I can’t print with Bambu’s ASA using Bambu’s ASA Filament profile

[samuel.muxlow]

You should try Polymaker ASA. It works fantastic with my X1C… I get beautiful prints, just keep in mind these filaments cant be printed at the same speed as others. So I run mine with >120mm/s. Basically any setting over that gets adjusted to 120 or less. Also I would run flowrate test and pressure advance just to ensure you are getting the best results.

Polymaker ASA also sticks great to PEI Textured sheets, normally with glue but sometimes without as well. I believe my nozzle temp is 260-265 and my bed is 90+

[samuel.muxlow]

And its sick looking.

Got that mirror finish

[samuel.muxlow]

Its definitely of much higher build quality than the black one. You can tell as soon as you pick it up. The surface is very glossy, like a mirror finish almost. Its awesome!

[Bnut157]

Great. Looks like I need to spend more money

[ExtremeElementz]

You should try Polymaker ASA. It works fantastic with my X1C…

I have no idea why the X1C prints ASA as good as it does you’re not the only person who has mentioned about the X series just works. I only have a P1PS and now that I have had success using Bambu’s ASA with liquid glue I think I will continue to use it up till it’s gone. But you bring up a point about running those tests (another reason why I should have just ponied up and got the X series) the auto cali must be so nice on those machines.

I will be buying the High Temp Plate and Gold PEI Sheets to run more testing. Not sure how other people feel but when it’s working man I am still just blown away on how incredible this machine is. I am pretty excited for the future of Bambu.

[ExtremeElementz]

Which sheet are you mentioning? The Gold PEI or High Temp plate. I am going to be buying both

[samuel.muxlow]

The Gold PEI sheet is soooo worth it. I use it for every filament and they all stick (98% of the time) without glue. Although for filaments like ABS and ASA you should still use the liquid glue.

The auto-cals are really nice but I always dial in new filament using slicer calibrations, just to make sure its as good as possible.

[Damocles]

I might can chime in here as I print a lot of ASA. The one thing is that my prints are functional models, but strengths is not super important so these settings are bit aggressive for a part that needs super strong layer adhesion.

I have used PolyMaker and FilamentOne but found FilamentOne to release a decent bit more VOC’s. I understand you are on a P1S, so me using an X1C is a bit different, but maybe some stuff will translate.

When it comes to printing ASA, I used the Engineering Plate for both of my X1C’s. One uses the Liquid Glue, the other glue stick. I applied it about 3 months ago and so far, have had zero need to reapply. I find that many users try to remove the print while the bed is hot and touch the plate alot…dont do this

The Liquid Glue can leave marks on the print that seem to be very hard to remove. Not found a good solution to this.

As for print settings, I find many people are using settings that are wrong, post it online, only for it to get copied over and over again.

Filament Settings:

• I print at 260-270C depending on the color, bed at 90C, with calibrated Max Volumetric Speed. Typically, I run the Max Volumetric Speed around 5 mm^3/s slower than the true “max”. (since reading comprehension seems to be lacking for some, I run the Max Volumetric Speed slower than whatever I measured. For ASA, most are around a max of 25-30 mm^3/s

• For cooling, I run the part cooling fan at 40-65% depending on the part and color. If you remember high school physics, dark colors get hot and radiate a lot of heat, white colors reflect a lot of heat. While the concept in its direct application is different than on 3D printing, certain concepts do apply. It is important to remember that if a part is not structural and appearance matters, you want the cooling fan to be a static setting. This means enabling: Keep Fan Always On and Setting the Fan Speed to be the same on both parts. There is a new setting in Orca that seems to override this setting, so you might have to disable Force cooling for overhangs and bridges if you find it acting weird in the preview.

• I do force Spiral Z Hop in the Machine Settings as I have found good success with it so that will affect the filament.

I also disable the Aux and Chamber fan as they cause either uneven cooling or remove the heat inside the chamber. I also run a BentoBox which does stabilize temps better and allow for even heating, coupled with good VOC reduction.

Processes Settings:

I run a customize setup using the best options from profiles like the converted Ellis Voron settings, to some tuned calibrated settings, to what I have found best in my own testing. YMMV

All of my filaments are individually calibrated for both flow and pressure advance. This was done manually in Orca as I find the Ellis pattern to better than just lines, as well as, doing Pass 2 with Flow Ratio set to 1 as I have found PolyMaker ASA to flow VERY well so it needs to be smaller than 1.

