H2D Z-Banding

Im Experiencing Z banding in my prints, never had this issue on my X1C but on my H2D this seems to be an issue. On bigger prints its very pronounced, on smaller prints I can see it to.

Thinks I checked:

  • Filament is dry! Issue with new and dried filament, both PLA and PETG


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I have the exact problem too. The same filament that prints completely flawless on my P1S produces ugly z banding on my H2D.
Its really sad to see problems I had on my ender 3 returning to me on such an expensive printer.

The z banding is less prominent when printing with ABS but its still there and it drives me nuts.

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I have this too as you can see here.
Think i need to write the support.

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I have done my first print eith my H2D today and I had it as well, but only one distinct layer (out of 1600).
On my X1C this occured often in layers with filament changes (support material).

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Yup, same here. H2D, PLA, distinct banding on what should be a flat vertical surface.

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Guys, I have exactly the same problem. I think the software is not perfect yet, my x1c or a1 didn’t have such problems but the printers are a few years old

I hope that bambu support is able to help temporarily

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Same exact results on the benchy on my H2D as well for banding, but I’m new to 3d printing so I just assumed it was normal.

I haven’t ran the encoder plate calibration yet though to see if that fixes it.

What infill are you using? Look at the sliced previews and make sure layer times are consistent. infill type can have a big effect on layer times and wall quality.

With or without a USB drive inserted?

no USB inserted, good point tho

all standaard settings, Ive played around but it doesnt seem to help anything

looks even worse, I printed a poop bucket over night and that seems to be better.

I had the same issue when I received it.
I thought to myself, “Well, the H2D isn’t great in terms of quality…”
Then I looked at the back and checked the belt tension screws…
They weren’t tightened. So I followed the belt tensioning procedure, and now everything is perfect.

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I have the exact same Problem and tried a lot of different configurations but with no success so far.



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I will try when I get home after work today

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One thing i noticed is that my first 2-3 prints did not have such a hard banding problem.
The very first thing i printed on my H2D was a poop slide, that is a very tall part but it only has very minimal banding although i used old moist filament.


Now a week later my prints look like this:

There must be something wrong with the software or something is getting loose but i dont know what screws it could be.

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Damn that’s a Hugh difference, did you update firmware in between these prints? I’m going to try to retention belts when I get home, someone above here sudgested it

Did you do this one?

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I printed the same poop slide a week ago and you can see the banding extremely well.

I just finished this phone stand a few minutes ago and it’s absolutely flawless:

So for me it’s seems to be an issue with the firmware/software in general because if this would be a hardware problem it should be more consistent.

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It’s a combination of a lot of things:

On the hardware side:

  • problematic things:
    – new quick swap nozzle seat is a bit “problematic”, might need to rescrew things
    – default belt tensioning might be loose, do a quick simple belt retensioning.
    – default bed tensioning might be loose, I would suggest everyone to do a bed tramming and in the process it would also make the springs supporting the bed better tensioned.
  • non problematic things:
    – apparently the H2D has a MUCH better cooling system that might be too strong for PLA and cause more shrinking layer lines. You might need to tune down the cooling in slicer. e.g., 50% fan if layer time is higher than 40 seconds or something like that.
    – calibrations, calibrations, calibrations. do your full calibration after change the nozzle, or any sort of hardware adjustments. do the calibration steps before print (don’t leave them on auto mode)

In fact, even if you see bad layer lines, if you print a wobble tower it would be perfect. hinting that the layer lines were caused by other issues than the common cause, z lead screw.

On the software side, yeah there’re lots of improvements to be made both in Bambu Studio and the firmware, we shall see…

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