on my P1S using normal slicer settings and Bambu PLA.
The issue I am having is with supports. Using supports for the model becomes an issue when I try and take the supports off. I am not sure if the model is just too thin or too small (height is around 5.5 cm) but the supports just aren’t coming off easy, and usually takes the legs off etc.
I have tried:
using PETG as support interface and as all supports but the print did not adhere.
Rotating the model and having the legs up. This did only have the supports on the top of the body but then the supports on the head and book pages were very difficult to get off and have a good finish.
I am using a 0.4 nozzle but I do have the 0.20 nozzle. will this make a difference in success for getting the supports off?
I am also printing at 0.08mm layer height (high quality).
Let me save you some time and grief: Forget it. This model was designed for resin printing, and you’re asking far more of FDM technology than it’s capable of delivering. Someone here managed decent details with a 0.20mm nozzle, but even then, it didn’t come close to the details this model requires.
Put simply, this is not what FDM printers are meant for.
That said, if you’re determined to try (and I respect determination ), here’s what you’ll need to do. Fair warning: these are Ninja-level skills. Each step is practically a tutorial on its own, so let me know if you need details.
Segment the model: Cut it into pieces along natural boundaries (head, waist, knees, etc.) using the slicer’s dowel or plug feature. Assemble the pieces later with glue. This lets you tackle one part at a time, and the seams can be hidden within the model’s design.
Optimize orientation: Print each segment in a way that minimizes supports. This requires visualizing how gravity and overhangs will affect each part. Trial and error is unavoidable here, so patience will be key.
Use advanced supports: Create assemblies to suspend the model so supports can reach all critical points. Tree supports are likely your best bet for something this intricate.
If you’re still determined to try this, I wish you luck. Just don’t say you weren’t warned. Let me know if you want a deeper dive into any of these techniques.
I played with cheap SLA printer before, the resolution was super but still it was hit and miss. It’s not worth to spend time with unless you are into small toy figure or jewelry casting, or have a ton of cash you can throw at the resin printer like Mimaki in the link above.
Hi! No it remained at 0.08mm. For that pint, i tried laying the print on its back facing upwards, so that the supports would be on the back but it did not work.
Thanks mate. I just see others doing it on Youtube and the like but those models seem top be bulkier so I think that seems to be the difference.
I will try and play around with segmenting the model that could potentially work. There is also a base as well and I tried combining those so I could print them as one but did not have success in the slicer.
Sometimes it’s all about one motivated person to make a breakthrough. If you do succeed please share your results with the community here so we can all benefit from your efforts. Either way, Good luck.
edit: I forgot to mention I used “simplify model” decimation to reduce the model to 25,880 triangles. The 1.7 million triangles in the original mesh is not needed when printing at this scale. It doesn’t hurt to keep all the triangles but it slows down the slicer, and it will be particularly painful if you have multiple models on a plate.
I will definitely give this a try thankyou!! Do you think these settings will translate to a 0.2mm nozzle as well?
I was going to ask as well elsewhere but will post here. If you found the file then you will know that it also includes a stand that you print separately and then i guess glue together. I tried to combine these in the slicer to make it simpler but could not do so. Do you know of any way to do this?
Question, can I combine the two in the slicer, essentially meshing them together and therefore cutting out the glueing them together part and printing it all as one? I would need to line them up of course but seeing if this can done in the slicing sotfware or if i need to get another software to do this.
I did have a look at the assemble feature but could not seem to make it work.
Yes the settings should work with 0.2mm nozzle as well.
What trouble did you have in joining the base to the model?
I guess you had the problem where the models just kind of… overlap each other, right? And if you try to move the figure up the Z axis, it just drops back down to the print bed?
You have to merge the models into a single assembly by right click → merge. It’s easiest to do in the object list
After you merge them, the individual parts won’t drop to the bed anymore. The assembly as a whole will, but the individual parts can be moved up/down relative to each other.
But now you have a new problem. Supporting this model is more difficult.
You can experiment with different orientations and support settings, but it’s going to be pretty difficult.
Tree supports might work. You could try something like this:
), here’s what you’ll need to do. Fair warning: these are Ninja-level skills. Each step is practically a tutorial on its own, so let me know if you need details.
Let me know if you want a deeper dive into any of these techniques.
