I have made 2 test (overhang and benchy):
My settings are:
Basically the main problems I have:
I use bambulab PETG-CF filament. Flow Dynamic K = 0.35
Could anyone help me?
There is a lot of info in this thread.
I’ve had issues with purple petg-cf when I’ve tried printing it with 0.08mm layer. Increasing layer to 0.16 helped in my case.
Hey there - I had to write to say thank you… I have been fighting PETG-CF, getting really bad prints and could not find good settings that would work. So, I came upon your post here and I basically copied all of your PETG-CF settings. All of a sudden, I’m getting the best prints I’ve ever gotten out of my P1S - WITH ANY FILAMENT! No kidding… the PETG-CF is coming out looking like it was manufactured at a plant somewhere. I was shocked at how good it worked. So just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to post those settings!!!
Just because we have fancy printers does not mean things work out of the box as advertised.
I calibrate all my filaments before use.
For fibre filaments I noticed that most are actually more forgiving than standard filament.
But they also come with their own drawbacks.
A 0.6 or larger nozzle and thick layers/walls for strong parts not always works as expected - thanks to the flow rates involved and the heater plate being too weak.
Infill and bridging benefit from longer anchor points/overlap settings.
But this requires a properly tuned flow rate to avoid build ups like those teeth marks over the walls caused by the top layer infill.
One has to keep in mind that those additives affect how the filament reacts.
Bridges for example love to sag and tuning the settings to avoid this as best as possible makes sure the following layers won’t peel.
It is a balance act between flow rate, cooling and speed.
Once calibrated though fibre filaments usually print quite flawless and ARE worth the time and few grams of filament used to tune them.
