to finish a print.
While waiting for my printer to ship, I took the Bambu corses. Great refresher. Topics included the H2D itself, filaments and the Bambu Studio. It really helped me get familiar with the Bambu ecosystem before the printer arrived and I got carried away with the new toy.
i went through 6-8 spools of white bambulab ABS and now i have a error message:
the hotend cooling fan is running “irregular”, making the printer not print anymore.
apparently printing ABS emits fumes that cover the entire inside of the printer in a fine sticky mist.. which i wiped off from time to time from the surfaces,
but it seems like it did kill the fan.
I have an H2C and I’ve had pretty good success across a wide range of filaments. I’ve printed with PLA, PETG, ASA/ABS, PA6-GF and CF with great print results. I do have to use an adhesive on the build plate because the textured PEI plate just does not like things to stick to it bare, which is disappointing but i would use glue regardless as a safeguard.
I would recommend printing this file i found for a lid riser for the H2(S/D/C) that gives you a 4” exhaust port on the back of the printer for some fume extraction.
I can’t put the link in here but its called “H2 raiser with outlet for external FAN”
I printed one out of ABS and have a 4” tube with a small cheapo amazon inline blower fan installed and it works great to not only keep ABS/ASA fumes out of your workspace but to prevent film buildup.
support didnt answer to the ticket yet, but i asked Ai what “Eddy Current Coil” is and asked what kind of signal/data/voltage does go through the cables.. so if one would be connected to ground, i could find that.. or such..
Apparently the order of those 2 cables doesnt matter at all. and when i wanted to give it a try, i noticed a tiny tiny bit of glue on one cable and also on one side of the plug. So i was able to put them back in as they where and even managed to finish the fan change and re-assembly.
the old fan is really hard to spin with the finger.. and after a full calibration the printer is now printing again. (i had big doubts i would be able to put all that back together correctly.. )
.. i hope this fan holds up longer than the old one.. i purchased the printer like 5 month ago and its not like it was printing all the time… not at all.
I have had an H2D since July 2025 and haven’t had almost any problems with it but everything you have mentioned I have read of people having problems with. The .2 nozzle, and also PVC and supports issues. I print pla, petg, and tpu. I’ve use pla petg supports on a single nozzle printer and I could never get it to flush enough and always had a mess of a time picking out supports and ended up throwing the part in the garbage so I really hate using supports.
I bought a roll of PVC with my H2D but then after considering it and seeing all the problems people had and how much time would be added to my prints I just sold it on ebay. I don’t even bother to do the PETG/PLA interface trick. I just take off my supports and sand the areas by hand and with a rotary tool. I print mostly 1/12 scale miniatures, dioramas, vehicles, furniture, etc. Mostly my own designs which are mostly free of supports.
The H2D has problems with supports sometimes. The slicer sometimes will put the supports right on top on the model when I try to use a different style of tree supports. I use the setting to put the tree supports farther away from the model and it helps but it still wants to bend back on top of the model. I have read about people having the H2D knock out supports which I have had happen. I also read people having supports not even touch the model and being too far away.
But I design most of the things I print and I tend to design it so they don’t need supports. I’ll separate parts just to avoid supports or too many color changes. So I’ve avoided most of the problems people have concerning supports with the H2D.
Amazingly it does very little to reduce the chamber temperatures. I’ve run multi hour prints at 65C in the chamber printing out PAHT-CF and the chamber temp stays solid. Even on maximum fan speed with the blower fan. But ive found that low-medium/low is enough to extract fumes.
Besides the nozzle blocker issue, H2D has been basically problem free and giving me great results. H2S has been pumping out big parts non-stop. High confidence in both machines now, likely to get more. H2C I have no experience with yet, really don’t have a business case yet for that one, but sure seems nice.
I am sick of the 2 nozzles on the same toolhead because it can’t use the entire bed, and they need a nozzle blocker that get damage in every warp. I hope they do something similar to the Prusa CORE One INDX, instead of the H2C, which isn’t a game changer since it can’t work with flexible materials, it can’t use the entire bed, and it creates more movable parts. I feel Bambu Labs needs to take the route of Snapmaker U1 or Prusa CORE One INDX with different connection types as they expressed their concerns in the H2C promo
I work with mostly engineering filaments, lots of glass-filled, parts for industrial customers mostly, tooling, and some sporting goods. We use mostly X1C and P1S machines heavily in addition to H2S, P2S and my personal H2D machine. The vast majority are single-material prints especially in production, but we’re gradually gaining confidence with dual-material printing, i try to leverage this more often now.