Under the current X1C firmware, it does seem that the auto pressure advance is very accurate. Maybe .005-.01 too high. I error on the side of layers bonding, versus a perfect 90. Still undecided on Auto Flow Rate.

Quality:
Layer Height
Layer Height: .16mm
First Layer Height: .2mm

Line Width
Default: .42mm
First Layer: .5mm
Outer Wall: .42mm
Inner Wall: .45mm
Top Surface: .35mm
Sparse Infill: .45mm
Internal Solid Infill: .5mm
Support: .42mm

The rest for this tab is default besides enabling Arachne and Avoiding Crossing Walls set to 200%

Strength

Most of these are default or changed print to print. I run 3-5 wall loops and Gyroid, Cubic, and Support Cubic depending on the part. I do enable Combine Infill and sometimes disable Ensure Vertical Shell Thickness if the part’s geometry means that with it enabled, it adds a ton of Solid Infill to the print.

I am still trying to determine if in the latest version of BambuStudio/X1C firmware, Monotonic Line and/or Only One Wall on Top Surfaces is causing rough top surfaces on my prints.

Speed (I dont feel like typing units on these )

This is where the fun begins

First Layer: 50
First Layer Infill: 105
Outer Wall: 150
Inner Wall: 300
Sparse Infill: 330
Internal Solid Infill: 300
Top Surface 100

Slow Down for Overhangs Enabled.

Rest is default besides support settings (I use HIPS as an Interface)

Overall, these settings work very well for me. It could be because PolyMaker flows so well, I used Black, Red, Green, and Blue which hold heat well. I find Black flows so well that I have to really lower flow ratio.

If you need structural parts, I think all of these settings would work, but basically drop the walls to max of 80mm/s. Walls do more strength than infill so leaving that fast should be fine. Cooling would need a lot more testing at slow speeds.

Let me know if you have any questions.

[samuel.muxlow]

Wow you print a lot faster than I do. Even if I’m printing functional parts, I like them to be visually pleasing. Don’t be scared to drop the speed settings a lot, the X1C and P1P/S are crazy efficient machines… they still have double and sometimes triple the speed of my Prusa mk3s+ with similar speed settings. For my outer walls I run >100mm/s to make the parts have little to no vfas. And on infill, I usually slow that down as well. ASA, but more specifically ABS prints can easily end up being poor quality because of infill. If you watch carefully, those infill patterns will print jagged and rough, sometimes causing the whole print to fail.

I usually run them at >=120mm/s. Just my observation

[GroundBounce]

Congratulations on being yet another person that has discovered that the selling point of bambu labs is totally mute as they don’t understand their own materials and therefore the tags are useless as we mere mortals are not allowed to edit the profiles associated with them. We have to create our own out of bitter experience and then select them manually.

I have found that flow rate is always a problem on these printers. I don’t know if it is the printer or the material.

[ExtremeElementz]

I do believe they have lots of areas that could improve the user experience for sure. I would love to see more prompts in the slicer that would help refine it for their products. For example if I loaded up Bambu’s ASA and selected the correct profiles that before I hit print a popup would have asked me “Have you applied glue to the build plate?” Forcing me to interact with the window.

Which of course for people who have gotten good at remembering or just don’t care about prompts like that could have the option to turn off completely in the slicer. I for one have had a failed print because I forgot to change the build plate in the settings before I hit print at least once. But would have really liked seeing something like this forcing me to understand that liquid glue is required on the black textured pei plate. I wouldn’t have wasted so much time and filament.

[just4memike]

@samuel.muxlow

Wow you print a lot faster than I do.

With his max volumetric speed being a 5mm/sec3, his speeds could be 1,000,000mm/sec, it wouldn’t matter. The max volumetric setting will cap how fast it can go. For reference, with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.28 layer height, the max speed will be around 50mm/sec.

[Damocles]

Since I do mass manufacturing, slower means lost profits. I will say that though I do print fast, it is not as though these parts are weak. Several of these have screws, heat set inserts, printed threads, and so on where they get assembled and disassembled several times a day. They are also shipped around the world. I say none of this to brag, but to show that these are not little cute prints but large, structural, engineering models.

As for VFA, I tune a LOT around that and have found that for my models, these settings work. I really wish Bambu dealt with this in their engineering phase cause it can truly be atrocious at times.

I do find that many people do not understand where they can cut corners and where they need to slow down.

3D prints get their strength from the walls. It like how a pipe can almost be as strong as a solid bar, especially in certain orientations. While infill does help, walls provide way more to the strength as that is where the force is applied. Printing thicker lines on the walls also increases surface area and thus, adhesion. Printing thick, fast infill can lead to large time savings while causing little to no strength loss.

