The “System Preset” is the same between the X and P series as they are the same motion and extrusion system. This is why all of the presets are labeled @BB X1C
The only difference between them is in the “Printer settings” which has the different nozzle selections (stainless vs hardened), first layer scan and different start and end gcode.
If you load in a .3mf and it’s set to the wrong printer, just change the printer in the drop down and the Printer settings will all adjust. When sending a print to a printer in Bambu Studio there will be a notification if the wrong printer is selected.
FWIW, I saw what you describe with the exception of the alarm part. I got no message.
That was the reason I downloaded the file. Since the OP is new to the printer I wanted to see if there were any messages.
I started a new project, imported the 3MF file and this is all the way to next step being to click send.
The send window properly shows my printer but the Bambu Studio main window still reflects an X1C.
No flags/alerts at all
I sliced it as it was presented. Bambu X1C
But you all know these printers and their differences way more than me.
But does the OP do the steps. I just wanted to see what was happening when the OP brings the file to Studio.
Just thinking with all the too wet, too dirty comments, what was OP seeing in Studio
What happens if OP clicks CONFIRM?
One thing that really impressed me when I got into this was how incredibly helpful the community is. I think that we all (clearly) inherently have some traits in common as makers, one of them apparently being the want to make sure others can succeed too.
So from what I can tell I had all the right boxes checked before I sent it to the printer. I do think I remember seeing that pop up though about generating G-Code. I just clicked past and probably should have given that more thought. When I get home I’ll take the time to sit down & read through all of the replies to make sure I double & check everything off.
I figured I would see if there was an easier print that laid the boxes down & found one. When I import it into the slicer though & go to preview I can cleary see it is basically a solid box. I read through the comments & saw some say change the bottom layer to 0. I did this and it didn’t change anything. Deep breathe…ok what might I be missing now? Also it appears it’s designed for a 0.2 Nozzle which I do have. Can I use the 0.4 nozzle though?
I am literally in the process of printing out my dry-pods as well for my new P1S. I used this model without any issues using HATCHBOX PLA (I’m not using Bambu PLA because they haven’t shipped it yet – another story).
and I am using the trays from this one:
I guess a few more searches could have gotten me a complete set, but there is so much on MakerWorld!
Results: the first model printed great, no issues, very clean. If you still have problems with the taller “cans”, maybe give that first model a try.
I can’t quite remember it yet but the solid box, bottom layer zero business is connected to the process that gives you a box that is a mesh so air can flow through. If you’ve watched the printer make a model, it will lay down a solid surface first layer then it wil start laying down the mesh infill. The mesh in the desiccant boxes is created by deleting that solid outer wall. I made these boxes, I just need to recall which settings are changed to expose the mesh. He really does two things because he increases the infill density significantly, and he does away with the solid outer wall
Scroll through this guys Spillproof Desiccant boxes as these are the ones that many people use. He has several versions of the model that are to address two different types of hygrometers and where on a given box you want to place the hygrometer.
I think if you download the 3MF file you want, set whatever colors then slice it should render a mesh box Spillproof Desiccant Box
I printed these exact boxes yesterday and they look solid in the Prepare tab but once sliced show as mesh and printed a mesh box just fine.
Just download the 3MF file.
If you don’t understand what is going on about the various round hygrometers, shoot me a message and I’ll explain.
Hello, I had this same issue and I was able to fix it with some IPA and a paper towel. Another thing that helped was increasing the bed temperature to 65 or 70 degrees if you are in a cold environment.
Isn’t this rather excessive? I wipe my plates off with a microfiber cloth prior to each print, but beyond that, nothing much. But then I don’t goop my plates up with glues and alcohols either.
I’ve abandoned using the textured Bambu PEI and use the smoth side of the Bambu dual plate (smooth PEI on one side/dark grey and standard gold textured on the other side.
Hose down smooth side with this stuff
I was cleaning the plate every other print but I’m now at about every 5th print.
Dry with a paper towel as they are right next to the cleaner, sink and scrubber
Hey I wanted to check back in & say thank you to all of you that offered suggestions & feedback. I ultimately ended up giving up on that file & printed a 2nd version I found. It’s went perfect. Since my original post I’ve printed a few dozen different files & have only encountered 1 other issue. I learned a poop chute lesson. It clogged & knocked my extruder cover off. When I restarted it messed up my X/Y position & shifted my print.
My next question is something I keep seeing & I’ve been to afraid of printing & wasting filament. The files have all been larger in size. I keep this file has floating regions. Please reorient or enable supports. The designer usually all say in the notes that supports are not needed or to print it as the layout shows when you import. I’m not saying I don’t trust the designer but I am trying to understand the messages Bambu is giving me and why the designer says it’s ok. Trying to save a reprint. Thanks!
Just imagine it’s just a giant hot glue gun that can move around, so that it cannot print mid air without anything hold up the melting glue from dripping down.
To some extend, the over hang can be printed without much messy, but it is case by case specific… I only print functional part mostly and I don’t see a need to defy the gravity. So I usually change the design of the part for easy printing or easy CNC machining.
I say, trust your gut instead of trusting a random person from the internet. Mistake makes a man better.
