Try the engineering build plate instead and see what that does. it should say on the plate what you can use it for. Also make sure the plate is in correctly and not riding on top of the guide rails in the back.
Check that the build plate is placed properly and that there is nothing impeding the Z-axis movement on top. Check especially the rear Z-axis screw drive since sometimes some of the purge material gets lodged in there on top. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/hmscode/0300_0D00_0001_0003
As @Panamon_Creel mentioned, check the build plate’s correct positioning following the wiki.
If the error persists, check if the build plate is in proper condition. These error codes are often associated with skewed plates.
You can also confirm it using another builds plate, as @EdStreet refers.
From the description, it seems an issue is with the filament or spool, which somehow induces a bug in the printer. That is odd, and I can’t see any plausible cause. Thus, I advise you to do some tests to validate your hypothesis, specifically to confirm if the issue relates to a specific spool, brand and material (BL ABS) or material (ABS):
If you have another BL ABS spool, you can repeat the process with it and assess the results;
If you have a third-party ABS sample or spool, you can repeat the process with it and assess the results;
Another test, with more risks and fewer certainties, is to jam the spool RFID tag temporarily and set it as third-party ABS; this is not a by-the-book solution, and you should only do it if it is conformable. It can be an option if you only have a single ABS spool.
If you confirm that the issue relates to a spool or a material, you should contact BL and request support.
ABS uses a higher build plate temperature then the other materials so you may have something that moves out of place with those higher temps like bubbles on the build plate table
JayZay, I watched that video from the other video that you shared.
I had added this thing to my printer and then removed it yesterday. It was a pain to install and remove. I wonder if it could have aused a fault with Forse Sensor 1?
It can be the cause; I cannot be precise as I never tested it. But it is a good indicator if things change after installing or removing it. On the other hand, it seems unlikely as the sensor works at low temperatures.
Let me know about the conclusions from the above procedures. I suggest opening a trouble ticket with BL, as you may have the same faulty hardware. If, meanwhile, you found a solution, you cancel it.
I am curious if you ever found a solution, I am now also having the exact same issue. Prints fine with PLA etc, but ABS will not home Z axis, doesn’t even reach the hotend when homing. I can literally change the part from ABS to PLA and it works fine. Definitely not the build plate being installed correctly as I don’t even have to remove it to make it work from ABS to PLA. Thats using the PEI plate and it clearly states for ABS and have used it in the past for it just a few days ago so something has changed and its driving me crazy trying to find it.
I don’t completely have an answer for you. It was a strange situation.
I ordered all of the parts to replace Force sensor number one. That was the sensor that I was getting all of the errors on when trying to print ABS.
One of my neighbors works in the 3D printing lab at the Mayo Clinic. When he came over to help me do the repairs, he noticed that one of the leveling nuts under the build plate by force sensor 1 was tightened all the way. He loosened it and I have not had a problem since.
Nothing makes sense.
But the one thing that Bambu technical support told me to do was to replace the signal cable from the heat bed to the motherboard. We ended up not even doing that.
that is interesting, I know for a fact the 3 nuts on the bottom of my build plate are all tight. I just checked them last night when trying to figure the problem out. Now that makes me wonder. I would assume they should be tight so as not to let anything fall apart, Hmmmm…
The plate does not actually level itself. It floats on top of three stiff springs. Turning the nut lets you adjust the plane of the plate to maintain an equal distance from the tip of the nozzle in all positions. The nuts should never be tightened until they stop turning. If they have been, you should re-tram the bed, because it is surely out of “level”. Once you have manually trammed the bed, the Automatic Bed Leveling will make small changes in z-height to attempt to compensate for any remaining differences in “level”.