How to fix these defects around the openings?

I have tried a ton of suggestions from Facebook and still have these defect lines on this ghost print.
It’s between the eyes and to the right of the eye.
This is the same on my X1C and P1P, So I am sure it’s a Slicer setting.
Using Hatchbox PLA. I’ve tried to rotate the model 45’, 90’ no change.
Tried Classic and Arcahne, no improvement
Change layer heights from .2 to .12, same defects
Changed Minimum print speed in Filament profile to 4, to 8, same.
Tried adding supports in the eye openings - still the same defect
Fans are at 100% also
What am I missing? Cut the print speeds in 1/2 maybe?
What am I missing? Thank you

There is some info that you didnt mention:
Is the filament calibrated (PA and FR)? Is it dry?

If you think that is the slicer, can you confirm what parameters differ from the stock preset (not including the ones you already mentioned)? It will be helpful if you share screenshots of the preview for the layer time, speed, or other that you feel is relevant.

Good morning!

Try to reduce the speed to 12 to 25mm/s for all walls and infill, in global settings. I think 25mm/s is a good value here. You can also use a modifier to adjust the speed only for the details. But here you would have to experiment a bit to get an even outer layer. Because with change of the speed possibly also the printed wall thickness changes (my observation).

I am still getting these line at that slower speed, that is crazy because this prints perfect on my Prusa Minis and I figured it was because of the slower speed…

Can I post the test file from my dropbox? Maybe a few people can look at what’s wrong and do a test print?
I’ve changed so many settings, it’s hard to keep track of what I’ve tried. I plan to got back to all defaults and go from there: Test file is here:

Thank you

  • The defect is happening around the top of the hole, worth checking overhang, bridge cooling settings. From the file you sent you already have some tunning. But may be the overhang percentages
  • as @JayZay suggested is the dynamic flow calibration(Pressure advance) and Flow calibration done
  • You can play a bit with infill /wall overlap default for X1C is 0.15% for prusa default is 0.10% but do not think that would be the issue from the sliced file you sent
  • not sure about 10% infill and type of infill - probably worth changing it
  • i can give it a go to print it, but the file you sent does not have geometry data only gcode, and can’t be sliced. If you want send a new file with geometry data will do
  • Compare the Prusa sliced file with the BS sliced file in the layer generation to see what is the difference in the preview around the layer where the defect happens

I also checked the shared file. But I couldn’t edit, so I am unsure of the causes.
My assessment wasn’t as thorough as Vladimir’s, but one thing that popped into my eyes was that the gaps weren’t filled.
To be sure, I would need the same file but sliced with the classic wall generator and detect thin walls option enabled.

Argh, here is the head for quick testing and can be editted.
It is the Zou3D Ghost - I’ve printed out about 15 of these so far.

Hi i did two prints , first one with your settings , but used my PLA calibration
second with my Pla calibration and make overhang printable option . Slightly better but both are successful and with out this artifact
Also my filament is dry
I noticed that pressure advance is different , now a few people coming for Friday night drinks and will be able to check in more details tomorrow. Cheers
It looks like fine tunning , and or dry filament i dry the PLA for 18 hours before i put it in the AMS


With Make overhang printable

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Von mir auch noch ein Beispiel.

Geänderte Einstellungen am Profil:

Druckbett-Typ: Engineering Plate 55°C (nicht wichtig)
Eigene Filamenteinstellungen, Filament gestern neu ausgepackt, nicht extra getrocknet.
Wandgenerator: Klassisch

alle Geschwindigkeiten: 25mm/s, Überbrückungen: 65mm/s, Verlangsamen bei Überhängen aus, siehe Bild:

Schichtdicke war 0.2mm.

Beste Grüße

From me also another example.

Changed settings on the profile:

Print bed type: Engineering Plate 55°C (not important)
Own filament settings, filament unpacked new yesterday, not dried extra.
Wall generator: Classic

all speeds: 25mm/s, bridges: 65mm/s, slow down on overhangs off, see picture:

Layer thickness was 0.2mm.

Best regards

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I used a 0.08mm layer, a classic wall generator and reduced the outer wall speed to 60mm/s. My filament is calibrated.
Note that the settings may be different if you use Orca.
There are still some minor defects, but I am unsure if the filament is completely dry (only dry it for a couple of hours) and I think there is still room to optime the cooling (orientation and fan speed).

It looks better than this, as the pictures were taken as close as possible, and the phone continuously jumped between lenses.


Thank you for helping.
I can’t find the “make overhang printable option” you show.
I am using the latest version of Bambu Slicer, I tried the search and still couldn’t find it.?

the option is available in Orca Slicer.

ahh yes i used orca slicer had it open in both BS and Orca, but both prints with Orca, and engineering plate at 50C, and Printed at full speed , actually with the slow down for the overhangs effective speed is around60mm/S around the eye

I love that option in some case solves a few overhang issues and some times helps for some bridges really nicely, some times is no good but easy to see if it helps

  • does not seem related to speed as far as not crazy high , check the speed model
  • It looks like your filament is not tunned perfectly for some reason or is a bit wet , as the problem happens around the overhang and the bridge here is what would suggest:
  • dry Filament if you have not done so , note that filament in the air for more than a few hours starts affecting prints
  • check the PA(K) calibration most likely
  • flow seems ok but may be worth checking it again
  • Print temperature might be a bit off suggest after the first two steps to print temp calibration tower
    We are using all different Brand Filament brands so these settings will be different i am using eSUN PLA+
  • try Orca with 'Make overhang printable" this improves such issues , but do not think that is the actual problem

For Orca

both orca and BS check Slowdown for overhangs if ticked

Her is one print on Prusa with Orca, with PETG it has been sitting 2-3 days already in a drier turned off which is not sealed at all with and a bit of silica, currently shows 32%Humidity inside, for my readers i accept a good humidity around 20%-22% - these are crappy so the real readings are around 22-28 and 10-15 . And the first 300mm-500mm filament probably close to air humidity 70% . So you can see the first 1/3 is worse and as it gets used the top is getting better. I kinda learned that once on my humidity sensors shows 30% will start showing in the print a bit , and above 35% i will not use the filament unless dry it for a few hours first