ABS is fine too. Just make sure to use black and white.
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I spoke to IDE, the standard plate is 1mm G10 but they can also do 2mm by request.
I have been looking for a Smooth plate like what Bambu used to sell for the H2D, that will work in the H2C and found one on Amazon that is dual purpose. One side it smooth, the other is cold. I haven’t printed cold plate anything yet on any machine, but for making some keychains I want a perfectly flat face, and while Glacier is close, it still textured. The plate I found is from G-Hubble Store and it is identical in performance to the Smooth BL plate, so if anyone is looking for one, check out G-Hubble Store. It was $40, but quite pleased with the results.
There are plenty of smooth PEI plates for H2C on aliexpress. I got one for $20 and it performs the same as the bambu OEM smooth plate.
Thats if you “trust” aliexpress. If it’s anything like Temu, Oh heck no. My wife ordered something from Temu over a year ago, it was delivered last week after getting “lost”.
I wonder what the practical limit on G10 thickness is for the H-series before it errors out, given that the H-series uses eddy currents to sense distance to the spring steel. My X1C would accept any thickness because it relied only on nozzle tapping and force sensors located underneath the build plate to determine nozzle height above the surface of the build plate. e.g. In extremis, what would happen if you put, say, a 6mm thick piece of g10 on an H-series? Would it ram the nozzle into it while looking for the eddy current signal? Or could that be overcome through a setup calibration?
About the G10 plate, I was able to fix the dents that were caused by Nylon. I flipped the plate over and heated the bed to the max 120c for a few hours, now its back to being flat again.
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Here is something I printed that could only be done on a G10 plate. They are high temp tweezers, printed from PPS-CF with TPU for AMS soft touch sides. Since I was doing both TPU and PPS in one print, I had to turn off the chamber heater and turn down the plate temp to 40-50c so the TPU would not fuse to the plate. But even at those low temps PPS-CF had good adhesion on the G10 plate.
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Do you have a link?
There aren’t many smooth build plates to be found for the H2C.
That’s “normal” for G10—I have it too.
But it goes away during the next print—when the plate heats up.
Here you go: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL4mnun
If you just search for “H2C Smooth PEI” you will find more sellers.
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