I’m new to 3d printing and currently looking for ways to improve the thickness of objects printed in spiral vase mode. I’m currently using the standard 0.4 nozzle.
Which settings in Bambu Studio should I have a look at?
Would a larger nozzle be helpful?
Can someone please give some hints and suggestions. thank you.
Yes you must mount a largest nozzle. I ordered a 0.8 nozzle to that : the result is amazing and with transparent filament is better.
On my Reprap printer (like prusa MK3) I have a 1mm nozzle to this effect.
With 0.4 nozzle, you can have a width of 0.44 or 0.48. You can try other preset to increase a little bit the width in the slicer
Hi Ortesse, thanks a lot for sharing your knowhow. I’ll try to tweak the settings and also order a larger nozzle.
You can increase the line width setting for outer wall. There doesn’t seem to be a limit on what you can set, but, the slicer won’t generate walls thicker than 0.9mm with that limit probably derived from a 0.4mm nozzle size.
Pushing line width limits isn’t going to produce the nicest prints the lines bulge out and up and if the model has tight corners the nozzle might hit the bulging part of the previous layer.
Make sure you have a sensible volumetric flow rate limit in the filament profile because wide lines make it easy to hit.
Of course a bigger nozzle will let you increase line width without pushing limits as far.
edit: Forgot to mention. If your model is small it takes little time to print a spiral layer and the “slow print down for better layer cooling” and layer times in the filament profile can really cut down the print speed, that said, some slowdown is likely required.
Thank you froboz for your hints. I’m currently using the Bambu lab PLA with standard profile.
Do you know if the Studio software provides help if the filament profile and other parameters are not set to useful values?
It will complain and not slice with some ridiculous values while it seems silently ignoring some others. Most of the settings have mouse over help text and some link to wiki pages.
Yes, either a bigger nozzle and/or increasing the “outer wall” thickness will do. Not sure at which point Bambu Studio will start to complain (if it does), but on other printers I successfully generated wall thicknesses twice the nominal nozzle diameter. E.g. 0.8 mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle. Just play around a bit where the sweet spot will be for you. Maxbe you want to load a cylinder into the slicer to do some first tests or so…
Thank you guys for you feedback and help. I’m now using a 0.6 nozzle and the stability in vase mode is much better now. I’ll further try to increase wall thickness via settings.
It’s a bit disappointing that BL Studio currently provides only one preset for 0.6 nozzles. As a noob I’m not feeling coinfident to tweak these settings all by myself.
Yes, and the standard profile isn’t optimal. Speed, layer… you should modify that in first and after you can ser other layer.
You can see that when you slice with 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle … 0.4 is faster than 0.6 and they are not sense (I have printers since 2015, it’s not a physical constraint.
At the moment, I optimized the 0.8 profile and do other layer preset. When I’m on the 0.6 I could share with you my preset to compare.
Also, you can observe that the presets are very low with standard (generic) filament. Ok, Bamlbu Lab Pla is good but generic PLA isn’t all so bad that bambu lab generic preset.
By exemple see volumetric filament preset on generic PLA.
And you must set temperature setting with others filament, because 220 can be too high and with a big nozzle the oozing or the dirty prints are more frequent with bad setting.
Thank you Ortesse for your feedback. Would be great if you can share your tweaked presets for 0.8 and 0.6 when you have any. I also opened a support ticket and hope Bambu Labs will provide better presets in a new version of Studio.
Dear all
I’m not an absoltuly beginner but there was an almost 2 years break with 3D printing.
I have sold all my old school “cheapy” printers like Creality and spend a lot of money for the new X1 carbon.
As in the past with the pruca slicer, it works also with the X1. Overextrusion to get bigger walls works perfecliy fine with this printer. As a dump I have just set all the values to 0.8 with a 0.4 nozzle and it works, what a luck. This printer has a lot of self control “good settings KI”. As usual set the heatbead with PLA to 50° and encrease the minimal temperature of PLA 15-20° higher then usual. I’m using a PLA with the defaults of 195-230 to 220 as minimum. Whit such values the PLA must be extremly smelted and hot and have a good flow. Just try with a a simple vase from xy. For me it works.
regards
I was thinking on this vase mode problem earlier and something came to me…
Now that there is a scarf joint which rolls up to the next layer, I think it would be possible to do vase mode with multiple walls
Does anyone know if this is being looked into - it would be quite an interesting approach
Several people have requested “vase mode” versions of my collapsible saber blades (for easier printing on older printers I guess). So I have been playing around with this.
The biggest problem (as stated with this thread) is wall width. My blades are designed to work with a 1mm thickness, but in vase mode I cannot get that type of width (at least in my limit experimentations). So I decided to alter the design a little. I placed a groove, 0.4mm wide and 0.6mm deep, at about 2mm intervals around my blades.
This causes the vase mode to go in and out as it is laying the walls, resulting in about a 1mm thickness (using a 0.4 nozzle). This has added strength to blade section and has increased light transmission (use “transparent” filament).
It actually uses more filament since it creates a brim for each section and prints each one individually with this method. This method also takes over twice as long to complete since each job has to be cleared before the next one can be started. (Vase mode uses 1.81oz of filament; Print in place uses 1.80oz of filament. Vase mode takes 7h57m, not counting down time between jobs; Print in place takes 4h4m and is done in a single job.)
All that being said, I am still really liking the results! If I am making blades to use with a light, I think this method is far superior to my normal printing method. Once I have it fully tested, I will likely add this as a print profile option to my sabers.
