How often do you use adhesion glue?

Nope. Glass is fantastic! Been printing on it for 4+ years.

Im not using at all Glue, im using Hairs spray (i do it outside for vapor), it leaves a uniform and very fine veil.
Really its huge better than glue.
I put some every 10 prints after cleaning plate
Regards

I have to us glue almost everytime on either plate otherwise lots of first layer failures. Been that way since I got the printer. Yea, it sucks but I just deal with it rather than have failures.

never, no need… occasional clean with isopropyl. Usually have auto leveling off, flow control off etc… just AMS on.

Never use any glue stick, ~ 5’ C above its softening point, depending on print speed, wall thickess and enlcosed/not enclosed, bambu’s eng & high temp build plates allow to find good optimum that results in self release of parts (in case of ASA, PETG, PA and PC) after cooling down.

In case of sensitive (spars) organic support (speed up), we use thin layer of hairspray on flat plate, easy to clean and no waste of time.

I use the liquid glue by Bambu labs every time I print anything. Even when I do PLA. I’ve never had any adhesion issues doing this, if anything ever fails it’s due to my poor choice of settings; i.e. bad infill percentage or something that I have modified. I use the cold plate for printing PLA and the engineering plate for PETG. I also purchased a high temperature plate for any future PC printing projects. I’m currently researching substitutes for the Bambu liquid glue, not because of its pricing but because it takes long for me to receive it through the military postal system here. I’m also limited on the number of bottles of liquid glue that I can get shipped. The other reason I use the liquid is I can evenly distribute it with a small facial sponge.

In the days of my Ender 3 I was evangelical about never using anything, just get the settings right.Now I have an X1C, strangely, I give a very light spray of 3DLac (which I think is just expensive hair spray) before every print on a WhamBam PEX plate.
The most important thing is never, ever, to use PETG. It is the work of the devil and every roll should be buried with a wooden stake through it. :rofl:

I use 3DLac on a High Temperature plate.
If things don’t let go easily, I use a spray bottle of IPA to loosen the print (especially with flow calibration prints).
I wipe off the 3DLac with IPA every time with a soft cloth.

The answer is that it depends on what you are printing and what bed plate you are using. The adhesive has a two fold purpose. It acts to bond the filament to the plate and it acts as a molecular barrier so that the filament doesn’t bond too well to the plate. If it sticks too well then it may damage the PEI or other material layer. To be safe, I would use adhesive. How may times you can use the applied adhesive, it depends on how much you want to gamble. I have heard numbers up to 5 times. I went to three times and the first layer didn’t completely adhere to the plate. So when I use adhesive, I usually clean and reapply after two prints.

Lately I have been using the Wham Bam Flexi Build Plate. It works well without adhesive with PLA. I do wipe down the plate with isopropyl alcohol after each print. That doesn’t mean that you can always use this without adhesive. The manufacturer tells you to use adhesive when printing PETG. Otherwise you may damage the PEX layer. The best thing to do is follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and watch the first layer. If it isn’t sticking, cancel the print and either apply adhesive or clean and reapply.

That’s what I use, “White Rain”. I spray every other print or so. I’m using the cool plate for pla. For PETG I use the engineering plate and Elmer’s Glue Stick. I don’t find either to be inconvenient and the parts come out great.

I used to reapply it about every week after wash with I didn’t have other plates. Now I do and I only use the original flat plate for calibration.

I print almost exclusively in carbon reinforced filaments, and large prints (200g +). For PLA I use glue every second print, for PETG, nylon and ASA every print. Clean every 3rd cycle. Glass reinforced material glue every print. Playing with kevlar at the moment and getting variable results.

so far we’ve only been printing PLA on the (gold) textured PEI plate, we’ve never used any glue & the prints stick really well to the build plate as-is.

On the bambu X1C I print mainly ABS, ASA , PETG almost never use Glue .
Engineering plate for everything or hot plate
warm water and soap to clean the plates and depending on the part Brim
Only time i use glue when small part and do not want to add brim , or in a hurry to wash the plate and then Isopropyl and glue
Washing the plate only if i touched it with fingers or see that starts adhesion problems on average every 10 to 20 prints
Stopped using isopropyl as the two bottles i had was causing adhesion problems now have a good one , but still washing has better results for me

NĂŁo uso nunca.
SĂł foi preciso enquanto usava a plate original, todas as demais que adquiri nĂŁo sĂŁo necessĂĄrias.

PETG and PETG CF Textured PEI Plate. ABS the same. perfect sticking.
never used glue

Stephan

Have you washed your build plate with warm water and dish soap? You need to take care to not touch the build plate after you wash it as the oil from your hands can cause adhesion problems.

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+1 on what JonRaymond said above. Hands are likely the biggest adhesion culprit.

It wouldn’t hurt to try a 60C or 65C bed temp either. The P1P’s 65C default temp with the textured plate was a bit stickier than the 55C P1S profile.

But honestly, I don’t have issues with the 55C temps on the P1S’s profile, so like Jon mentioned wash the build plate and don’t touch the build area with your hands.

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I wash it whenever I start to have adhesion issues. I’ll often also wash it if I’m switching print materials, IE if I’ve been printing ABS parts and then want to print PLA parts as I find printing lots of ABS seems to leave a film on the build plate.

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I was exclusively using the textured plate for PLA but I had an adhesion issue with an articulating dragon (no supports or brim). I then switched to the cool plate, used glue to help REMOVE the print.
If you are using the cool plate a quick layer of glue does help the print come off.