I see that many non-Bambu Labs parts are becoming available. The heaters I’ve seen are rated at 48W. What are the OEM Bambu Labs rated at?
The factory hot end is 45W and the first out aftermarket hot ends V1 & V2 use the Bambu Lab OEM 45w heater.
The newer 2024 aftermarket hot ends coming out will be 60W
I think this is what you was asking about 
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Are those the BIQU Panda?
Yes what I heard is the Revo design will have the 48W optional kit and the CHT version will have the 60W option but not in stone yet.
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I wonder if folks will start making super killer hotends for the X1, like Slice Engineering. The machine has the native speed already built in. It looks like the top companies are already starting to build on that…With that Panda hotend you’ll be able to run such exotic nozzles as the Diamondback. With all this being essentially plug and play it is opening up modding to people who wouldn’t normally do it.
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E3D makes one. It’s an official collab so it should just work
Perhaps that link said 45W at the time but it says 48W now. Some of Bambu’s specs. for X1C even has it as only 40W, but I’m assuming that was early figures, bumped to 48W during development or perhaps early production. I measured all my Bambu and 3rd party hotends and spare heaters, with the rationale that if some of them would have been just 40W I’d discard them or reserve them for 0.2 nozzles, but they are all about 12 ohms, so 48W.
But with heater being a PTC, what does 48W mean IRL? It appears the rated power is at room temperature in this case but since the power decreases with temperature, what power do we really have around 220-230°C? I’ve been curious about this for some time so today I found out. I measured resistance on one of my spare heaters with a DVM, and temperature with another (that happened to come with a high temperature probe) while blasting it with a heat gun at various temperatures.
Interestingly enough, this heater happened to measure 12.0 ohms at room temperature, which means exactly 48W at a nominal 24V. My heaters do vary between 10.4 and 12.5 ohms at room temp and the equipment I used isn’t by many means professional so this was a total coincidence but even so, it tells us that our 48W heaters are only that powerful when we start to heat the nozzle. At working temperature it’s only about 30W.
While at it I mounted dual heaters on a bunch of V2 hotends so I’ll have a blast with them when the printer comes free in a couple of hours. That sounds like too much fun to miss out.
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Hi the_Raz
Ya the Bambu link has been updated to say 48W now.
I have also read other people finding the aftermarket heaters with different ohm specs in the packages.
I have run the 60 watt flat Tz3 heater and it helps but it can still have a temp error at times… 
I have a dual heater V2 setup also 
I just need time to test it out. I have been working on custom g-codes for AMS and support filaments
If it really is 48w, then 60w sounds like a rather anemic gain over baseline. Yet it seems able to get more than a paltry gain in flow rates, so what gives?
How many watts does the A1 hotend consume while printing? 40w, 60w, or something else? I tried to google the answer, but I didn’t find anything.
Unlike the X1, the A1 already has a quickchange nozzle.
Meanwhile I tried out the dual heater mod like others have posted about. I used 2x Bambu 48W heaters for 96W on V2 CHT hotends. I put the extra heater opposite of the thermistor, so the heaters are 90° from each other (the shape of the hotend makes it harder to put the extra heater opposite of the original one). Tried a speed test with 0.4 nozzle using Bambu PLA, it ran fine all the way to the 72 mm³/s limit. Then I did the same with the 0.6 nozzle, same thing. And finally the 0.8 nozzle as well, still no problems. Pretty cool.
I could confirm that if you try to go over 72 mm³/s or 500 mm/s, the printer will silently cap the speeds according to its limits and lower the other speed accordingly so not over/under extruding. So it might look like you’re doing 80 mm³/s or 600 mm/s but you are not. I could also confirm that Ludicrous mode does not change this. When I already ran at 72 mm³/s and activated Sport or Ludicrous mode, nothing changed - it just kept on printing at 72.
So 500 mm/s XY (F30000) and 30 mm/s E (F1800, which corresponds to 72 mm³/s regardless of nozzle) are the limits, enforced by the firmware.
BTW I tried running the same speed tower with unmodified OEM hotends (all sizes) and same filament, just for reference. The 0.4/0.6/0.8 could all do about 30 mm³/s before falling apart. I posted a separate thread about my findings for the 0.2 nozzle.
I haven’t tested stock hotends with dual heaters (yet). Actually I also never tried the V2 CHT hotends with just a normal single heater, lol. Perhaps later but I probably wont bother.
I’ll probably be using the 96W CHT 0.4 for all my printing for a while, with all and any filament profiles set to a max. flow of 72.
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Thank you for your very informative post. How is the print quality up there at those stratospheric flow rates?
The reason I ask is that I’ve come across posts where people report high flow or high speed printing of, say, a benchy, and it’s just a total joke when I see the print. The speedboat contest is a good example of this.
Of possible interest: Tom’s review of the Peopoly Magneto shows that it also uses dual heaters on its hotend.
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Looked nice, but those speed loops are hard to judge because they have a crazy layer height at 80% of nozzle size or so. I can add though that I tried a few multicolor prints that were completely buggered (not by the speed but incomplete flushing). Printed again with stock G-Code and 1.00 flow multiplier, but still a total mess of mixed colors. So I changed back to stock until I have time to delve into wtf that is about. CHT should flush just fine AFAIK. Apparently you can even cold pull it but I didn’t try that. I might try that while investigating the flush issue.
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On a random note, here’s a hack for speed towers, bumping temperature and cooling gradually with speed. Just put some variation of this in your Layer Change G-code:
; For Orca Max. VFR test
M104 S{220 + layer_z / 2} ; Hotend temperature 220°C + half of current height
M106 P2 S{layer_z * 5} ; Increase aux fan speed
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Any1 tried this? https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGJSwcD
70watt PTC heater 
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I wouldn’t try it;
The TH board for the X1 and P1 series is designed to supply power to the hotend heater up to 48W. If a higher wattage heater for the hotend is used, or an aftermaket hotend which draws more power is used, damage can occur to the AP Board, Type-C cable and TH board.
We strongly recommend avoiding a higher wattage heater as it can lead to damage which is not covered by warranty.
https:// wiki. bambulab .com /en/general/bambu-mods-to-avoid
I have a few of those, but the wires are too short despite them being for “Bambolab X1” (the misspelling might be on purpose to avoid trouble).
Bambu stock heaters have 90 mm wires and on my printer that’s just barely enough to reach the connector. The Trianglelab’s wires are only 60 mm, so there’s no way they can be used without some soldering.
Interesting, the image for the X1 on that URL above (https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGJSwcD) show the wires to be 100mm.
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