Anyone else seeing any issues with the heating assembly wires behind the plate, the coating seems to have lost flexibility and started cracking over time causing wire splitting. This is the left nozzle, original.
I didn’t issue a ticket for this, I just replaced myself. I do consider this a wear item, so I’m not so-concerned about reimbursement, just wanting to know if this is something to be expected due to the movement and heat, or if others seen this with the original, or maybe this is a known issue? The replacement seems better fyi…
Hm for me the two power wires are “open” at two positions. Since for both wires the insulation is broken at exactly the same positions, I thought this is normal. And was curious that on my H2C head from the upgrade kit, these insulations are not broken. But there is as well a rubber piece at the location were the cables are “clamped” into the print head. So the H2C definitely has a newer revision of the heater cable.
But this means that my wire are broken 4 times (2 positions each) after 1000h.
I did print a lot of ABS and ASA in the beginning and I am using the dual nozzle in a lot of prints…
I would say it depends on the temperatures you print at. I mainly print high‑temperature materials, with the chamber at around 65 degrees, the bed at 100–120 degrees, and nozzle temperatures of 270 °C and above.
This has caused all kinds of problems, and I have replaced the complete tool head so many times it is just ridiculous; I am now on my third H2 Series Tool Head with X-Axis Assembly | Bambu Lab US Store due to repeated disassembly and related issues.
So in my experience, the printer does not cope well when you run it in the upper range of its specified temperature envelope for extended periods.
Before the issue started happening, I was using left for primary like white or black and doing most of the color changes on the right. Last couple updates have sliced the files with majority of color changes more frequent with the left side, lol. Starting to think I should have been doing color changes on the left more to keep that nozzle from flexing the wires as much….
It’s just a weak point of the design. I wish they put inductive hotends on bot sides of the H2C. Just keep a spare hotend heater assembly. Just remember on the H2D you have two of them and they are both different so you need 2 spares. You don’t need spares if you are ok with the 1 week shipping or having Bambu being out of stock.
Yeah, not my first rodeo with bambu parts, I keep parts on hand for most wear items on my a series. I ordered 2 for each side…
Also agree about wishing on the induction, heck I’m waiting for a h2c-squared or v2max (whatever name they want) for left & right vortek. Love my H2D but my H2C is just amazing.
At the red circle both the heater wires have no insulation. And at the green circles they have just used some tape to protect the wires and bind them together.
However the cable protection on my H2C heater looks completely different.
Green circles much more protection and binding. Organe circle a specially formed rubber piece for the clamping location.
So how does yours look like?
Note: since I had major issues with H2C toolheads Eddy sensor, I switched the complete heater assembly, lifting mechanism and eddy sensor from my H2D head to the H2C head. I did as well run all possible combinations of these parts. Everything is 100% compatible even if it looks different (heater assembly and lifting bracket).
It looks like you have a newer version of the heating assembly than I do, so I am not entirely sure how yours is set up. I will need to unpack the latest fully equipped H2 Series Tool Head with X-Axis Assembly | Bambu Lab US Store that arrived yesterday, where everything is mounted exactly as Bambu Lab ships it.
That unit comes complete with extruder, heating assembly, Eddy sensors, and so on; after I balked at having to disassemble everything yet again, they sent the entire tool head instead.
The tiny dampening sticker on the nozzle blocker magnet seems either missing or like everyone else experiences > it magically disappeared. Honest question: was there no tiny translucent red colo(u)red noise dampening rounded sticker to reduce the “click” noise level when switching the nozzle blocker or did it change entirely since the H2 Vortek nozzles are slightly different? Just wondering.. mine fell off of the thing
I have not seen any sticker on my 1000h old H2D head as I installed the H2C Vortek upgrade to my H2D. But on the photo it looks like there is some red/orange color/glue on the left position magnet.
There is definitely something on the magnet on my H2C head in the red circle. But it does not look that red and it is the opposite side magnet as on your linked picture.
Honest question: was there no tiny translucent red colo(u)red noise dampening rounded sticker to reduce the “click” noise level when switching the nozzle blocker or did it change entirely since the H2 Vortek nozzles are slightly different? Just wondering.. mine fell off of the thing