Hi,
I’m struggling to print ASA. The heavy warping of ASA makes it impossible for me to achieve a rather simple object. I tried it 4 times, changing temperatures, adding raft…
Here is my print file.
Entretoise_Radiateur_Salon.3mf (27,1 Ko)
It’s 12 grams + 3g raft. If someone get it printed, could you please tell me how or post here the workign 3MF file?
I cleaned the bed and tried glue.
I use Eryone normal ASA filament.
Thank you for help.
I kept the printer choice of P1S, 0.4 nozzle even though I have an X1C.
Smooth PEI/High Temp Plate with a very thin layer of Elmer’s Purple Glue Stick, dissolved in IPA and sprayed on.
I kept the Generic ASA filament preset rather than use the calibrated settings I normally use for this blue Inland ASA. No reason, just curious.
I changed the Sparse infill from Grid to Gyroid. I suspect (without proof) that Gyroid shrinks more evenly than Grid. And, I just hate the concept of infills that cross themselves on the same layer.
I returned all the speeds to the defaults for 0.20mm Standard @BBL X1C.
I reduced the brim from 10 mm to 5 mm. That’s a judgement call, 10 just looked too big. If the print wants to warp severely, it will probably break loose at the brim-object gap anyway.
Entretoise_Radiateur_Salon (1).3mf (31.8 KB)
Oh, that is a very detailed answer and a lot of knowledge here. This is very kind of you, tweaking the file and printing it. Thank you.
I only have textured PEI board. I will try :
I’m a little concerned about speeds honestly, since my ASA is rated for 30-50 mm/s, but I’ll try anyway 
I’m curious to see (tomorrow, now ) what it does. I’ll come back with the results.
Thank you again.
ASA/ABS needs chamber temperature about 60°C.
You should get a small temperature sensor inside the printer to tell chamber temperature, like this one
Once you know the chamber temperature during print or during preheat, then you can have some measures to solve that, like:
Until now, the printer with built in chamber heater is X1E, that cost like 4 times P1S.
You don’t need that high of a temperature to print ABS/ASA for most prints, especially this one. I typically just preheat my chamber to 40c+ and let her rip. I even turn on my exhaust fan setup to send the air outside, which can drop the temperature by a few degrees. The larger the part, the longer I let it heat soak and let the chamber temper get close close to 50c and don’t use my exhaust.
The most important things are that you thoroughly clean your build plate with dish soap, thinly apply glue, heat soak your chamber, and keep the doors shut until the print finishes.
To prove that point, I printed this part, resetting everything to default values; the only change being the infill pattern to cubic. Didn’t preheat my chamber, which started at 25c before I hit print, and started printing at 35c. I printed with Bambu Green ABS on default settings.
Thank you everyone for the time you put in helping me.
I tried following all the rules you mentioned (they are all pretty similar) and got exactly the same bad result:
I preheated 25 min with 100° plate.
I put a blanket on my printer.
I did not open until it failed.
I turn the case fan off.
I cleaned the plate with dish saop (as always) and applied a very thin layer of glue.
I used @Ikraus file.
So either I’m unlucky, or my ASA filament is crappy. It’s Eryone white ASA standard, fresh from sealed bag. I do not own a dryer anyway.
I’ll try one more time but it will probably fail. The question is why.
PS : when you say you use default settings, do you mean you also resetted wall loops, top and bottom shell layers… ? Or did you use the provided file as is (whose one)? Or only changed the speeds?
Well, that doesn’t mean anything at all. As one user put it: “they all come with free water”.
Oh, cr*p! But I have no way to dry my ASA, except in oven, which was highly discouraged by many users.
You have a printer… It’s not the most elegant drier but it will work.
Indeed. I will try that.
Thanks
Why can’t I use the hotend temperature to monitor the chamber temperature? If it is not heated by itself, it should be roughly at the air temperature inside the case, no?
You actually can. I’ve found it follows the chamber temp pretty closely when preheating with the bed.
Ok so I heated to 55° (it wouldn’t go higher after 1 hour of heating), and I’ve let all default.
I was watching closely for the entire 1 hour process.
It went all right until the 13th layer (out of 15th). And then, the borders poped suddently, warping like hell.
I’ve let it run, it was fun to watch as long as some part was still attached to the bed, but it eventually detached while printing the 15th layer.
I feel like warping occurs really always after 13 or 14 layers.
And I can’t seem to be able to prevent it… Any new idea?
Video footage just before the manual stop:
ttps://www.kao.co.jp/cape/3d/
It can be applied thinly and evenly with a spray. ABS is printed with a thin layer of this.
It’s a hair styling product, but it’s actually glue.
Thank you for the tip. I already put glue, but not that type of glue. A more common one for paper (named UHU in France)
I will try to buy a better , like the one you show.
However, I wonder if what I have is normal, while others here don’t struggle as much 
Thanks
That part really shouldn’t be causing those problems, I’d suggest trying another brand of filament. I always suggest try BambuLab’s filament to get a base line. I used to have lots of warping issues with generic ABS (I’ve never used ASA). I only also use gyroid for PETG (the devil’s spawn) everything I print in ABS is with all stock settings and only when really required I’ll add a brim. That is the kind of print that I’d use to warm the machine before starting a bigger one. I recently printed a 10 dog food can dispenser like the coke can ones, but with 3 tiers. I had to lock out the filament cutter to print it, 245x245mm with no brim and had no issues at all.
But I don’t think it’s free water. They sell you the water for the same rate per KG as filament.
@olendorf, not sure I understand your point
I was replying to that comment. It’s not free water, they sell the filament by the weight so you are paying for the water too.
Oh yes, I get it now. Sorry
Big news for me: I bought a filament dryer (Sunlu S4). We’ll see how it helps.
