Im Experiencing Z banding in my prints, never had this issue on my X1C but on my H2D this seems to be an issue. On bigger prints its very pronounced, on smaller prints I can see it to.
Thinks I checked:
Filament is dry! Issue with new and dried filament, both PLA and PETG
I have the exact problem too. The same filament that prints completely flawless on my P1S produces ugly z banding on my H2D.
Its really sad to see problems I had on my ender 3 returning to me on such an expensive printer.
The z banding is less prominent when printing with ABS but its still there and it drives me nuts.
I have done my first print eith my H2D today and I had it as well, but only one distinct layer (out of 1600).
On my X1C this occured often in layers with filament changes (support material).
Guys, I have exactly the same problem. I think the software is not perfect yet, my x1c or a1 didn’t have such problems but the printers are a few years old
I hope that bambu support is able to help temporarily
What infill are you using? Look at the sliced previews and make sure layer times are consistent. infill type can have a big effect on layer times and wall quality.
I had the same issue when I received it.
I thought to myself, “Well, the H2D isn’t great in terms of quality…”
Then I looked at the back and checked the belt tension screws…
They weren’t tightened. So I followed the belt tensioning procedure, and now everything is perfect.
One thing i noticed is that my first 2-3 prints did not have such a hard banding problem.
The very first thing i printed on my H2D was a poop slide, that is a very tall part but it only has very minimal banding although i used old moist filament.
Damn that’s a Hugh difference, did you update firmware in between these prints? I’m going to try to retention belts when I get home, someone above here sudgested it
problematic things:
– new quick swap nozzle seat is a bit “problematic”, might need to rescrew things
– default belt tensioning might be loose, do a quick simple belt retensioning.
– default bed tensioning might be loose, I would suggest everyone to do a bed tramming and in the process it would also make the springs supporting the bed better tensioned.
non problematic things:
– apparently the H2D has a MUCH better cooling system that might be too strong for PLA and cause more shrinking layer lines. You might need to tune down the cooling in slicer. e.g., 50% fan if layer time is higher than 40 seconds or something like that.
– calibrations, calibrations, calibrations. do your full calibration after change the nozzle, or any sort of hardware adjustments. do the calibration steps before print (don’t leave them on auto mode)
In fact, even if you see bad layer lines, if you print a wobble tower it would be perfect. hinting that the layer lines were caused by other issues than the common cause, z lead screw.
On the software side, yeah there’re lots of improvements to be made both in Bambu Studio and the firmware, we shall see…