because sometimes things can get loose or damaged in transport.
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Hereās a round part with my right nozzle(left nozzle doest print at all right now). All Factory bambu PETG HF with Factory settings and this filamentās been dryed for 8 hours and then 10 hours in the AMS 2.First time Iāve seen banding on a round item. Itās been a week since I submitted my support ticket. I havenāt received any parts from bambu yet. I think some of the print quality issues are due to variations in temperature. All I received was an email stating to change my print speeds to slower speeds than a bambu A1 Mini and that they were going to send some parts. They wanted to verify my address( even with the many orders I have all using the same address) I responded within 10-15 minutes and I havenāt received any response yet. Iāve spent probably close to $10,000 with bambu in the last 6 months. I would think I would get better customer service.
I donāt have that kind of banding but my wall quality improved after I did something that is not supposed to help for thisā¦ I followed the wiki for improving my bed adhesion (which was already good but not perfect) by loosening one of the screw below the bed (see below from the wiki). When I did it I noticed a slight āclunkā which looked like release of tension from the bed. My adhesion became perfect and overall quality of my walls improved. Was this a side effect? The only thing I can think of is that this tension was on or off depending on the bed temperature and releasing it improved overall quality. It may do nothing for you but you may want to try it just in case. Note also that Iām on beta firmware 01.01.02.00 which by itself had already improved the quality of my prints.
- Use a screwdriver or Allen key to loosen the black side lock screw at the bottom front of the heatbed (about 1 turn). This screw is mainly used to increase the rigidity of the heatbed during transportation, but over-tightening may cause local lowness.
The screws are located on the lower front side of the heatbed
Loosen the screw in the direction of the arrow
- Re-run calibration and verify first-layer quality.
This is the link to the wiki page: H2D First-Layer Printing Optimization Guide | Bambu Lab Wiki
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Thank you, I will give this a try. Iām a little afraid, because my first layer is perfect LOL.
Are you on beta firmware as well? You may want to start with that if thatās not the case.
Yes im on the latest beta
If your first layer is good I would leave it alone
I decided im going.to leave everything alone until i hear back from Bambu. I have other hardware issues. I dont want to waste any more filament or time on this machine unless some of the other hardware issues get fixed.
Thatās probably a good idea. Hopefully all your issues are quick fixes or easily replaced parts. If not, Iād probably be asking for an exchange unit.
Did you check the flow to see if it indicated the scarf seam was active, considering the seam is positioned near the 9mm mark?
Some PETG filaments are not well suited for scarf seams.
I also occasionally adjust the speeds by using a small perimeter threshold.
This file I just loaded and hit print. If I attempt to print it again. I would do a manual seam on the back and turn off scarf.
Yeah, I get it sometimes we just want the part now 
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After reading most of this thread, I thought Iād post a pic of how mine is doing. Itās 4 days old, 24hours of printing and on the latest firmware. In the picture, the completed Marge Simpson (the one with arms) was printed today on my 1100hr X1C and the 2nd print was done just now on the H2D. Both identical, settings, all printed speeds are 150mm and accelerations are either 2000 or lower. I print slow all the time. 0.15 layer height. Printing artifacts are identical on both but the H2D is the better overall print. By printing artifacts I mean those oddities they are on a print regardless of what machine has printed it.
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a functional H2D only suffers from cooling lines and it can only be solved by either tuning down the cooling or use fibre reinforcement filaments. In your case, because the shape here donāt really have drastic layer time change (e.g., 4s previous layer, 180s next layer, and all fans go 100%, usually happens when thereās a surface above sparse infill)
for example the same part printed from my a1 mini vs my h2d:
cyan - a1 mini
pink - h2d
you can see H2D is actually doing a much better job here (though still suffering from the hull line)
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I wonder if a dynamic nozzle temp adjustment feature would help the āhull lineā. FLSun slicer has this feature, but I donāt fully understand it quite yet. It lowers the nozzle temp based on the size of the feature itās printing. It was their āfixā for the salmon skin issue they have, that didnāt really help it at all, but I wonder if it could help with the hull line and the bulging issues we have here.
wtf. would say both of your printer need a little bit support :Dā¦
itās not a simple bin, itās a bin with changing geometry and very thin walls. which is essentially the worst case for benchy hull line to appear. thereās really not much you can do with that gemetry. the reason the a1 mini appeared significantly worse here is actually a bit of warp in the corner. But the thing I want to highlight here, is that inconsistent shrinkage is normal, and it just happens when your chamber or environment is cold enough. My place is 20C right now thatās why it prints much worse than what it should be for my previous X1Cā¦ An enclosed, warm chamber would really help.
They sent this due to three different issues I had. Z banding, my left nozzle stopped working and getting random temperature readings. It just showed up right now, and I have to leave in 10 minutes for a birthday party
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Nice!! Be glad you didnāt have to spend the 500 dollars to buy it lol. Now you have some decent spare parts after you swap it out.
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Any news here ? In my opinion the Aux is a big player in this game - because its to strong for some modelsā¦