That looks amazing!! What filament where you using. I did basically everything except the bed tramming. My first layers look fine tho
Also I tightened my bed tension screws (the 4 underneath the build plate) did you make them fully tight? Of just slightly tighter then stock?
The H2D has way to much cooling. The warmer i print the better the prints get 
When printing with Bambu pla i already turned off the aux fan completely and lowered all fan speeds by 10-20% and prints look awesome. Next time i try to turn off the chamber cooling completly.
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It was touchimg the smooth outer surface of the pulley. On the face of the pulley there is a big blob of epoxy to help keep the pulley on that makes the shaft impossible to measure off off. It also looks like the shaft has a flat spot for indexing. That blob of epoxy is not uniform at all and makes everything look like a circus trick to make you dizzy. This pulley is really tiny and in a tight spot. It was the best I could do. I did get a pointy tip to touch the flat spots, it seemed uniform but the belt would rub at the same time and pull the tip side to side.
The deviations you are measuring cannot cause your z-banding in my opinion.
I have the feeling that the bed had backlash on the guides. Otherwise I have no idea where your issue is coming from.
Have you all tried to replace the nozzle with the included spare? I had also some Z banding and also low layer adhesion on a very thin model. I tried a cold pull and noticed the filament was not extruding smoothly even after sevral cold pull. Rather than try to clean it with the needle, (I will do that later), I just replaced the nozzle and everything is great again.
Tonight I didn’t have much time and decided to send the good old Autodesk test to print. If I have nothing to say about bridges, tolerances and overhangs, I have many doubts about the walls. I printed it as soon as I got the p1s more than a year ago and they were definitely better. I’m a little perplexed. The adhesion to the plate is good with the new beta firmware, but the walls definitely not! What do you think?
I’m pretty sure my issue is with damage to the z-axis motor. I’ve never gotten a good print off my machine, so it must have been damaged in shipping. I opened a support case, but unfortunately did not hear overnight. In the meantime I ordered a Z axis motor, which I was pleasantly surprised they had in stock. Good on Bambu for having stock spare parts for brand new printers. It’s unfortunate, I haven’t gotten a good print from a $2k plus machine, and I expect to get it replaced under warranty, but for $25, I want to get my machine making good parts ASAP.
Have someone tested to print outer wall first? I think there is a bug in studio too.
I’m almost positive its a cooling issue at this point.
I’m waiting to hear back. If I print ONE part in one color I dont see the banding as much. Not sure what that means other than it happens when its moving from one part to another and cooling is different when it is doing overhangs and bridges. Here is a picture of 3 (of 4) parts that were on the same build plate at the same time. Each banding line lines up perfectly with a geometry change on ANY of the parts on the build plate.
EDIT: I wonder if the cooling fan is blowing the parts around(when turning on/off) as it is more pronounced the taller the parts get. These are thin parts and my single object part(different print) came out almost perfect but its a LARGE rectangle that wont get blown around. If so, if they could ramp the fans up and down instead of it kicking on like a hurricane it might work better.
I also tried a lot of different things to solve this problem but with no success so far.
I am still running the normal official firmware, no beta.
well, turns out that my guess was correct. The cooling is too strong for normal PLA and PETG. At least for bridging. I’m not sure if it would help, but try turn off the aux fan maybe. if it works then just print a fan deflector to deflect the air flow upwards, so that you can still cool the toolhead but not on the part directly.
cooling layer line is a common thing on any printer (especially fast printers), but it’s especially more pronounced on H2D in my experience. But it doesn’t bother me too much.
At what speed do you print in general?
I just find it very strange that a lot of people can print with default settings in Bambu Studio and the prints look great and we have to adjust so many things to get a result that is just…ok.
For large parts? No I have never seen even one good large PLA part without carbon fibre come from H2D online. Without fibre reinforcement it’s naturally hard to print large parts, let alone for a machine with large bed printing fast. If you slow down then yes it’s gonna look better anyway.
I’m printing in PETG HF. Well I accidently printed on balanced instead of standard and it was at like half the speed and still had banding. I didn’t pay over 4K to have parts not look as good as what my $200 A1 mini can produce. I expect the prints on any size to look good. If I do kids toys and the 2 color whale it looks fine. Its longer parts that have straight lines. I did a z banding tower and it looks great. Did a Benchy and it looks great. Both moving slow and no long sections. At least I feel like now it might be possible to fix with slicer settings or firmware (I hope). If the banding goes away on PLA and PETG HF, I will absolutely love this printer.
What filament are you using? Yours looks like it could also be flow related issues. I see what looks like really bad warping possibly on the one corner/point of the triangle. That would cause banding in that corner.
I am using Bambu Basic PLA Grey with standard setting. Yes, you are correct. One of the AMS holder warped and I printed them again to make sure that this isn’t the cause of that.
That was the new model without warping:
There was still z-banding but a bit less.
You could be right about the flow issue. The problem is I tried to manualy calibrate the flow ratio and the result was always around 0.98. The interessting thing is if I reduced the ratio the outer walls looked better but the bottom and top layers were underextruded.
The thing is I also see this on smaller prints like gridfinity bins etc. The only thing that I printed and was flawless was a smartphoneholder. I printed this thing 4 times and all of them came out perfect and it drives me crazy. XD
which 3 screws you mean exactly?
I wonder if it is still warping. Try turning the chamber fan down to like 10% to minimize the draft going through the chamber. Just keep an eye on the chamber temp if you’re using pla. PETG can handle some heat.
Also, try a different infill for testing purposes. Gyroid can sometimes make layer times differ. Try something consistent like rectilinear.
It looks like the smaller part behind the big one isn’t showing any banding, but that could just be the blurry pic.