Mostly error code like camera is dirty and user error like print fail. 900 hrs
Take a look at the wiki, it will have most things covered there including getting started and first print:
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Thank you kindly, sorry to post in an unrelated thread.
I would highly recommend the Bambu Academy courses. You can check them out here: Bambu Academy. They cover everything from Bambu Studio, Bambu Handy, Filament, and the H2C printer. Should give you a good start with getting started with Bambu and 3D printing.
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This thread does give me hope. I love my H2c when it works and I have hope all the bugs will get worked out. its really good to hear so many with good machines.
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Bambu Academy should be a must. It should be required before someone’s allowed to post. lol
Oh, good… I didn’t want to post and make you feel bad! Or jinx myself… 
But yea chalk me up as another with a solid H2C wtih ~300 hours. It has to told me to clean the camera, and when a spool of badly wound BL filament got jammed up in AMS a couple times, and when the AMS HT valve died… lol. But the printer itself has been solid. (Knocking on some solid wood right now.)
If there’s one reservation I have so far it’s that the printer (with default slicer settings) might be pushing it in terms of the movement speeds it can achieve vs. what it can reliably sustain. I mean that both in terms of structural/part integrity and also print quality. A lot of this will come down to maintenance and other factors of course. But as moving parts degrade, as they definitely will here, the tolerances just can’t remain the same. And slowing down my prints has improved quality, although the first ~200 hours were very good with defaults (or maybe beginners luck!). I’m pretty sure the printer likes it also. 
-Max
This is what we want. ASA, ABS stink up machine and sometimes I don’t always clean right after. I want it detecting stuff for me, so reminding to clean camera is welcomed. These HMS codes are the good codes.
Coming from a long run of Creality machines, I was sold on Bambu with the X1c. I would have never gotten rid of that if I didn’t need to make room for H2c. I wanted H2d when it was released, but didn’t quite have the funds at the time. Very happy with H2c though. I don’t mind replacing parts until this gets figured out. I don’t really want to send it back to china, but will if needed.
I got another / different error earlier tonight… HMS_07FE-8100-0002-0001 The extruder switching action is abnormal. Please check whether there is something stuck in the toolhead.
I also got a reply from BB Support. They are going to swap out my unit. its going to be a few weeks before i get my new unit, but I’m feeling it will be worth it. With all the replies in this thread being so positive, I think its my best choice.
Thanks everyone, Cody
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I got my H2C right around Christmas and was getting great results until a couple of weeks ago when it started reporting error 0300-8018 113620 which is that the chamber heat circulation fan is either stopped or slow. Note that this is NOT the exhaust fan, this is the fan that circulates the heat from the chamber heater. I filed a ticket and they asked me to open the machine to check the fan and gave me the wiki page Replace H2 Series Right Inner Lining Assembly/ Chamber Heater Unit/ Chamber Heat Circulation Fan | Bambu Lab Wiki.
I realized later that maybe they had just meant for me to initially check whether the fan connector had disconnected from the controller board which wouldn’t have been nearly as bad - mostly a lot of screws to get the back cover off, but that would have been a different wiki page ( Replace H2D MC board | Bambu Lab Wiki ) and wasn’t the problem anyway so if I were to replace the fan I’d have ended up following the first link anyway.
This where things went downhill fast, that is a procedure comparable in complexity to the upgrade from a H2D to a H2C. I also realized that Bambu support had initially requested that I do a lot of disasssembly/reassembly just to check the fan before they wanted to send me the replacement, so I would have had to put it all back together to try it again before they’d send me the replacement fan and do it all over again. This procedure requires removing a lot of wiring harnesses and disconnecting power cables. I quickly convinced them to just send me the replacement fan. But things got really frustrating when I realized that this page was written for the H2D and wasn’t actually complete for the H2C, for example at step 7 part 2 where you are supposed to be able to remove the right inner lining piece, there are 3 screws in front of that piece that are not mentioned that are in the way from removing it, but once you figure that out you realize that the H2C’s nozzle rack is also in the way and should have been removed first. This is when I decided that this was a big ask and requested a replacement machine which is now in the works.
I’m totally fine and experienced with a lot of printer repairs, but if you get a chamber heat circulation fan error, unless you are super committed to a VERY deep repair procedure I’d recommend requesting a replacement unit right away. Even once the wiki is updated with the appropriate procedure for the H2C it’ll be a lot of effort.
On a side note, I googled the part number of the replacement fan and couldn’t find any official specs on the 4 wire version Bambu uses, but the specs on the 2 and 3 wire versions all had a max ambient temperature rating of 60C which is interesting because the chamber heat on the H2C goes up to 65C, so it looks like right away they’re driving this fan out of spec. I hope that works out and mine was a fluke.
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Wow… that’s a terrible procedure just to replace a fan. Lots of room for error. Not encouraging. I think you were right to request a replacement, though I’m sure packing that thing up, and setting up a new one again, is going to be a pain.
Do you have any rough guesstimate on number of hours with the heater on?
-Max
Here’s the current state of the machine, note that I never got deep enough to even see the fan I’d be replacing since I stopped when I realized the nozzle rack would have to come out. I’d have to remove that black plastic section on the left which contains the vent fan, the louver mechanism, the chamber heater and the heat circulation fan:
I noticed the LCD was making some joke about the number of print hours but I don’t remember anymore how many it was.
