I can’t print with Bambu’s ASA using Bambu’s ASA Filament profile

They have chosen to help replace the plate as a one off. The customer service rep has printed with the same model but with glue stick (not liquid glue) and had great success in removing the brim. I will be attempting a larger print soon with glue stick on the damaged dual textured PEI plate in hopes to verify this.


Black Dual Textured Bambu Build Plate + Bambu Liquid Glue + Large Print w/ Brim + Bambu ASA + Bambu ASA Profile = Fail :frowning: The build plate is now damaged due to trying to remove the brim that was practically laminated to the surface.


To use Bambu’s ASA with Bambu’s Stock ASA Profile Glue Stick or Liquid Glue is REQUIRED on the Textured PEI Plates with these machines listed above. Especially if using the Black Dual Textured PEI Plate.

Bambu should update their tables on the black and gold textured PEI plates for this to be accurate. This doesn’t appears to not matter if you use ASA with an X series.

I was hoping to try out their new ASA they released not too long ago but disappointed I need to calibrate the profile they have for us to use because it simply doesn’t work without intervention. I checked their filament profiles wiki and sales page and saw that the textured bed will work and without glue for ASA.

Well that’s simply not true. I cannot get the print to stay put and when I do get a little adhesion it warps and delaminates. When the part cooling fan kicks in for a 45 degree overhang it delaminates. When the fan kicks in to complete a bridge it delaminates.

Who at Bambu created this profile because it simply doesn’t work? So now I’ve gotta fine tune the settings like I had to with Generic Filament but wasn’t expecting to have to do this with Bambu’s own filament and their own profile. All while wasting the more expensive Bambu ASA to get it dialed in.

Things to know:

  • P1PS
  • Textured Build Plate
  • Yes I cleaned the bed with dish soap and water
  • Yes I preheated the chamber for 30-40 minutes allowing chamber to reach 40-45c
  • Yes I’ve tried a brim

The closest I’ve gotten so far was with this photo, but that was changing these settings and it still failed anyways.

  • Disabled Fan Always on
  • Lowered Overhang Fan Speed from 80% to 40%
  • Lowered Max Fan Speed from 50% to 20%

Once that bridge started to bridge and that fan kicked on it delaminated from the bed and failed.

I shouldn’t have to mess around and try to get a Bambu filament profile configured for Bambu’s own filament. I can understand tweaking things to make it look better or print faster, but to not even be able to complete a print without modification is disappointing.

Any tips I’m all ears.

I agree. That fan speed was set way to high IMO.
I cant really give much specific advice since the only ASA I have printed with my X1C has been 3DXTech ASA (Which is the worst filament on the planet. I couldnt get it to print on my Bambu or my bed sligger, tried to tune every setting in the book and it always comes out looking like poop) and PolyLite ASA, which prints like a dream. Because of that, I can ask general questions that I assume youre already doing:

  • I’m assuming you’re printing the first layer nice and slow? (like 35mm/s) I find that this greatly increases adhesion with PEI plates. Turning up the first layer thickness a little helps too but I assume you’ve done that.

  • After you’ve scrubbed it with the soapy water, do you also hit it with some 99% IPA?

  • Bed temp, did you try turning it up 5-10°C?

  • If all else fails, try to get the fan speed as low as you can.

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You would mind sharing your settings for PolyLite ASA? I have tried it in the past and had mixed results on my X1C.

Thanks for the reply. I did scrub the plate with some dawn dish soap and warm water and used 91% IPA to wipe down after that with a microfiber. Since I’ve never printed with ASA I didn’t know what to expect.

I had random roll of ABS and was able to get that to print wonderfully after I configured the generic ABS profile. I was using the exact steps I listed above thinking ASA was so similar and didn’t have warping or adhesion issues that it would work with Bambu’s ASA and their profile. Well their stock profile didn’t work, the modified settings I use for ABS transferred to the profile didn’t work so that’s why I’m a little irritated.

But you brought up a couple great points I suppose for my next testing, I haven’t modified the speed or the thickness of the first layer from stock values, off the top of my head I can’t recall what they are but I know I didn’t change them. Since I have a P series the bed only goes to 100c I think I’ll use that temp and try again that did help the cube stick better from the image I posted.

