You’re doing most of the right things… almost! You’re troubleshooting technique can use some help though. 
The first thing I might suggest is to NOT print an entire model after you’ve had one dissatisfactory print. In fact, before committing to any print that is either greater than one hour long or $2 in filament, I always clone the model and, using the cut tool, run test prints to verify that my settings are producing what I want.
By cutting down to smaller sections of the model, you want to maintain the orientation. This is important since gravity will impact filament droop. For that, unfortunately for a model like this, it means turning on supports to hold the model section in the same orientation as the full model. Once you’ve got a good testable section, clone it multiple times and then experiment with settings on each clone. This will save you a ton of time and filament because you can print multiple samples on a single pass. Think about it; if you had four experiments, that’s 15 minutes saved right off the bat, given that each print has a minimum of 5 minutes setup, leveling, and purging overhead. If you had 10 samples, that’s 45 minutes saved.
Examples I did from a recent print.
Ironically while I was reading your post, I had a print going on in the printer using the technique I referred to above. In my example, I was trying to do a quick print for a lamp knob I had just snapped off my desk lamp. Here’s an example of the overhead you save if you use this technique in testing.
I create a knob in CAD and wanted to test that the hole is correctly sized. So after I imported the object,
- I used the cut tool to cut my cloned model and make a 5mm height version and then further cut the diameter using a cylinder primitive with a 15mm radius as an assembly.
- After creating a centered assembly I then used the Boolean intersection tool to cut this into a 15mm by 5mm disk with my original hole in the middle.
- Then finally I cloned the new smaller model, into 4 units and changed the inner hole diameter using hole compensation on each sample.

Despite setting my hole to the measured diameter in CAD, I hadn’t yet dialed in X-Y hole compensation on this particular filament profile. This is why I was forced to use X-Y hole compensation to correct for filament shrinkage, resulting in a significant discrepancy from the actual measurement. In this case, the hole was off by 0.4mm. Here are the print-time savings.
Full model print 17m 5s – 3.13g of filament
4 Hole Samples printed simultaneously 12m 44s – 2.49g of filament
You can see that if I had tried to do this experiment 4 times with the original model, it would have cost me more than an hour of trial and error.
SPEED
To answer your original question, yes, you can go into the slicer and change the profile under the speed section. This would be the way to really dial in the optimum settings for your model. While that is a worthy effort for a model you plan on reprinting many times, it is likely not worth your time for a single model print.
Silent Mode(50%) speed – Quick way of determining of speed is your solution
I wasn’t sure from your post if you were referring to “Silent Mode,” but if not, here’s how to get into it. After you start your print, you go into the slicer and click on the speed icon and select “silent mode.” This will cut all print movements by 50 percent, thus doubling print time, but the advantage is that it’s quick and “one click.” You’ll want to be watchful, though, that the effect takes place, as the slicer software is very, very, and I mean very buggy. Often your click will not register if the printer is warming up or conducting some other function. It’s maddening, but keep an eye on your print speed. You can also do this from the front panel, which I often prefer because the confirmation feedback is faster, albeit not immediate if the printer is bed leveling.
Note: that if you changed speeds in your speed settings in your profile, it will cut those by 50% too. It’s an additive affect globally.

Now, if you find out that speed fixes your problem, then it might be worth going into the speed settings and fine-tuning individual speed parameters. However, if going into silent mode did not have an impact, then you saved yourself a lot of tuning time, and now you know the solution lies elsewhere, not with speed. Again, using samples will greatly speed up your trial and error.