Hey everyone,
i have a new issue.
The AMS says it is to wet inside the AMS. (5 on a scale from 1 to 5) but i never had an Problem with hydration in the room with the printer. And the Print was with a new Spool Filament wich i unpacked 5 minutes before the Print. I switched the nozzle one Day before. I ordered some gel to dehydrate the AMS and ibhope it will Work. im in Holiday the next 4 days maybe someone else Had the Same Problem.
i have to admit i let the AMS Most of its time Open. 
So much here. First, filament needs to be “dry” and the pat recommendation is to dry it before use. The Bambu wiki has some really good information on drying filament. Some filament types can behave really badly when they get “wet” as you’re seeing.
A 5 in the AMS is really bad. When you leave the door open the desiccant just hydrates itself using room air. With the door left open, you’re wasting the desiccant and you’d be better off without any since with the door open it’s basically the same thing.
Some people do open storage of filament and get away with it because they live in arid regions. Others have open storage catch up to them with failed prints, etc. So much depends on ambient humidity where you store your filament if it’s open storage.
Water absorption by filament is fairly slow. Leave it out for days, though, and it can start picking up enough water to start misbehaving.
Desiccant in the AMS won’t effectively dry your filament even when the door is properly closed. It will dry it but takes long, long times and isn’t practical or cost effective. However, put wet filament in the AMS and the desiccant will absorb enough water that it will become ineffective in fairly short order. You waste desiccant when you load wet filament in the AMS. What it’s for is to grab water that gets in when you open the lid to keep the filament from grabbing it.
With the AMS reading 5, it sounds like you may live in a humid location. If so, you need to up your filament game. Before putting new spools in service, you should dry them properly. They may arrive fairly dry but you don’t know how dry they are until you try to dry them.
You should look into proper filament storage. Some use bags. Some use pantry poly cereal boxes. The upshot is you need a dry environment to store filament so it doesn’t pick up water when it’s not in the AMS. And just my opinion but the AMS desiccant should be changed when it reads 3. That’s apparently a 30% humidity or thereabouts. Actually a bit high. 2 is much better.
Check the Bambu wiki on filament drying. Lots of good information.
Hi @MaikD,
The image shows a dump filament.
In this specific case, the desiccant is part of the solution. You must also dry your filament.
Regarding your room, air contains water, which, for human comfort, is way above filament ideal storing conditions.
Thx for the Help. What me Wonders is that i usw the Same room now over a year and never had auch Problems with Always the Same Filament from the Same Producer and i printed over 2.000 hours in the Last year. i will try to dry the Filament and the room.
The lot quality can be defective or just moisty in this case.
Drying the room may help, but dehumidifiers aim for human comfort levels so that it may be pointless (I do it anyway, but I have the printer in a basement). The AMS with desiccant and closed works quite well. Also, you can re-dry the silica beads when needed.
What @JayZay said about batches sure seems to be correct. It seems there are variations.
But over a year with different seasons ambient humidity will change too.
It could be you’re having things pile up / stars align to move your prints into being problematic.
Also, though, it’s maybe not necessary to try to dehumidify your room and it’s only partial anyway like Jay said. If you dehumidify enough for open filament storage to be good, you’ll have problems throwing big static shocks with everything you touch.
You may need a filament dryer to get back on track but in humid environments those don’t work so well. I just posted an air dryer that works and will help filament dryers dry filament consistently to as low of a water content as you want to go. There’s also a long thread on it - Filament Drying preliminary results.
These printers are pushing the envelope for speed and appearance of printed models and that seems to have made filament condition more critical too.
The Room is in my basement and my wife cleaned some weeks ago the room and i think she swept everything wet. Thats maybe one of the Problems. And the heat in the Last weeks. In my Company WE have an drying machine to dry complete rooms. Maybe i will give IT a try.
No need to go overboard. You are round-abouts 100km from my place, with roughly the same weather conditions. A cellar probably has more humidity than my office though.
