Help with printing miniature

Thankyou very much! Really appreciate the help. Yes you are correct when I tried they just seemed to overlap on the print bed.

I will try the merge and see how I go but again, may be better just to print the base separately.

I actually tried to colour this model as well but that is a whole other topic. Most of the prints from makerworld I really liked because you could colour them easily but this one seemed difficult to colour. and then when I sliced it I think it was going to take more than 2 days (i did scale the model up) and around $10 in filament. I thought twice.

Here is an outcome! No base though at the moment

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Something happened to the top of the book as you can see so not sure about that. But the supports came off much easier this time. I will try again! I will also try with the merging of the base as well.

The filament was elegoo PLA basic but I have a bit of Bambu Lab PLA if that will work better.

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Thatā€™s definitely moving in the right direction! For the book, it looks like maybe the supports caused some sort of stair-step effect. If thatā€™s the case, then a slight rotation of the model could help, so that the support interface layer is altered at that spot.

Unfortunately, a lot of this is just trial and error until you find what works.

Also, donā€™t be afraid to use an X-acto knife or deburring tool to clean up edges.

Update time!

I merged the base with the model, tried a print with upside down with normal supports (geez those supports can be tough to crack)! but then tried with the base on the bottom with tree supports. Oh and the custom settings you provided.

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The result

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I know there is some cleanup to do but im pretty happy with how that turned out. The supports came off pretty well.

With something like this so you think there is a lot of value from using the 0.2mm nozzle? Do you think it will be night and day? Might have to give it a try but I have 3 more of these to do!

Thanks for your help so far really appreciate it.

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I have been printing figures slightly smaller than this with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.4mm nozzle. I have found the detail and quality with the 0.2mm is better, but it does take significantly longer to print. With that said, I stick with the 0.2mm. You will notice the most difference in the face, shoes, hair and hands.

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Thanks! I am going to give the 0.2 a try today.

Try slicing the model up into pieces and orient them nicely with tree supports and you should be good to go

@adikat2500 thanks for the updates. That looks really nice!

Regarding 0.2mm nozzle, check this video: https://youtu.be/UcGP_A0LZE4

He does side by side comparisons and you can judge for yourself.

I will say that I also have tried 0.2mm nozzle for small things and I just couldnā€™t notice a ton of difference. Iā€™m sure there are some cases where it can help, but with arachne walls the 0.4 nozzle can render really fine features. I really wanted it to be better, but I couldnā€™t see an improvement.

Iā€™m curious to see the result if you do the experiment.

BTW, if you havenā€™t done a nozzle swap on the P1S before, be sure to check that your part fan is connected properly afterwards. Go to the fan control on the P1 or in the device tab of the slicer. Force the fan to 100% and listen for it.

It is so very easy to dislodge that one fan connector, and you might not realize it until youā€™ve got really stringy prints!

Yeah might have to put a lid on my 0.2mm dreams for the time being as per below:

I thought I had a hotend ready to go but turns out I dont!

Doh! Thatā€™s really frustrating. I donā€™t blame you for not wanting to swap out those parts. Iā€™ve avoided that process, too.

Update time! Still no 0.2mm nozzle, so the following are the results of the above settings and the 0.4mm nozzle. I printed in the colours they are in the game itself.

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Im pretty happy with them. I know there is some touchup that I need to do (especially on the orange one) but cant wait to take them for a spin! and also to use 0.2mm nozzle.

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Awesome! As someone new to 3d printing miniatures, youā€™re already doing things with PLA that some said was impossible. Thanks for the update.

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