I did ask about how I’d return this printer, at first they asked me to put it back in “original condition” and I said that wasn’t reasonable, so we’ve agreed that I can do a “rough reassembly” which I’m taking to mean don’t worry about wires or all the screws, just get the thing back together enough for it to fit in the box and the AMS inside it. Nothing besides one cable clip is actually broken, with enough patience and proper documentation the machine should be able to be brought back to working condition though I’m sure it never will. I did offer that after they sent me a working machine I would be willing to hold on to this one and keep working on it and provide them with validation and additional notes on this and any other repair procedures, but they said they’ve got their own people for that so I guess they’ll pay to ship it back.
The machine was awesome when it was working, I was very impressed with little refinements over the X1C that aren’t even mentioned in the comparisons. I very much look forward to getting the replacement and enjoying printing again. I will be a bit nervous about that fan failing in the future.
Some notes, like I mentioned I am actually pretty comfortable with performing repairs and thought I was organized enough, but to do this level of repair on this machine you’ve REALLY got to up your organization. I thought laying out the screws the way I took them out was going to be enough, but there are too many screws close together for that to be enough - it’s amazing how fast you can forget if you just removed the screw from the left or right hole. There are also wires that plug into other wires with a connector, not all the wires are plugging into a board of some kind. I also took pictures along the way. But this machine would require a whole new level of documentation beyond that and I’ll know better if there is a next time. I might even add wire tags to every wire I pull out.
Here’s the layout of screws for just the back cover:
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Before I figured out that there were 3 undocumented screws in front of the shroud that get in the way of removing it as mentioned in Step 7 part two the shroud was clearly held up by something underneath (turned out to be a plastic hook) but that’s not mentioned on the wiki page, they just have a brief text description of move it this way then that. Realizing this wasn’t working and I didn’t want to snap anything I knew I needed help, so I asked them for a video call just so they could explain what motions were needed, but they don’t offer such help. I asked for a video to be added to the wiki page demonstrating that particular task, I hope they add one in the future.
I just used a pencil on the back cover the first time I removed it, a circle for self taping screws and a cross for metal screws 
The back screws are just the introductory level
Oh I know 
Good Luck
25252525
No errors with 0,4 nozzles yet, but a lot with 0,2 nozzles and Bambu standard profiles … layer adhesion issues, bed adhesion issues, speed issues… all are not happening with 0,4.
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Genuinely what do you do if you aren’t tech savvy and Bambu just offer placement parts? I mentioned this before but wondered if anyone had come across the situation.
Bambu can’t assume everyone has the time/patience/technical ability to disassemble their machines.
It’s like your car breaking and Ford just send you a crankshaft.
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That’s actually a tough question, maybe if you bought the printer from a vendor like Microcenter you could go back to them for repairs (maybe get a service agreement assuming they offer one). The real situation is that traditionally 3D printers were very maintenance/failure heavy devices so only people who were willing and able to deal with all that got them. Over the years many companies have tried to refine them into what I’ll call the toaster experience - you use them and just expect them to work. Bambu has been by far the most successful at providing toaster experience 3D printers, but stuff still happens, and they don’t have a network of repair shops all over the world to take them to. I don’t know if many of the cell phone repair places have started offering printer repairs, but they should when the market gets big enough. The other funny thing is that for people who are tech savvy the fact that companies will even let you open the case without voiding your warranty is kind of a breath of fresh air, but we’d still like an option of just getting it fixed when it turns out to be a very involved repair (see above) or maybe we just don’t feel like dealing with it. It’s also fair to say that when you’re marketing a printer as a toaster like experience that some of your customers would be dangerous if they picked up a screwdriver, and what we have now isn’t very appropriate for them. Bambu does include all the tools you’d need to do any repair (only 2 wrenches), maybe buying angled tweezers would be nice, and they do provide pretty decent instructions on their website for what to do, though those instructions will always be a work in progress and in the case of a brand new model like the H2C it isn’t always clear which related model instructions apply and which don’t (also see above). The down side is that all communication with Bambu is via their ticketing system and typical response time between messages on a ticket is 1 day at best, so a lot of patience is required. I do think that some kind of video call should be offered when the customer is doing their best but just needs to ask a question interactively, but they don’t offer this.
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It’s a very interesting situation, indeed. Apparently we can tear into this equipment before even contacting support, like the “diagnostic” procedure the Wiki had me do for an AMS HT error code, which involved disassembling the darn thing… lots of little wires and connectors just begging to be yanked out by a clumsy move (and that was nothing compared to the back of an H2). I mean sure, I can be delicate and smart about it, but it’s still a risk any time machines get worked on, even by experienced technicians in perfect settings. The room for error in some of these procedures is insanely high, as we’ve seen or heard about with Bambu’s own quality control issues.
Which brings up the (obvious) question – who’s responsible if the customer damages things while trying a warranty repair? Is this spelled out anywhere? And i gotta wonder how often that happens.
[ It’s funny how on one hand BL seems to want 3D printing to be so simple that one could just download random models from the Internet and print them with a phone app (like making fancy toast), and on the other hand the printer owners are expected to be master technicians to care for and fix their own equipment. I get that modeling and turning screws aren’t the same thing and, people have different interests, but I think there’s a lot of overlap in terms of personality and character required for both (like needing a lot of patience!). I also get that BL sells a lot of filament and spare parts this way. ]
-Max