@DWdesigns
I couldnt have said it better myself
Do you guys think they gonna put silica gel in original units. I saw many upgrades for old AMS with silica gel. I hope they made some Silica gel tank to keep moisture down in long term in this new units.
Theyâre right, heating isnât drying. If you have a graphing thermometer/humidistat, youâll see that simply raising the air temp lowers the relative humidity.
Heating dryers can only get the filament as dry as the relative humidity level in the dryer. And thatâs ârelativeâ. Increase the temp, the air expands and there are fewer water molecules per unit volume and RH drops. But not because the air is really âdryerâ, but more because the density of the air has dropped.
That effect lets moisture in the filament diffuse out, âhigher densityâ moisture is driven towards the âlower densityâ moisture.
But if you dehumidify the air inside the AMS, youâre lowering the Absolute Humidity and thatâs making much more âroomâ for moisture to diffuse out of the filament. Drying becomes significantly more effective.
Iâve been thinking about active dehumidification for my AMS. I am planning to use some Peltier plates I have. Run a current through them, one side gets cold and the other side gets hot. Theyâre not very efficient, which is why they donât get used more for âsolid state coolingâ. But for the volume inside the AMS, who cares?
My plan was to have an external box with the Peltier and a fan, and draw air from the AMS over the cold side of the Peltier, which would condense-out water which would drip in to a collection tray. The now cold but dehumidified air would then circulate back over the hot side of the Peltier before being blown back in to the AMS.
If I were to guess, thatâs what BBL is doing here. So maybe Iâll just buy theirs and save myself some effort.
I wonder if a heater would dry the desiccant while running and then the desiccant would maintain the humidity while its off though. Im not understanding how a dehumidifier would be cost effective over what I posted above.
You guys are probably right, and im just missing something
Desiccant would keep it below 15% once dry. Would only need to kick on when you open the lid. If a roll was wet at that time(new roll inserted) the humidity level would rise in the ams, causing the dryer to stay on until its dry. The humidity spike when you open the lid, is what makes the automation possible. In my hypothetical situation i posted earlier
With a soild state dehumidifier, would you not still also need a heating element to actually draw the moisture out of the rolls?
Maybe you guys are right, and this is only for maintaining the humidity in the ams, and youll also need an ams ht to actually dry the filament.
I bet the humidity inside a sealed roll with a desiccant pack is pretty low, but the filament can still be wet.
Some nitpicking: The density is not the reason for lower relative humidity. That would not sufficiently explain the amount. Instead, at higher temperature, the partial pressure of water is much higher. That means that the same amount of air can contain a much higher percentage of water molecules before the water starts to condensate. Above typically 100°C, the âairâ can contain 100% water without condensation.
Regardless of that detail, I fully agree with your point.
Didnât seem worth the specifics, just trying to get the concept across.
Iâm guessing the AMS HT is just a high temp drier and the actual AMS still dries just at a lower temp. When they say heating is not drying, the image doesnât have a picture of the HT so the AMS still dries it seems.
At this point I would think most of us have drying and storage figured out. I think I spent around $90 on a food dehydrator and yea itâs perfect (up to 6 rolls at a time). If it breaks, itâs a simple item to replace that serves 1 purpose(drying). My guess with the current AMS at 300 is the new one will be more, maybe 400? I want less parts to fix so Iâm out when it comes to the drying versions. Saving 10min on 100 changes, Iâm not seeing the point. 48hr print I had with like 1k changes so Iâm saving 1.5hr? I would have rather seen upgrades to handle soft materials like TPU and Iâm hopefully they at least make upgrades to handle abrasive materials without the parts wearing out super quick. If not, I just hope the current ams goes on sale cause Iâd probably add another 2 at a lower price lol.
In principal that sounds like a Sunloo s4, which is supposed to have both drying and storage mode with the ability to kick on based on Humidity. Yeah, I know, itâs a dryer not an AMS.
Sunlu
Yes, and Iâve seen a lot of threads that call it Subu also. Uh, it must have been auto-mis-spell. Thanks for correction. No disrespect to the product meant.
edit: or sunbu evenâŚ
Does anyone know wether they will be doing a X1/P1S combo with the AMS V2?
Ive only seen proof of an x1e ams pro combo on matterhackers
So the printer is going to have to switch filaments anyways since there is only one inlet port?
You use an external spool, the AMS HT, or a second AMS.
I know the Ace unit isnât airtight at all
Somebody needs to create a way to use the expelled humidity to pump into an actual humidor
I have modified my own AMS and added a Peltier with active cooling. I can keep the humidity @ 12 RH (power 10W). I made a lot of tests and I can tell you, that if you shut down the peltier, humidity will be back at normal level after about 30 min. I assume, that humidity will come in through the shell of the AMS. So, if you want to keep humidity low after turning off the active devices you would need maybe some metal shell which is tight.
Relative humidity is temperature dependent, turning the peltier off lowers the temperature and in turn the capacity for the air to hold moisture (increasing the RH). You want it to be warm because the RH will be lower and hopefully low enough to draw moisture out of the filament. The AMS is anlmost air tight, moisture is not leaking through the plastic shell.
This new AMS 2 will either vent high RH air directly or have some sort of membrane that allows moisture to diffuse through it. Curious to see how this works, not long now!
No, I doubt that. If you turn off the peltier, the cooling effect is switched off. The temperature should rise and the relative humidity should go down. But this is not the case. The humidity increases from 12 to ambient (>40%) within a very short time.