How fast/slow should I allow a large print to cool?

It took about 36 hours of printing with ASA inside my X1C’s heated chamber (well, by that I mean the chamber air temperature was indirectly heated to around 45C by a 3mm thick garolite build plate that was itself held at 120C for the duration of the print).
to generate this fairly large print:

The print was 250mm in diameter and roughly 128mm tall.

As you all know, by default the X1C cuts power to the build plate after a print finishes, causing the printed object’s temperature to more or less freefall. Consequently, on more than one such occasion I’ve seen a print warp or curl and/or maybe even some layers separate as a result of the rapid, uneven cooling.

My question is: are there any good rules of thumb on how quickly to allow the temperature to fall? If anyone here can recommend a cooling profile, I could “fire and forget” with some custom post-processing g-code to make it happen and thereby lower the temperature more gradually, uniformly, and reliably and not have to think about it. I did this one manually, but having to remember to drop the temperature every so often is a hassle better left to a machine.

I used the data in this wiki for time and temps. But i used a timer app on my phone to change temp over time by the handy app.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/print-finish-adv

I dont do this often but maybe once or twice a year.

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I read the link, but I don’t see that it offers any advice or recommendations about how slowly to reduce the chamber temperature after a print finishes. The only references I see are for how long to annneal various prints based on filament type and at what annealing temperature. Even in that case there’s no mention on how quickly to lower the temperature after annealing, so no way to reference that for even indirect guidance either.

Maybe you meant to post a different link?

Either that or the info is there and I’m somehow blind and not seeing it.

I guess this wiki satisfied my wants and needs for annealing at the time i was researching annealing my part.

Sorry the wiki was not the information you were seeking.

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Wow, that print looks impressive! I’ve also faced warping issues with large ASA prints on my X1C. I usually set a custom g-code to gradually lower the build plate temperature by around 10°C every 10-15 minutes to prevent rapid cooling. This way, the cooling process is more controlled, reducing the risk of warping or layer separation. Automating this with a cooling profile definitely saves the hassle of manual adjustments.

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I’ll take that as confirmation, because as a pure guess that’s roughly the rate that I had settled on as well, and at least so far nothing dire happened with that as the cool down pace.

Care to share that g-code and where exactly should it be placed? It would be of great help to me and others who are not so familiar with coding. Thx in advance.

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@MeghanSnow if you dont mind I would also really apreciate where to put the gcode line and how it has to be formulated. Thank you!

Use:

M190 S60   ; Set the heated bed to 60°C and wait for it to reach temperature

to set a lower temperature, and wait until that temperature is achieved, and use:

G4 S[time_in_seconds]

to add a 10-15 minute pause.

Create a stack of those commands to yield the desired temperature curve and then, I presume, put them into the “post-processing scripts” section of the slicer you’re using so that they execute right after the print finishes.

Brute force. Maybe there’s a more elegant way. A bit tedious to construct, but then afterward just copy-paste.

Because I was in a rush, it turns out I solved my problem by switching to a less warp-prone filament, but if I hadn’t, that’s what I would have done. :sunglasses:

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I thought that the max bed temp was 110C?

120c when a X1C is powered via 120v.

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Can you get the P1S bed temp any higher then 100 by powering with 120v?

No. The P series is limited to 100c.

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Thank you a lot! Propably I will also change for PETG HF instead of ASA and try my luck with that one.

As I build a pretts thin and high part I do not have any problems with warp but with not so nice looking last layers.