I have ran 30 unique designs, 10 iterations each, for around 20-30kg with these settings with not a single failure.

[Damocles]

If you read my post again, and I added an edit explain more, I stated I did 5 mm/sec^3 less than the calibrated max. I was worried that if I placed numbers, someone is just going to copy mine and they will be sorely disappointed as my Black ASA can do 25mm/s easy where Green is pretty agressive at 22 mm/s. I have even found changes batch to batch with PolyMaker Blue ASA.

So no, these settings are not overly fast due to max volumetric speed being slow.

[just4memike]

Definitely miss-read that. But the point of the post still stands, people shouldn’t read too much into what others say about speed without knowing what the volumetric speed is, at least when using a Slic3r derivative.

Honestly, I thought you were both leaving a lot of speed on the table at those low speeds. ASA is a very fast printing filament. It has its limitations, but speed is not one of them. But if you are using 25mm3/sec as a baseline for the faster colors, you are much more in-line with the normal expectation.

[samuel.muxlow]

I know what max volumetric speed is, but I never use it as a sole speed-break (as you shouldn’t). I also find that tuning specific speeds just works better than adjusting only mvf.

[samuel.muxlow]

Its really not a significant difference in speed. Maybe 30-45mins. Clearly our goals are different but I guarantee you my parts are not weaker than yours or less good looking, if anything they are better in both ways… that’s why I’d rather stick with consistent results. And as you mentioned, colors affect results, my settings work with any color and ABS as well. Zero thought behind pressing print for every model. The time you save printing faster I save by starting new prints with no alterations.

Please don’t assume I’m printing “little cute prints” lol. Pretty much everything I design and print is a functional part for selling or R&D.

[ExtremeElementz]

I’m throwing in the towel. ASA, Liquid Glue, Black PEI Textured bed—none of them seem to be on my side. I applied a single layer of Bambu Liquid Glue, drawing from my recent experiences. To my delight, the print went through and printed almost exactly like I’d hope except for some bridging areas.

It’s that awesome Birdhouse showcased in their ASA Filament launch pictures on their site.

Well after letting the plate cool down and removing the print from the plate I knew something wasn’t right…

I noticed the brim stayed put and the bottom of the print was showing the print was actually not fully seated to the bed. (slight warpage?) I tried to pick off the brim like I normally would and it wouldn’t budge, I tried to peal a corner off to hope grab the entire corner and peel that off. Nope. I decided to get it wet and use some soap and water. Nope.

So I had no choice but to take the scraper to it and hoped for the best… well I damaged the plate. #%$&!

At this point I’m just going to create a ticket and show Bambu this thread and give them my experience. I give up. When I am finally able to get a print to stick to the bed the brim sticks too darn good to the surface and causes me to accidentally damage the print surface. I’m done.

[Damocles]

I think something is getting lost in communication here so I apologize for that.

You must remember that 30-45 min saving on a 3-4 hour print ends up being quite a huge a loss for me. I am not saying that is true for everyone, but it is true for me and for my clients needs. I never stated your parts were weaker nor did I say that look worse. I also never said your prints were “little cute prints”, I stated that mine were not. The root of my message was for ExtremeElementz as he was having the issues.

You are correct, using Max Volumetric Speed as the limiting factor would be very foolish. I am not sure what gave the impression that I stated or implied that? I did correct the other person who misread what I wrote and thought it said “5mm/s^3”, but no one should use that setting as the main limit.

Overall, my settings work with Polymaker Red, Green, Blue, Black, White, Orange, and Yellow. I do zero tuning per color, only some tweaks to settings for certain parts because there is no single “best” setting for every part. But overall, my settings are, as you say, “Zero thought behind pressing print”

It seems that something I wrote struck a nerve which I did not intend. I know very little about your prints and settings beyond that I “print faster”. You did make a couple statements that I tried to counter with to see if they could help you, but they were not meant as an insult.

[joeffx]

ExtremeElementz, before you completely give up I still recommend the Bambu Gold Pei build plate. I personally had nothing but problems with that black one you are using. It seems counterintuitive because they are both Textured PEI plates and should be the same but they are not. The gold one is far superior and ever since I got it I have used it for everything. Trust me you won’t regret purchasing it. Bambu Textured PEI Plate | Bambu Lab Global
Honestly, I had more luck with their smooth High Temp plate than the Black Textured PEI.
Probably go ahead and create ticket, let’s see if BL has anything helpful to add to your situation.