Actually I have my P1S in a cabinet sized inside (560x560mm).
It is a Ikea Metod cabinet and I do not have an alternative space.
The two AMS I have on a shelf above. Electricity and fresh air
I have from the backside. I thought for the poopchute I could make
a tube to the level below.
I doubt if a H2S/H2D would fit? Any input is welcome.
Also the wobbly rubber feet do also make me concerns.
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I would say it depends on your setup.
If you go for the laser version, you should plan with fire safety in mind. Personally, I wouldn’t want anything flammable close to the printer. Running at maximum temperatures — 65 °C chamber, 120 °C bed, and 350 °C nozzle — generates significant radiant heat as well. For example, my nearest AMS2 Pro gets very warm just from the radiation, and the AMS HT unit I currently keep on top of the printer becomes hot enough that I avoid storing low- to medium-temperature filaments in it, as they soften too much.
So my first recommendation is to think about fire protection. In the event of a fire, you don’t want surrounding materials to accelerate the spread. Radiant heat can be reduced with fans or ventilation, but the bigger concern is the fire risk itself.
Regarding fit: an H2S/H2D is quite a tight squeeze in a 560 × 560 mm cabinet, especially considering airflow and the wobble of the rubber feet. If that’s your only option, I’d strongly suggest ensuring proper clearance, stable footing, and a safe path for exhaust and cabling.
No, I plan to buy the non-Laser version. The filament fumes are already enough
in my office area. As well no AMS HT is planned. The main filament storage is in the basement. ABS/ASA comes only very occasionaly to use. I mainly print PLA and PETG. As well no CF.
I thought maybe to remove the rubber feet or mount harder ones.
I could gain some depth and mount the cabinet e.g. 5-7cm away from the wall
and cover the side with some color matching panel.
You could try that, but aren’t the rubber feet designed to dampen vibrations in the system? Switching to stiffer feet would likely result in more vibration, wouldn’t it?
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I think the rubber feet are to decouple the printer from the object it stands on.
Similar to the P1/X1 rubber feet, which I dislike. With tighter space I guess less movement of the printer is better. Also regarding power and chute and filament feeding… At least I guess so.
Now I think I wait for the first real user reviews ( in contrast to the paid influencers).
If you don’t use the side mounted spool holder then width should be ok.
Your issue will be depth, you need an extra 5cm or so on the rear (above quoted machine size) for the power cable to plug in without mangling it at the bottom, exhaust fan bottom is around 30cm from the base and you will need clearance for it. AMS cable connections also protrudes about 4cm from the back of the machine at the top.
Wobbly rubber feet are ok mine moves around by no more than a cm in use. Counter intuitively the wobble is designed to help print stability from what I have read.
I would also be concerned about heat build in that confined a space, I have my 2D permanently connected to a 100mm fan duct to exhaust outside with an inline fan at the end of the duct. Forgot to turn it on printing PLA the other day and had a warning about chamber temps being too high. Printer has good space all around it so this was just due to the exhaust being restricted. With it in a small space and little room around it might be an issue.
Fumes wise the 2D is very good, I’ve got a series of Air Quality monitors (3x) around the small workshop space I have (3m x 4.5m max) and did some testing for base levels, then various air cleaning solutions. Barely see any PM changes which are not ambient (sits at 0 for PM1, 2.5 and 10). VOCs are harder to quantify, I’ve had it as low as 14ppb but during printing it tends to range between 150-500 ppb. Random examples, my wife’s perfume produces VOC peaks up above 4000ppb and natural bodily functions of farting see 1500ppb.
There is no obvious odour when printing (albeit I would never recommend your sense of smell as a good guide) and I’ve printed a lot of ABS and ASA on the machine in the 1100 hours its been run for. I also don’t get any ‘What is that weird smell?’ complaints from either my son or wife when they come home after having been out.
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If you want the printer to remain rigid, place it on a heavy platform—it will stay much more stable
Supporting Evidence
- Many hobbyists and professional users report that placing 3D printers on heavy, solid surfaces—such as paving stones or slabs—effectively absorbs and suppresses vibrations and wobbling, especially during high-speed or precision printing.
- A mass-loaded base (like a concrete or granite slab) dramatically reduces surface resonance when paired with a sturdy support, resulting in notably more stable and quieter operation.
- Real-world feedback consistently shows that heavier bases reduce resonance, dampen noise, and lead to smoother, more accurate prints, even when the printer is operating under dynamic conditions.
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The whole cabinet itself weigths about 100kg, there is no stability problem and it is mounted to the wall (steel concrete).
In the base compartment I have about 30kg of filament, don’t worry it does no heat up. So totally about 150kg including H2S and AMS (laoded with filament).
And clearly I am not trying to use the spool holder on the side. I don not use
it with the P1S yet, I have a spool roller above the printer on the level where the AMSs reside.Maybe not very easy to use with TPU, that I hardly used til now.
