Any help would be much appreciated. The problem is that my x1c died mid 1st print. I get a light on the rear power switch and I get a dim blink every 3 seconds from the power supply led. Other than that, nothing lights up, spins, etc. I’ve Swapped out the power supply once and got the same result. Ive tested it with a multimeter and im getting 120 volts in but 0 out on both power supplies. I have a p1p also running great.
With all that in mind, what actually triggers the power supply to start supplying power? Could my problem somehow be in the top power button? Any way of forcing it to boot if so? Something like jumpering 2 points on the board etc.
Do you guys think its possible to have gotten 2 bad power supplies? I was suprised to see they are only 108 watts. Im guessing the bed uses 120 volts and doesnt need the <24 volts
Power supplies do die, but they usually go up in smoke when they do. But if something the power supply is powering has died with a short circuit (silicon chips can fail this way), the supplies are going to shut off as soon as you turn them on to prevent an overload. So if you’re testing the supply plugged in to the X1C, this might explain why two supplies both don’t appear to work.
Some power supplies have a “sense” line that has to be connected to something before the supply will turn on. This tends to be more expensive server type supplies, though. But since I have no idea what’s inside a X1C it’s possible it’s using this type of supply. Which would prevent it from working on the bench if that’s how you’re testing them…
Two in a row being bad are “long odds” IMO. No one ships a product that’s 100% defect free, there are always some that get through the production line looking good, that fail quickly once in operation. But statistically, for you two get two of these, lots of other people should be getting them too. We’d probably see others complaining about bad power supplies.
I suspect your problem is something the power supply is feeding and not the power supply. The slow blinking LED may mean “overloaded”. I’d expect the LED to be on solid if the supply was happy.
Im testing directly at the tabs. What you said makes sense. I read that sometimes a signal has to go from psu to board and sometimes back to the psu from the board also. Possibly main board. Hopefully its not the small board that the power button runs to. Probably harder to diagnose that. I may swap my p1p psu into the x1c just in case.
I looked up the specs for the Mornsun LM100-20B24-C power supply and it doesn’t have a minimum load requirement like some switch mode supplies. If you disconnect all the output terminals and leave just the AC connected, you should see 24VDC between -Vo and +Vo.
@GvD92 It was the ap board. If anything connected to the main board dies, nothing wants to work. Troubleshooting was to just unplug one thing at a time until the main board light came on. When i disconnected the ap board, the mainboard and power supplies lights went to normal. After that, i plugged the ap board back in and starting unplugging one thing from the ap board at a time. Nothing I unplugged made the lights happy (besides the main 4 and 6 pin plugs going to the main board) so it had to be the ap board itself.
Thanks for your update, I did upgrade the p1p to the p1s. al the newly made connections I allready unplugged one at a time with reboots in between. only no results yet. will try the other connections later today.
Did you ever get this solved? I’m having a similar issue and am now going on 3 weeks of my X1C being bricked. Under warranty they’ve had me replace both toolhead boards, the USB C cable and the AP board and it still isn’t working right.
Did you have any issues installing firmware after the AP board install? They told me that the boards don’t come with firmware on them, which is why they show all zeros in the firmware version, however I’m not sure if they meant the AP board doesn’t have firmware or the 2 toolhead boards don’t come with firmware, since I have now replaced all 3 boards. I’m assuming they meant toolhead boards since the new AP board boots up. Seems very suspicious that one of the new boards would be messed up, so I’m suspecting I have a bad connection in the toolhead somewhere. Thanks
After installing the ap board and it doing nothing, I contacted bambu again and they let me know I had to send them the printer sn and the ap board sn. They had to activate it on their end.These things are that locked down.
This is what I sent them after finding the info in the wiki.
Me
I have included a picture of the qr code on the new AP board and the qr code on the printers frame because of.
When the AP board is replaced, the step of binding the machine should be skipped when it is turned on for the first time;
After confirming that the replacement is completed, the printer SN needs to be replaced. So please contact the service team and provide both the new SN and the old SN to complete the SN replacement. (Begins with 00M or 00W)
Them
Hi there,
I have swapped them, please reboot the printer, skip setup, and download the latest firmware. Then you can bind the printer as normal
Me
How can I update the firmware? I’ve included a picture of what I see on my end. I skipped the binding process, it calibrated and then went to the home screen. When I click the firmware tab I see this.
Hi there,
very strange, it should not have even completed calibration without firmware. Please reboot, bind the printer, then go to the printer settings and see if you can update again https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/firmware-upgradin
Me
I had to connect to a Hotspot. After the firmware update, I no longer needed the Hotspot and normal wifi worked. I’ve read that it has to do with routers that automatically switch between 2.4ghz and 5ghz. I was able to set the Hotspot to 2.4ghz but my house wifi is wifi6. This whole experience has been pretty rough. I have alot of personal hours into troubleshooting just to get a new printer to print. Is there some sort of compensation in the form of a discount code on maintenance parts or something? I never even received the $50 off ams code. And I am subscribed because I got the filament code
Them
Hi there,
Indeed auto wifi switching can be an issue, which is why we recommend having a dedicated 2.4g SSID.
Keep in mind that this was a tiny portion of the actual back and forth it took. I replaced the power supply before this. And I got 1 response per week day. Couldnt use mg brand new printer for like a month
