To answer your question. There is no definitive answer to that because of the variations in filament and models. To get the answer you’re looking for, you’ll have to print and measure and then calibrate.
Just by eyeballing your print I can tell that you’re asking a lot of the technology. Your thread teeth are finer than the extruded 0.08 can produce. At the very least, you’ll find that the threads will tear away in a short time. Most 3D Printed Threaded items have very course threads. Not that what your asking for can’t be done, it’s just not very reliable the finer thread pitch you go.
Getting back on topic, as you probably know, the thing that will kill any material in your application is vibration. Vibration is insidious because it works over time; it’s not a go/no-go situation, so you usually don’t know that something is about to fail until it does so catastrophically.
A couple of things I might suggest. First, master the art of filament calibration. In particular, you will want to master X-Y hole-compensation and X-Y contour compensation in the slicer.
A great place to start is to take your CAD model and design two parts to fit inside one another. I’d recommend starting with a simple round cylinder and a round hole that should fit inside one another. No threads, just the two objects. Then take your calipers and/or feeler gauge and start printing and measuring what you sent to the printer versus what you measured. From there, you can offset the X-Y compensation to allow for each filament’s nuances and shrinkage. In case you didn’t know, hole compensation applies to anything that is enclosed, and contour applies to anything on the outside. The best way to visualize this in your slicer is to create two identical models and then, in the ‘object’ menu, change the compensation for one of them. When you slice it, the visual differences will be obvious, and you won’t even have to print. But it will give you a good feel for how the slicer’s algorithm works.
Identical objects after slicing with hole and contour compensation of 2mm and -2mm applied to the object on the right. The native object is a 25.4 x 25.4 x 0.20 mm cube primitive with a negative cylinder applied to it. You can see how dramatic the affect is.
Once you’ve figured that part out, you’ll be able to maintain fine control over your model. The downside is that you have to do this for each filament and the compensation is stored in the project, not the filament itself.
Once you’ve dialed in the closest calibration you can and the output resembles your design - it will never be perfect - then you can return to your threaded design and try out different thread pitch and or different filaments.
One tip. I use PETG and PC almost exclusively when making threaded parts. PLA just isn’t up the task, it’s too soft and pliable. PC is my preferred use for threaded items. Both for threads I have designed into the model and also for threads that I tap into the model using a simple steel tap. PC machines well because of it’s stiffness and hardness. However, it can also be brittle and depending on the filament, may not withstand UV exposure well. PETG is softer but if you make the threads course enough, it won’t matter and it stands up well to outdoor use as PC does.
If you don’t already have it, print out the bambu filament cheat sheet. https://cdn1.bambulab.com/filament/Bambu-Filament-Guide-EN.pdf