The wobbly feed I guess to remove as I guess it could be better no wobble that the printer would collide with the cabinet constantly. I also bought and did not use them on the P1S as well I tried the Hula. Both did not convince me on the P1S.
About the cooling and power I thought to give 5-7cm more clearance from the
wall to have a poop exit on the side plus power feed with a 90° twisted cable and air vent. Theoretically I could attach it to a wall hole used to exhaust kitchen fumes I don’t use as we are only to people working into my office and do not cook anything there than espresso. And I only print there very few things, as I do IT consulting for my living. I just do not like 3D printing in my apartment.
i place my H2D on a 500mm deep desk (IKEA Micke). It fits just nicely. But you need some sort of clearance on the backside for the poop chute, cables and tubes. 60mm is a bit tight, but perhaps it would work. I think i have a clearance of about ~70mm to the wall.
Maybe you can punch a hole on the backwall of the cabinet if you need more clearance. The backwalls of IKEA furnirtures are usually just thin plywood.
Sometimes you also have to clear up the poop in the poop chute (sometimes they clump together and get clogged) so make sure you can access the backside of the printer or think of another option.
As written above I will add some additional clearance (5-7cm) to the wall.
and make the chute sideways.
The actual printer is already on a sliding shelf ( UTRUSTA). But it is only rated to 18kg. For the P1S it was optimal.
I will look for a more stable version of sliding shelf.
Sliding rails for some server racks can hold much more weight, will look on this
area to get some.
My H2D also sits on IKEA furniture with a 60x60cm footprint, which fits perfectly. The waste chute is behind the printer and goes into a small, removable trash can attached to the cabinet (nothing I printed myself, in this case).
I banished the AMS to the drawers under the printer, but I had to reinforce the bottoms; the thin drawer bottoms wouldn’t have held up for long given the footprint.
(Although I have to say, I haven’t found the ideal solution; access to the AMS isn’t very good.)
But you can see that the weight of the H2D is already limiting the IKEA cabinets.
Sure everything has it’s limits. I already selected a 19" sliding shelf which can handle 150kg. I will mount it with brackets, an metal angle bracket and but an Ikea UTRUSTA shelf on top as 19inch stuff is more narrow. I will try it as I have it for free on hand (19" stuff). Unless I find something better matching. The whole stuff is mounted to a steel concrete wall. Everything is very solid, no plasterboardwall. No rattle, no vibration.
so you wanna place it on a sliding shelf? The H2D moves and wobbles alot, and I’m guessing that the slides on the sliding shelf are metal and are in contact with each other. Hopefully the rattling noises when it prints and moves won’t get too annoying
Here to the rescue.
I have the IKEA metod cabinet meant for fridges and freezers. Since I thought that was the most stable one.
There is just enough clearance (I did change the power plug for one with an angle).
The printer is sitting on a big slab of concrete (which also allowed me the slide in the whole printer in the cabinet).
Above that, I have a sliding shelve for the AMS 2 pro and AMS HT.
Then a solid shelve (that should hold the fridge but also gives additional strength to the cabinet) with cables and power strips. Followed by another sliding shelve with AMS 2 pro and AMS HT.
Then another solid shelve with an A1 mini.
Till now I still have to print a solution to get rid of the poop. But for now it just drops into a hole in the cabinet.
On the side of the cabinet is an air duct that vents continuously to the outside world.
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Thank you for the nice pictures. I like to have it very similar.
You used the space very well for the AMS 2 and the AMS HT.
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You do have to be careful with the PTFE tubes.
I just ordered some with a bigger inner diameter, since the PTFE length gets pretty long and by using the drawers you need some extra length. When closing the drawer the extra length can curl up a bit, making it harder for the filament to be pushed through.
The bigger inner diameter hopefully helps.
that’s a sweet setup!!
25252522
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Please be careful with that, if the inner diameter is 3mm, you can risk a filament break in the middle of the tube that is impossible to be removed because the filament can overlap over the other one.
Learned that the hard way some years ago with a tube with 3mm inner diameter and with PLA that was already old it jammed the entire tube.
What you can do is to buy another tube with a inner diameter of 4mm and slide this one over the existing tube. The external tube will add enough rigidity to the full set, increasing the bending radius and reducing the twistings.
Did that solution to another custom build printer and it worked well to avoid issues during the prints.
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I am back and forth between getting the H2D/H2C or the P2S due to available space.
I have a bench behind a sliding door where it measures 585mm in depth (wall to edge of bench) and 600mm from the wall to the sliding door. Height and width is no problem.
From the footprint of the H2 series it should be fine, but as mentioned earlier in this thread room for poop chute, tubes and cooling is also required, so I am very uncertain if I can actually go for the H2 series. Thoughts?
58cm should be OK (front edge of printer to back). That leaves room behind the printer for the power cable, slim poop chute and ventilation.
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