I will be starting my first long printing project with P1S today. Yesterday I did filament calibrations. I also wanted to do a tolerance test. As it was very late at night and ı was to lazy to design a new one at that time I wanted to try the one in OrcaSlicer. Its ranges were to wide and I could not find the option to customize. so I tried one from MV. Even 0.1 came loose with a little poke.
This model is for print in place tolerance. What i usually do is separate part tolerances ie pegs fitting into slots or frame fitting on slot. There is a small difference between print in place and separate part tolerances. In my experience print in place tolerance allows a tad smaller gaps.
What I was doing with separate part tolerance value, (In fusion 360) If both part will be printed include this value into the dimensions of both parts (double), if printed part will bi fitted to an existing object, only add the value once.
With your experience with BL, should treat that 0.1 value i got with MV model the same way i was using or should I take 0.15 or 0.2. If I will have time between printing large parts I will try to design my own and print.
Before the tolerance test did you dry and calibrate the filament? If you want to reach low tolerances then I think this is a must, you seem like you have your ducks in order though so I imagine you are doing this.
Just to reinforce that statement, you’re doing basically the same thing I do and I’ve had good luck. I only use one tolerance though for say press fit of one printed part into another printed part, I wouldn’t double it but that just depends on the required result, it will take some prototyping and testing.
0.1 and 0.15 is more than enough. I normally prefer tight fith for regular joint but it cause problems with gears, screws etc. That’s why i was including the tolerance to both parts. This will the first time i will be printing them with P1S. As the printer is printing the large parts until Sunday i will not be able to test any prototypes until then. If i can get it right from the get go i will not need to re-adjust the models.
It’s a noble goal but one would need to provide very clear examples to get proper guidance on certain aspects. Unless of course I were similar to elmo musk in that I know more than anyone on the face of the planet about mfg, but alas, I am not elmo.
I did however recently complete a large project that required managing such tolerances and I can say that not only did I not get it right the first time, I was lucky to get it right the tenth time, but I learned a heck of a lot. Like a really good way to add tolerance to a screw:
Create as normal, fillet the thread edge helix by 10% of the screws dia or so, then offset the thread faces by 1% of the screws dia or so and presto, a great way to manage thread tolerances. You didn’t ask for this but you mentioned screw so I included it =).
I had gone through similar struggles with my ender3 S1 Pro. I managed to find the sweet spot for it and my models use to work well most of the time. But all this information is reset. I need to find that sweet spot for P1S now.
Do you use Fusion? Autodesk help recommended me to reduce both tread and screw part with the tolerance value but even that one was not enough for smaller parts.
Thx for the reply. I will try your 10% and 1 % trick.
Yes, I use fusion. Just FYI I used the 10% / 1% method for a M10 so it was nice and rounded out and a large screw at that so not pushing the limits of anything.
But the important part is the process, did not use built in tolerances and only did that method on the screw and not the nut that it threads into (both are printed in this case), this gave me quite a good outcome with PETG-HF, a very smooth screwing experience.
With smaller threads one may need to adjust these percentages a bit.
in my opinion this depends a great deal on the filament used, some filaments have more “shrinkage” than others, i tend to go between 0.15 to 0.20, also depending on the design itself