Hi all,
I guess I´m not the first one facing this issue, but I havn’t found anything about it right now. What could cause this issue?
X1C - Printer, Bambu PLA, 0.2 Standard Profile
Thanks upfront to everyone.
Kind regards, Flo
Is the filament dry? It may have absorbed too much moisture and need to be dried.
Do you think the spool can be dry on the first half and too wet on the inside? It was brandnew from Bambu and printed well till this happend. Stored at the AMS since unpacking and AMS says everything is dry. 
Drying it is easy enough and worth the time to be certain. If you don’t have a dryer the X1C can do the job.The procedure is here, a filament box works well as a cover.
Also, you might get a smoother bottom in the box with a different Sparse infill or more Top shell layers. The Grid infill makes bumps when it crosses itself on the same layer. Rectilinear or Gyroid might work better.
1 Like
While it seems unlikely the second half of the spool is too wet, it is possible even with a brand new spool from any manufacturer. If I have the time, I throw all new spools on the dryer for a few hours when received…
That being said, I recommend trying Ikraus’s suggestions.
And sometimes a print just fails… Check the nozzle, make sure it’s clear/clean and try a quick and simple print (like a filament sample watch), see how that works out…
Have you tried slowing down the outer wall speed? Sometimes setting that to 100 or even 50 will help.
I was at work while your suggestions came in, I even could not wait till that and tried what first came in my mind => try again with a different filament which was in the AMS.
So I started remotely the printer at home with a Bambu green instead of the bronze which was sitting next to the “half wet” spool => see picture, went very well - for my understanding of quality (coming from the beginning of 3D printing - prusa i2…). Interesting fact, there are two lines which you can feel, one was the runout of the spool, but im curious what caused the second layer shift 
I assume the change in the green color (lower line) is the spool change, but why could there be a second shift?
Greetz from Austria
It looks like the lower line is lined up with the cutout section near the right side of the box. Which is usually due to a change (speed, temp, flow, etc…). After slicing the project go through the “Color Schemes” dropdowns. One of them likely lines up with the start of the cutout section. Depending on which one is the cause the solution may vary.
The upper line could just be a random error, or the filament runout. While I have no data, it feels like I get most of my layer shifts when filament runs out, or I pause a print. But sometimes they just happen.
Looking at the second picture of the bronze box, does the fuzzy walls also line up with the cutout on the ride side of the box?
1 Like
oh yes, also on the bronze box, it lines up with the cutout, did not noticed that before. regarding color schemes…checked all of them, no different color noticeable in the slicer before an after the cutout, seems to be a really thin line between good and bad 
Hopefully someone with more 3d printing experience will see and respond, but since it lines up with the cutout, it seems like speed or temp is the next thing to look at.
found the solution: putting down the max. volume speed from 21mm^3/s Bambu Standard to 18mm^3/s solved all issues. Maybe Bambu is little bit optimistic about their filament.
1 Like
Interesting, glad you found the solution.
But: IS IT the solution ?
A low max flow rate results in lower max speeds and a change in how the slicer handles the predictive flow rate settings to create the best possible results…
It does however also nicely mask other issues and fixing them could allow for a much higher overall print speed.
For the max flow rate there is good test models available, even here in the forum.
Reduce their result by 5 to 10% and you should be golden for most things if all is properly calibrated.
If speed is NOT everything for you and you won’t mid too much if a big print takes a bit longer than there is nothing to worry about or to improve in the settings.
But if you are like so many users these day and try to break a speed record with every print you might want to consider doing a full calibration for every new filament you put it.
As you already noticed - not all defaults Bambu provides bring the best possible result out of the box…
There is a reason we are made so happy to provide our print profiles and all with our models 
This topic was automatically closed 2 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.