it’s 100% model/slicer issue. You can see all the smoothness issues only happen when there is a filament/nozzle change. nothing on hardware you can do.
So the new update apparently brought us the Precise Wall feature from Orca. It’s not as effective as printing outer wall first, but still it would bring some (nearly free) improvements.
If you slow down your outer wall speed so every layer has the same speed then you should eliminate the lines I think.
Already tried this, didn’t fix the issue.
And @hotellonely it happens even if its not switching nozzles
It is changing colours. It happens when something makes the layer printing time longer or shorter than usual.
I can even tell that it’s loading the white filament, which caused a long purge and significantly more pronounced layer line.
It’s not even something new, it has always been like this since the first day ever of multi colour printing.
I showed these before, these also correspond to slower layer times… its not just duel color
It’s FDM mate it’s doomed to have this benchy hull line issue, there’s nothing much you can do. If you still don’t understand: whenever there is a significant change in layer printing time, whether its caused by a top surface, an overhang, a bridging layer, a colour change or a nozzle swap or a pause in print …
a layer line is gonna happen on ANY FDM machine, unless you’re using fibre reinforced filaments which would make it significantly less pronounced.
1 Like
Been FDM printing for nearly 15 years (ultimakers, X1C), never seen this to this degree…
2 Likes
Why not just print a same model with same settings on your x1c and have a look?
I printed this basket on mine yesterday to see how it behaves, and I’ve printed this basket a few times before on my A1 and minis, and this one is slightly better. And yes, I’m aware that showing printers with no issues isn’t helping some. By the way, I had a few issues until I re-adjusted my belt tension.
1 Like
Actually I’ll give this one to the model design. It cleverly hides the hull line by its design (the geometric change near where the hull line would appear is a chef’s kiss, very cleverly hid the inevitable line.)
Can you try this with Wall Generator set to Arachne. It improved the lines like this on my prints by a mile.
I’d like to briefly share my experience on the topic, as it might help some others when summarized.
I also had significant issues with the print quality of the outer walls.
The first mistake I made was forgetting to enable “bed leveling at high temperature” during the initial setup.
The second issue was that my hotend wasn’t mounted correctly.
And one of the most important points, which has also been mentioned frequently here, is the excessive and fast cooling caused by the auxiliary fan.
To summarize, here’s what greatly improved my print quality:
- Perform full print calibration (possibly after every printer update).
- Check for loose parts that shouldn’t be loose.
- Adjust the auxiliary fan speed or better position the model on the print bed.
- Ensure a stable, level surface for the H2D (this wasn’t the case for me, but I’ve read about it several times here).
- And finally, the model itself plays a role, as is often seen and discussed. For example: if an outer wall is interrupted, e.g. by a hole, and the model isn’t designed accordingly, the outer wall won’t look great.
I hope my experience helps someone out there.
Make sure you guys are checking your dual extruder idler arm bolts. Mine were loose. It might be a placebo effect, but I’m almost positive my print quality improved after properly tightening those
1 Like
hmm dual extruder idler arm bolts?
Its kinda crazy how many times ive read about loose screws or a part being installed wrong from the factory or bad hotends and plates. Not good
1 Like
These
1 Like