I’ll be doing more testing again and see what I can do, I’m avoiding glue stick if I can. Im not opposed to buying the smooth high temp plate either if it’s going to work better but dang it I figured I’d have better success if I could get ABS to stick using Bambu’s Profile with their filament. Just sucks I can’t even get a print to complete yet.

Thank you again.

I cant guarantee these settings will work for your machine but here are my settings:

  • Nozzle temp: 260 all layers
  • Bed temp (PEI): 100

Below is a pic of my cooling settings.


Yes, ASA can be frustrating to dial in, thats for sure. It is disappointing they dont have the BBL profile tuned better.

Bump that fan down more, turn up bed temp, slow down first layer speed, and see where that gets you.

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Try putting the in-fill back to Grid. With the high speed of these printers, I have only had problems with the gyroid.

I’ve printed FlashForge ASA and Polymaker ASA on my X1C with very little issues. Forcing a brim is good insurance. I’ve used the Bambu ASA presets on both PEI and the Engineering Plate with a high success rate.

Thanks all I will be trying again tonight. It just makes me feel like they didn’t actually test out the profile on the P series.

The few makers I’ve talked to with the X series actually had success without changing anything. What’s interesting to is if you click on “click to edit preset” button and look it’s labels as Bambu ASA @BBL X1C 0.4 nozzle which further makes me feel like it wasn’t originally intended for the P series and they never modified it to work.

I presume the LiDAR calibration has something to do with helping the print to stick and it’s properly enclosed? Idk just frustrating that I’m wasting time and filament trying to get this to work, it will make me think twice about buying actual Bambu filament if I have to re-configure their profiles to work on their printer.

schmitzna’s comment reminded me that I also reduce speeds of ASA down to 80-100mm/s to increase layer adhesion and strength. This may also help with keeping the part from coming loose since the machine is not moving so violently.

Yeah I keep hearing people with the X series with great success, I truly feel Bambu never tested the P1S with their ASA.

Grid infill was a fail too, once those fans kick on the print starts warping.

I understand I bought the cheaper machine and maybe I need to give in and try glue, but I bought the ASA under the impression I wouldn’t need to use glue and according to their sales page and wiki the textured plate works with ASA with no glue.

I print tons of Polylite ASA on my X1C and it prints great. Haven’t tried BBL ASA yet and probably won’t. Sounds like your only problem is bed adhesion which should be the same between an X1C and P1P. I’ve found the BBL Black Textured plates to be total ■■■■. I got a knockoff gold textured plate from Amazon and it works great, again for small things. Anything larger than ~75mm I print with a smooth PEI plate and glue stick. I ruined a PEI plate already using it with ASA without glue as it sticks too well.

In short you need to suck it up and use glue. I resisted for years but it really is necessary for certain filaments and/or prints. It’s not nearly as onerous as it seems either. I only clean and reapply glue every 25 prints or so and it’s not really sticky or messy as you probably imagine.

I use 100C bed temp regardless of plate type.


I don’t deny it’s an adhesion issue but what I don’t understand is ABS sticks fine without an issue. More and more people who have an X1C say they don’t have issues printing generic or Bambu ASA. You’ve even said you’ve ruined a PEI plate because ASA stuck too good that’s crazy. Lol

This is just talking out loud but what causes you with an X1C to have ruined a plate because ASA stuck too good without glue, yet me with a P series can’t even get the print to stick after that 3rd layer because the fan turning on causes the print to literally just pop off the plate.

What is the X series doing that the P series isn’t, is it the LiDAR helping or is it because it’s properly enclosed and capable of higher bed temps? Why is the filament profile shown as a profile specifically for the X1C printer?? I just don’t know the answers.

I have more testing ahead for sure I do wish Bambu would listen to some of these things considering it’s impossible to use their ASA Profile with their ASA without modification to the profile to make it even work. At the end of the day what’s the point in supporting Bambu and buying their filament when it doesn’t work on the P1P/S or P1S printers??

