Hello.
I’m waiting for Bambù ticket… But yet I got no answer yet.
So is there anyone that can help me?
I have to calibrate x y and z.
The external should be 10 mm.
The inner diameter should be 6.1 mm.
The total height should be 150 mm.
How can I calibrate them?
I’m using Pla from Prusament. 215°C.
Thanks
You can’t - at least not now. My own tests show it quite accurate, within 1% or so. I suggest doing a flow calibration (OrcaSlicer has test patterns.)
It’s incredible.
Unacceptable. Not from this printer.
Alaso becouse no one is answering my ticket.
For the x an y axis you could try to recalibrate the belts: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/belt-tension
EDIT: You can try this setting here too:
I don’t have this option.
Normally the Program ask to update when a new update is a viable or not?
This feature is included within the orca slicer which is a fork of the bambu studio:
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/tag/v1.5.0
You get more options for finetuning like the calibration prints there too:
EDIT: You should do this calibration tests for every new material you use and save the calibrated parameters at a new material preset:
Take an existing preset > change the parameters as needed > press save > use a suitable name for the new preset
You may want to print a cube of say 30 mm x-y-z and check the measurement. It should be pretty accurate. Make sure you have set the flow rate to 1 - do not use the LIDAR function a this time. You can also have a look here. The esteps, which are important to achieve dimensial accuracy as well should be (or are) set at correct value. This is what I haven taken from my X1 since a cube delivers almost prefect measurements.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flow
I did a test print.
Outer - Inner wall.
Precise wall enabled.
Which calibration test should have an impact on dimensions?
Thanks
I have found with small items and that style of caliper that changes in pressure on the adjustment wheel can cause significant changes in reading. Please try a larger item. I’ve made quite a few prints where exact dimensions matter, and the results have always been good.
ok, I did the test and these are the results:
cad dimentions 30x30x30 mm
no lidar, no auto compensation, flow ration 1, vase mode, layer height 0.2, line width all set to 0.4
X: 29.86
Y: 29.95
h: 29.73
wall: 0.40
Any idea?
Ok, that is pretty good, no ? the small deviations of .1 mm .2 mm are either mistakes when measuring or filament shrinkage . what is your flow rate now ? I would let go and accept this, especially when the wall shows 0.4 mm - I would call it shrinkage…
for me is an unaceptable result …
with my prusa I got 0.05 deviation from the cad…
here we have 0.15 in y and 0.25 on Z in 30 mm
I hope that some one from help desk will answer to my ticket and try to identify how to fix this
It’s 2 days that I’m waiting for their reply…
may I ask what kind of speed settings you are using? Maybe the Prusa had less deviation since it’s printing at much lower speeds I recon.
I suggest doing a flow calibration - the OrcaSlicer fork has test patterns for this. The other thing that comes to mind is that the filament you’re using may be underextruding at speed; you could run a max volumetric test too.
I’ll throw this in here. I had the same problem and I had done the “loosen the screws and move the carriage” routine here:
So I was pretty annoyed that I I still had a problem.
I was reading another post that said to do it again but move it FULLY to the stops and do it at least 12 or more times, so I tried that and it was much improved.
After I also did the full set of Calibrations several people here mentioned in OrcaSlicer I found it to be pretty darn good. My “parts don’t mate” problem is gone.
So give another try, I’m sure Support will tell you the same thing before they’ll discuss other options. BTW - They’re running pretty slow right now as they get new support people trained, so be patient.
One other thing - don’t run the carriage back and forth too fast, if you really push it fast the servos turn into generators and feed power backwards into the motherboard. You can tell you’re going too fast if you see the Bambu Labs Logo LEDs on the carriage start to light up, if it does, slow down. 
Good luck.
Someone speaking from experience there? 
Who me? 
Fortunately I’ve been an Electronic Tech since I was a kid and ran into this with my 1st 3D printer, it had a power LED on the main board.
I saw it and went 
and started laughing when I realized how many people were going to have problems when they got impatient, so fortunately, no.
But I’ve made up for it many other ways, trust me.
Hello. I’m back.
I checked the belt and I did few tests.
I think that the real pain for this printer are circles and holes. I printed a square and a circle togheter.
The square are almost perfect.
The circle is 0.2 smaller.
Any idea? If I change che xy compensation on the bambù studio will it change the general behavior or only for the circles?
Thanks
Well that’s looking loads better! 
There was a pretty long discussion of holes that if you have the time you might read, lots of good ideas and discussions in there including the XY Compensation. Here:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/why-ovals-and-not-circles
BTW - In the top picture of the circle (inside diameter) it looks like the calipers are not square in the hole, it may be perspective…
Measuring inside diameter can be tricky, be sure to measure at multiple points around the circle. Best practice is to mark the X and Y directions before pulling from the print plate.
But you’re definitely making progress. 3D printing teaches life skills - patience amongst others… LOL
Well done!
