Homing Z Axis Failure - Build Plate?

I suddenly get the error that homing z axis failed. It happens after clean nozzle.

I had an earlier print and touched nothing between that print and trying now, except very lightly sweeping out a few left-over bits from the first print. There are no visible filaments parts anywhere I can see.

Error message says The build plate may not be properly placed. But I never moved it.It is locked in.

Any ideas on how this can happen and if there is a solution beyond shipping it back? I’ve had the P1S for a few weeks.

Is it hard to remove the build plate? I have minimal arm strength.

And re-calibration failed.

Thanks.

A large portion of the time the z homing error is because a squiggle of filament (commonly known as “poop”) has landed somewhere it shouldn’t be. Check around the 3 lead screws where they attach to the bed and also at the bottom. About the build plate it’s held on by magnets so it’s fairly easy to remove. Don’t ship it back, we can get you through this.

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Here are some photos of the screws. I see nothing on those screws and in those shafts holding rods. A bit of poop on the base, but otherwise ok.










It’s working now. I swept up the bottom of the printer, and removed and re-installed the build-plate. I find it hard to believe the plate was not in the right sitting, as it is difficult to remove and align back on. Anyway, so far so good.

Thanks.

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This guide makes plate alignment very easy.

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Yeah, it was just barely out of alignment. It probably moved when you took the previous print off the bed.

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[this is what I wrote before]
Realized that per Bambu’s recommendation, they were right. Turns out it must have been pushed off when i took a spatula and hammer to remove the printed object. So i didn’t contact by hand, but my tools.
Whew!

Thanks all.

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Take the plate out of the printer to remove stubborn prints. It will cool faster, you can work from all angles, and you will not risk damage to the bed or z screws.

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Is using a spatula safe wish a hammer?

And cooler plate whelp? I thought it was the opposite.

The best way is to wait for it to cool. Most filaments like PLA and PETG will generally just release themselves once cool enough. Other filaments can stick quite good, even too good so you use a release layer of glue.

The heat of the bed keeps the filament ‘stuck’ for the printing process, cooling generally releases it. Plus you can use the flexibility of the plate to simply flex and pop the print off in most cases once completely cool and this will avoid any flex blemishes to the finish of the bottom layer.

I suppose a plastic spatula with a hammer is safe but seems a bit archaic. If it can’t be flexed off or grabbed to just pull it off by hand then I get out the bambu style scraper with single sided blade and carefully remove remaining, especially calibration and purge lines.

+can that scraper be printed, or do I have to buy it?

You can print it, right from the printer menu usually, but I went for a slightly different design:

And just to be clear, once the plate cools to 40C or so I will take it off, outside the printer. Then flex it to pop the print off, works for most non-tiny prints. Then use the scraper GENTLY to get the purge and calibration lines.

Then if the plate is due for its daily washing I wash it with hot water and dish soap, otherwise i just wipe it down with a clean microfiber cloth and put it back in the machine. I do it all outside because the Z axis lead screws make it easy to pick up grease and spread it around when working inside the printer.

so the scraper is 1 piece, 1 material?

It’s one material but multiple pieces. And requires screws and the blade that should have came with your printer extras (should be labeled as such).

The particular one I linked is multi-color but I believe there is a single color version if not it’s not that hard to adjust in bambu studio.

The metal scraper blade and mounting screws came with my X1C, you have to print the handle.
I don’t use it to remove prints, there is too much risk of damaging a plate.

I tried printing several different scrapers, using several materials. None were very sharp and the edge does not last long.

What I have found works best are plastic razor blades. Shop around, many different packages are available and they can be very inexpensive. Get a set with several handles, you will find many other uses for them. They work great for cleaning up dried paint, caulking, removing gaskets, scraping pots and cooktops. They are sharp to get under the edge of a print, will not damage plate, and last quite a long time.
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■■■■, got another error. This time , an external disturbance was detected on sensor 2.The heat may have touched something outside the heat bed.

In trying to remove a printing, it flew back left, out of sight. I take it that’s the issue. It was about an inch by 1/2 by 1/2. How do I gain access to the back left of the printer?

Actually found it. It is near or at the floor and a bit left of the back screw. How do I gain access? Take out a back panel? Is that hard to do?

You have to remove quite a few screws to take the back panel off. I would unplug it and see if you can fish it out from the front. Just be careful, there’s a lot of electronics behind those panels.

Piece of cardboard inserted vertically on the right side of the slot, to serve as a stop, then tip the printer to the right and hope the scrap will fall against the cardboard?

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I got my fingers on the edge of the printing piece but couldn’t grasp it. I moved it to the side for now. It’s working, for now.

but will get help for the tilting of the printer and/or screws taken out.

Hopefully this is the end of snaffus and I can relax. :wink:

Thanks.

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Also, a vacuum cleaner with hose and crevice nozzle might suck out the scrap.

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