Fresh rolls are not neccessarily dryed after manufacturing which may even involve water cooling. So do not expect fresh rolls to be dry. A standard filament dryer usually does the job for me. No need to go over board in our neck of the woods unless you are looking at engineering filaments.
As for the root cause of that high humidity, I really would not blame your wife. The AMS does a terrific job of keeping its insides dry for a while if it is closed and well stocked with fresh dessiccant. Otherwise, it only serves half its function.
Have a look here as to a set-up operating very well not too far from you. It also includes a link to the Bambu Filament Drying recommendations.
So im back home and i got my Hydrationlevel in the AMS von 5 to 2 but my prints still look like the Hotend ist clocked. But i switched the hot end 2 Weeks ago against a new one. And it worked with the new one perfect for one week. I still have a New Hotend with extruder here but i dont know. I startet printing something and not even the first Line printed well.
If I understand what you’re saying, changing the desiccant out in the AMS won’t dry the filament that’s in it on any kind of reasonable time scale.
It’s good to have it reduced — At least you won’t be hydrating your filament. But water leaves filament very slowly at room temperature. It’s why all filament dryers have heaters.
Having good desiccant in the AMS helps keep filament from picking up water in the AMS but it doesn’t dry it (it actually can but it’s extremely slow).
Clogging can happen for a large number of reasons at any time. So the hotend being new is no guarantee that it will stay clear for a while. Heat creep, filament burn, PTFE wear or just dirt travelling with the filament to the hotend can all lead to a clog. And of course overly out-of-tolerance filament will give similar underextrusion.
The following wiki entries may be helpful:
I think i will try 2 Thinks. I will order an Sunlu Filament dryer trying to dry my filament and i will check the Hotend etc if something is stuck or dirty. Its just it looks like that there doesnt come much Filament out. Or could it be that the think over the hotend (forgot the name at the moment :D) got a problem.
edit: the extruder. 
it is too over a year old with over 2070 hours running.
Getting a filament dryer is, in my personal experience, a good investment. There are some threads here on different experiences if you want to get a lot of different views and experiences. Here’s an example:
What is the 3d filament dryer you choose？ - Bambu Lab P1 Series - Bambu Lab Community Forum
Underextrusion is quite a common occurence. I’d start with a cold pull since the hotend needs to come out anyway before looking at the insides of the extruder. I had it a while ago that heat creep in BVOH led to a clogged nozzle that subsequently led to the extruder grinding away at the filament. That in turn clogged up the extruder teeth. Subsequent PETG then took some BVOH back into the nozzle leading to a merry go round of nozzle clogs (this time from burnt BVOH). A simple extruder teeth cleaning was all it took. But finding the issue was a real bugger…
Maik, how is your humidity where you will be drying the filament? If it generally runs above 40% that might be close to where dryers remove some but not “all” of the water. It will help but it’s important to monitor the RH in the drying chamber and ambient humidity since that will set how dry you can get your filament in a standard dryer. But probably anything will be better.
I think i will First open the extruder and Check everything before. When the hot end is out i can Test the extruder? When i See there some Problems i will Change the extruder.
Actually ,you could run a quick and simple test beforehand without disassembly. At least it works on the X1. Not sure about the P1. Unplug the filament PTFE going to the extruder, manually insert a piece of filament, heat up the nozzle to the last filaments extrusion temp, and then extrude 10mm. If the extruder slips on the filament, which you can feel on the filament while observing that the wheel on the extruder is turning, you should look insides the extruder. If it does not, go for the nozzle cold pull or (temporary) nozzle replacement first.
If you first check the extruder, any likely issues should be pretty obvious by discoloration in the extruder teeth and manual operation.
So its me again. i opend the printer and the nozzle was clocked. It looks like the extruder is working fine. I tested it without a ozzle. Then we tried another print and it looks Like after the first centimeter it stops getting enough filament or something like that.
Did you dry the filament yet? And which method did you use to unclog the nozzle?
You may also want to check the filament itself for diameter variations using a pair of calipers.
Filament is dry and i used a sharp Needle to clean it. I will try now a manuel Flown calibration and see what will happen.
