I currently do all my inserts by hand, but I’d like to get a press. Can anyone recommend one that works well? I’m not opposed to a 3D printed one, but for the most part it seems the longevity of them is a bit short, plus I want it to be sturdy.
Also looking for a good recommendation for a soldering iron and press tips.
Well, you could buy one (Amazon, Aliexpress, local shops) or you could make yourself one. There are plenty of models to choose from on Printables (Printables). Personally, I’ve opted for the Stealth Press (Printables), which I made from PETG and ABS, and have been using it on a regular basis for more than a year now, without any issues.
For soldering iron , I went with this one: Soldering Iron Set, 100 W Amazon.de. Very satisfied with how it performs in terms of temperature control and usefulness. You may choose a different model and price range.
Insert tips https://amzn.eu/d/0oqeHVu
However, the real key is getting the right inserts and printing the correct hole size. Not all brass inserts are made equal, the ones with a shoulder set up neatly in a properly printed hole, whereas the ones that are either straight or have a ring require a press.
That said, I quickly found out that unless your design requires frequent unscrewing, the use of brass inserts versus self-tapping screws are a complete waste of money. In fact, I also found out that if one simply designs the holes correctly to use modifiers to create strong walls, one can tap a thread into plastic that in many cases works better than brass inserts.
So consider your typical M3 brass insert which is prices around $0.10 each. You have driven your cost of each model significantly. I’ll use a Raspberry PI enclosure as an example. I made one version with brass inserts, 4 for the board and 4 for the case itself. That’s $0.80 for an enclosure that uses only $0.50 of filament. Does that make sense if self-tapping screws will accomplish the same task? I mean I put the device together and have yet to disassemble it. I made a second enclosure purely out of PC and tapped threads into it and those tapped threads are just as strong as the brass inserts. Why can I say that? Because if you overtighten both, the both fail but in different ways.
For a long time I abused a discarded mixer to get inserts in the model.
Was one of these benchtop models with a big bowl but had a lever to lower and raise the actual mixer part - I only kept that part.
Added a little base and a clamp mount for an old wood burning iron running on a dimmer for temp control.
But as other people already stated: I only see two needs for inserts.
Frequently having to take things apart.
Model for sale where quality and finish matter and are part of the price.
Sometimes a part won’t really allow for long screw or bolts going through so a nut can be added.
And if things are really short I still prefer to use a nut, not an insert.
Might be a personal thing but I just like things easy and a little slot to push a nut in that I cap is faster and easier than an insert.
For those on a tight budget and wanting to get inserts straight:
Try a drill guide
Little hardened steel tubes, often coming with a flat base.
Just pick a size that fits the insert and/or holder.
Push the insert a bit through to have it easy with finding the hole, put the guide down and push the insert in.
Please do make a mark on your mount that indicates when the insert is sitting flush with the surface to take out the guesswork.
Good choice. However, be advised that it does require a number of inserts, which you’ll have to do by hand. Nothing fancy or too demanding, just a steady hand and a bit of pressure, and you’re done. Share some pics of your build if you can.
I too went with the Stealth Press. And because I’m lazy, I picked up a kit of parts from DFH. Sadly they no longer stock it. They do have a kit for the Stealth Press Zero. Might seem spendy at $39 but it was one and done. As I get even older, that has a certain appeal.