I finally got the nerve to try ABS after having my bento box up and running for several months. no issues, no smell, i was using the stock Bambu ABS profile. I printed on textured PEI (black plate) with no problems. I also used engineering plate with a glue stick, also no issues.
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Hi @lightdir any pics? 
I am a bit nervous about using ABS, the stuff I used in the past (3 years ago?) was quite smelly and gave me a headache every time, which brand did you use? Bambu? I was however impressed by print quality at the time.
Darren
The Bambu is the first machine that I have gotten consistent and warp free ABS prints from. It’s really opened up the parts that I’ve always shied away from printing.
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i am using Bambu ABS. I printed a bento box with charcoal inside the unit and a air filter with charcoal filters next to my X1C.I had no smell outside the unit.
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I was using BL ABS in the beginning. It was always out of stock at the time. For me the smell was pretty bad with headaches.
Bought this and changed to polymaker ABS. For me this brand barely smells. But my air purifier runs 24/7.
I also have a PCO for my whole house HVAC system. Together they do a great job. I print 99% ABS.
The ONLY time i see high particles is when my wife fries bacon. 
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Congratulations it probably took me a lot longer than you to earn my ABS/ASA merit badge, I was a “don’t need or want to use glue” type of person by the time I realized I need to get over myself. Lol
Now you should try ASA because it’s better in practically every area. Less smell, better water resistance, better UV resistance, higher temperate resistance and from my testing less warping chance too. I love ASA, once you get rid of the glue stick fears it practically prints like PLA it’s really nice.
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I’ve had the opposite experience printing with ASA unfortunately. ABS though, prints perfectly for me.
Yeah, nobody wants to use glue, “because my ender 3 doesn’t need glue”. Probably because snails make their own glue I only buy ABS now as it has better properties ie gluing, smoothing, sanding, heat resistance and no creeping. I live in Perth, functional PLA things don’t survive in my workshop which reaches 45-50°C in the summer. I’ve started printing ABS with the glass top removed with no issues yet. Admittedly I’m not printing poop buckets, but everything else seems to stick very well to BB glue diluted with IPA and no brims. It prints like PLA. And best of all, there is no noise.
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I have yet to try ASA, Nylon , any CF, or PC. Not even going to do the though PA6-CF at $79.99 for 1 kg is a little steep for my experience level.
I went straight to ASA. Worked great on my X1C. I printed about 20 post caps for my deck, and so far they have held up to the summer sun just fine. The worst part of printing with ASA is the film it leaves behind inside the X1C. I used acetone to get rid of it on the glass, but I’m worried about the areas I can’t see/clean. Hopefully it won’t cause an issue down the road.
For printing ABS, do you have to make your print bigger, e.g. 1%, to compensate shrinkage?
I scale xyz to 100.6% based on the results I got with this test print.
https://www.printables.com/model/480907-shrinkage-calculator-dimensional-calibration-tool-
In Orcaslicer I used to use the shrinkage field set to 99.35% but I think I only does x&y. I’ve had 70mm tall abs prints be too short, now all dimensions seem to be spot on just scaling the whole thing and it’s much easier to do after rotating the parts a few times.
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If I print ABS with default 15% infill, they come out perfect with no scaling. I’ve tried to print a few both 100% infill, and with walls so thick that it is effectively 100% infill, and have had some shrinkage. I’m going to try one now with scaling, since the slicer allows scaling by independent axis, I should be able to make the part perfect. I’m using Microcenter Inland ABS, 260F nozzle, 90F plate.
clean the sensors? hmm, wonder what else it would build up on. the mechanical surfaces probably but what could it really effect