Not gonna lie I’m going to be sending a ticket in if I get this to start working and the profile setup considering the amount of testing, time and filament I’m wasting. I feel I should have just splurged for the X series more every day. Thanks for the reply.

use the liquid glue. spread an even layer

I’m going to tonight at this point idc I just want it to print. I’ve never used glue before on any printer so these are going to sound like stupid questions.

  1. Do I put the glue on the plate before the bed reaches temp?

  2. Do I let the glue dry or start printing right away while it’s not cured yet?

  3. Do I wash the glue off every time I’m done printing or after a couple prints? How does it keep its stickiness if it’s not reapplied every time?

  4. Does the glue just dissolve in soap and water when it’s time to clean it off?

  5. How do you know when you need to reapply it, wait for a print to fail?

I too have found that the black textured plate can be finicky. Ive even had issues getting PETG to stick. With my Anycubic Vyper PEI sheet, PETG would almost stick too well and there were a few times I had to pry parts off of the plate, even after it had cooled!

Not so with the BBL PEI plate. I think there must be a mfg defect with black these plates.

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  • Do I put the glue on the plate before the bed reaches temp?* A: Apply the glue to the plate when it is cool.

  • Do I let the glue dry or start printing right away while it’s not cured yet?* A: The glue should cure/dry in about 30s to 1 minute so you can apply and hit “Print” and it will dry during warm up and calibration.

  • Do I wash the glue off every time I’m done printing or after a couple prints? How does it keep its stickiness if it’s not reapplied every time?* A: No, you dont need to wash it off every time. Every 10-20 prints works fine. If you notice an area that looks dry after a print, just put more glue on that area.

  • Does the glue just dissolve in soap and water when it’s time to clean it off?* **A: Yes, the glue dissolves in regular dish soap and warm water.

  • How do you know when you need to reapply it, wait for a print to fail?* A: yes, clean and reapply when prints start failing, or when you cant stand to look at how much glue is piling up on the plate haha.


Thank you for helping me out, I think I’ll be buying a couple more and different plates going forward and maybe designate a specific plate for certain types of filaments.

I’ve always had a gold PEI plate for my Enders and although I’ve never printed with ASA on them, this filament is new to me I’ve never had adhesion issues. All other types of issues though :sob:

Lots of great help with your answers I especially love the one about not being able to stand looking at the glue piling up.

I’m new to 3d printing and I got the X1C to supposedly make getting into printing easier. In my experience I have had way more success with ABS than ASA. I have tried Polylite ASA with some hard fought success. I just recently bought some of the BBL ASA with the same hope you had that the BBL ASA might work better.
I just wanted to chime in and let you know you aren’t the only one struggling with ASA, which is annoying because I feel like a lot of advice online leans towards ASA being the best filament no matter what.
I recently started using the Gold PEI bed plate from BBL and it is working flawlessly with ABS. So that might be worth a shot.
Glue stick is awesome when you’re having bed adhesion issues the answers from Bnut157 are spot on.
Good luck

@ExtremeElementz I clean the plate with ipa, dab a bunch of glue across the plate, spread glue evenly with clean finger. Then i move my next few prints around until the glue is all used up and repeat. Only for asa which i print alot of.the glue will make the color change slightly lighter and youll notice the spots under each print will be darker. Thats how you tell when you need more glue.

Dont use the bed heat to dry the glue. It will evaporate and coat the inside of the printer. Youll really notice it on upper portions of the glass.

Dont apply glue onto a bed that alreafy has glue. You will create high points where the glue overlaps. Just place prints on areas that still have glue.


I wanted one more “parameters change test” and well another fail. No I didn’t use glue but this is the furthest it’s ever gotten. No settings matter Bambu. Smh. At this point I’ve proven Bambu never tested ASA on a P1S. Unfortunate.

  • Preheated chamber for 46 minutes
  • First layer speed 25mm/s
  • First layer height .25mm
  • Bed Temp 100c
  • Keep Fan always on turned off
  • Max Fan Speed 20%
  • Fan speed for overhangs 40%

So yes Glue Stick Testing Starts Next