I’ve had my first printer (X1C) for about a month now, and I’m a big dumb idiot.
I decided to try one of these lithophanes out, so I swapped the stock 0.4 nozzle for the 0.2 for the first time. I took the screws out, fiddled with the cables, popped the hotend out, and clicked the 0.2 hotend in. That was way easier than I thought it was going to be, I said to myself…
I didn’t put the screws back in, like a big dumb idiot.
Anyways, the build plate is obviously cooked, but I wonder how much damage could have potentially been done to any other parts of the printer? Like the motors or the Z screws or something?
I switched to the smooth plate that I have never used before and started up the 14-hour lithophane print again with the same 0.2 hotend (now with screws in) that had just been turning my textured plate as smooth as an egg. It seems to be printing fine… but for how long?
At worst case I’d say you might need a new .2 hotend.
Best case you just need to buy a new textured build plate.
I wouldn’t sweat it too much, especially since you say it looks like it’s printing fine.
*** pro tip: count your screws before you reassemble and after you reassemble
Looks like you’ve only managed to mess up that section of the build plate and maybe sacrifice the poor 0.2 nozzle in the process. Welcome to the exclusive club of people who damage their build plates by creative problem-solving!
By the way, lithophanes actually turn out just fine with a 0.4 nozzle too—I’ve made quite a few myself! Over my time as a 3D printer enthusiast, I’ve managed to damage around 10 build plates through a mix of experiments and, well, let’s just call it ‘adventurous decision-making.’
If the nozzle is slightly bent, it can be removed and placed in a vise, and gently tapped until straight. Straighten it front-to-back and left-to-right. No need to buy a new nozzle. If you hit it too hard or bend it too far, it might break - then you need a new nozzle.
And unless the texture on your build plate is absolutely critical for surface finish, the plate can be used for printing just fine. Flip it over if you need a 100% perfect underside of the print, and use the scratched side when it’s not.
What happened is really not serious. Don’t ask how I know this works just fine…
Did the same with a 0.4, the part of the plate I wrecked was the flow calibration area at the front, I’d retired that side, but I suppose I could use it for prints where I’m going to disable flow calibration.
Pretty sure I won’t do that again, the noises it made were quite unpleasant :-/
If only the flow calibration area across the front is scratched or scored I doubt it will affect automatic pre-print calibration or printing. I’ve seen a score groove right through the front (from rear to front and off the front of the plate) and it made absolutely no difference to calibration and the quality of prints whatsoever - prints were still perfect. Just rub the burr off and try printing.
Honestly, those plates are cheap enough that I would make sure to have at least 2 or 3 to switch between washing all of them… Textured PEI are definitely my favorite. The supertac cool plates are okay, but almost too sticky, but nice to have one.
