Have you tried basic PLA, instead of silk? The included benchy is tuned for that not silk. It might not make much difference, but silk usually needs different settings to get the best out of it. It could be worth a try.
Hi. Yes I did. Itās exactly the same as the Silk. I tried the Silk just because itās easier to see than on the Basic black (and because I donāt have a lighter PLA Basic to try). Iāve printed a few Benchyās nowā¦ and all seem to fail in the same way. The best version (not great) was when turning off the flow, levelling, etc all to OFF (instead of default Auto)
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Not sure whatās going on there then, as you can see from mine itās certainly not having the same issues. It looks like a cooling issue, but have you checked that the hotend is tight, including the heater block? Iām just guessing here, so might not be any help at all. Hopefully support will come back to you quickly.
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Goign through all possible things Iāve read up on hereā¦ checking for bent parts, loose screws, belts, adjusting fan settings, etcā¦
Main reason I posted was because my results looked virtually identical to the original poster (WisestMoose), and then on April 26th, just4memike posted their result alongside orignal and itās so much cleaner and better, no hull distortion or buckling. So makes me think thereās definitely some ācommon-causeā going on here with first print out the box and the built in Benchy.
Whatever the cause is it seems to be rare as I havenāt seen anyone else but us posting with this issue. It took me about a month with support and the back and forth. Atleast a week of that was waiting for replacement parts to try. Hopefully it will be faster for you.
In case it helps someone, the latch that holds the hotend in place should be somewhat easy to latch. If youre having to force it shut, the hotend isnt seated correctly. It is possible to have it slightly off, but still latch.
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Found another on Reddit as wellā¦
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1jprcsq/we_got_the_h2dnot_impressed_by_the_benchy/
Similar print issues seen on their built-in Benchy print. Many comments saying to slice it yourself and forget the built-in model, but for me that adds another variable in the comparison and bypasses why some people report the built-in Benchy gives really clean surfaces and is great and other folks get the results weāre seeing.
By using the built-in model it rules out the slicer, so I figure can only be down to hardware tolerances or environmental differences (i.e. sensors measuring differently and thus compensating differently between machines).
Anyway, still early days and still hunting. 
also have small problems with my h2dā¦ the prints from my p1s looked betterā¦
ironing and top layers always look horrible on the h2dā¦ i tried a ton of stuff wich used to work on the p1s but no luck with the h2dā¦ i really wonder why nobody from bambulab is writting hereā¦ because this is a major problem LOL
This isnāt a support forum. 
To get official assistance, the proper way is to file a support ticket.
The forum is great for finding solutions, tips, advice, and other insights shared by fellow users.
i dont need their assistanceā¦ 90% of what they say is the same, they say to every userā¦ almost like on a computer tech hotline? did u try restarting? LOL
i really doubt there is a REAL solution yetā¦
so tips and advices are not so helpful if there is no solutionā¦
Iām interacting with them and getting a little bit of having to check their boxes, but they are slicing my models and looking at them, sending me pre-sliced models to try to see what results I get, etc. No solutions yet, but they are at least trying.
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Iām also having print issues but itās caused by auto flow dynamics being out of wack. The lowest k factor Iāve gotten using auto calibration for PLA is 0.049 and it doesnāt matter which nozzle is used. That same filament, when manually calibrating, gives me a k factor of 0.02. is there some sensor used for flow dynamics that could be bad?
Try printing a benchy from makerworld, donāt use the one that came with the machine.
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My H2D prints perfect. Measurements of parts are matching what I constructed in CAD almost 100%. I will get the calibration plate from Bambu today to make sure this will last in the future. My X1C was good, H2D amazingly perfect without any layerlines on 90 degrees walls etc. Honestly, even with undried PLA from Bambu excellent results. After I setup the printer I checked the build quality and something got lose - nothing, quiet stunning build quality of the printer itself.
The only flaw on my H2D is coilwhine from the PSU when the heatbed LED begins to flash. Its no defect, just some noise. I will open a ticket if Bambu would replace it, otherwise 120 bucks for a PSU doesnt hurt me after to total bill of this insane hobby
An update with the new printer. It still struggles immensely with the top layer for under extrusion. If I am printing a model with a small amount of top surface it does a pretty solid job but anything mostly flat is still bad. Like a keychain. This new printer definitely shows changes to settings where as the first one didnāt change no matter what I did.
Using latest firmware and bambu studio. I have gone through almost 2 dozen changes trying to dial it in. Is anyone willing to share their matte print settings that work well for them with me so I can try a different baseline to build off of? I have the same issues with basic pla too so itās not just a matte issue but I want to start with just the type I have the most filament of. All for the .4 nozzle. The .2 I canāt even get past the second layer before I get an extrusion overloaded error. But one problem at a time.
If you enable develop mode for the slicer, you can set the top surface flow ratio independently.
Hello,
I bought an h2d a month ago.
I wasnāt impressed with the print quality from the start, but I thought it was state-of-the-art.
I couldnāt print that much with one printer, so I ordered a second one.
The second one arrived, and Iāve put it into operation.
And it prints much, much better.
Itās the same project that I send to the printers. And different parts come out.
Iām using the same filament, of course.
A few days ago, I re-lubricated the first (old) printer and noticed that all the spindles were black.
At the time, I didnāt know if that was normal. The grease on the new printer is white.
Also, the new printer wobbles less, runs more smoothly, and is quieter.
What do your spindles look like, and what about the complaint from Germany?
Sorry, what is a spindle in the context of an FFF 3D printer?
Whatever, the fact that youāre experiencing two exact same 3D printers printing vastly differently with same 3MF file and same filament proves that some machines are perfectly manufactured and others āidenticalā ones are complete lemons. Does such discrepancy come from the manufacturing line? Or later, caused by improper handling during transport? In the end, itās Russian roulette 
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sorry, not spindle. I mean ball screw.
all 3 screws of table are black.
My K value for BBL PLA Basic ranges from 0.029 to 0.031 on my right nozzle with a 0.4mm Standard flow