It’s bloody good. I also bought a load of extras as was under my budget. I have never used it had one and wow it’s quick and so smooth compared to any I have bought that’s 3D printed that leads me onto:
• Why is this printer printing better and most stuff I haven bought? I’m using PLA and PLA-CF so far.
• I have the stock 4mm hot end and was recommended the 6mm also. What would be better using the 6mm instead?
• PLA-Support - what is the difference in this compared to just using PLA? If it has to switch it uses up a load of ■■■■ out the rear end so it doesn’t appear to make sense financially using it do it?
• What is the the best canon fiber to use as I will mostly be using that for items that need to be a little stronger than normal PLA.
• Im brand new to using Fusion 360 but im getting that hang of it…slowly, im about half way through and im still not a point that im comfortable with so I would make the switch to something cheaper and easier to use would be great. I don’t mind paying.
• from my understanding when you import something to Bambu lab or Orcaslicer when it says fill does that mean that amount of mesh inside the solid as when Fusion STL files are made as solid and then it’s the slicers job of setting how much solid/mesh interval there is?
• I not loads of extras as it was under budget and is there any benefits of using the cold plate over the textured as I have been using the textured and the prints come off so easy and no messy glue.
I think that’s all I can remember. It’s fantastic so far and managed to make the item in the photo below which is in my workshop of the extractor I use behind the 3D printer as it completely gets rid of any fumes from the printer. I know it’s enclosed but I was originally going to get a printed without an enclosure so bought some of parts of that. The Carbon makes a bit of a nasty mess so this gets rid completely.
Printed with PLA and default settings. Only strange was thing was it that is did a very thin layer around the 3mm base which came off really easy but don’t know why it did that?
.4mm nozzle is fine. Some people like to use .6mm for faster speeds with a bit of a loss of detail. You can start to run into the issue that the Bambu hotend just can’t keep up with high speeds and a lot of flow. I wouldn’t bother with this now.
The Support-W filament (I suppose that’s what you meant by “PLA Support”) is a “breakaway” filament that is much easier to remove than using PLA for support. To save filament, specify that only the “support interface” is to use the support filament. Some models need support for features that otherwise would print in mid-air.
Yes, fill is internal to the part. It’s rarely necessary to actually print as solid (100% fill). 15-25% fill saves filament and printing time. The slicer figures this out.
The textured plate is great. I don’t use the cool plate anymore.
Printed with PLA and default settings. Only strange was thing was it that is did a very thin layer around the 3mm base which came off really easy but don’t know why it did that?
Your print looks good, but structurally if it is on a wall or ceiling and carrying weight - depending on size of print and how much weight, you will have a part failure at the layer lines.
If you load is pushing straight into the print it will be fine. Otherwise you need to rotate the part 90* so the layer lines are perpendicular to the load.
Check out Teaching Tech on youtube. He does a great explanation of part design and strength considerations.
Edited to add In Fusion, put fillets in your corners. Right angles are stress risers. Curves into walls will strengthen the transition.
What @sticks says. Any stress on right-angled columns sticking up from the bed are much more likely to tear off (also known as delamination), because the layers - the grain of the print - have weaker cohesion (sticking power) than the PLA itself.
Cheers for the explanation there. So in the photos the load is downwards so the weight is on the lower part and the top part is pulling away from the way if you get me? So the bottom part would be pushing into the base print is against the wall. How would I stop that?
I felt strong, I had a light go at breaking it and it didn’t budge. I think I used a 4mm wall so that might be why its ok?
Fusion 360 exported SLT
AMS PET
Nozzle Hardened 0.4mm
PETG - CF
Nozzle temp 250c
Textured bed at 70c
I used 0.20mm strength @BBL P1P
Support On - Tree (auto)
Rest is stock.
It a a small 15mm ID pipe connector made in fusion. STL file is attached also.
I’m not sure if it’s the 3D, Orca settings or Printer? I have had it about 2-3 weeks and it’s been fine apart I was doing this in PLA but forgot to select it so it printed jn PETG CF.
I did try the PLA filament first and I had my first printer fail. The cover popped off the nozzle area and it notified me via the app. It had also gone through the model slightly so was ruined. So I printed off something else in PEGT and then forgot to change it back to PLA. It was my second carbon print.
