I guess I should learn to print ABS

I figure I’d post this here since it’s not really on topic so to speak.

So this happened today. That spool is just green PLA. I put the roll in to dry and thought nothing of it. Well, I had the temp set to 56 for like 8 hours I think.

So, I figure it’s time to start watching videos on how to print ABS and make another *sigh filament order…

I mean unless there is something better to make these rolls out of. I’m open for all suggestions.

That is not a bad idea, but ABS has a terrible smell and is also kind of expensive. Also, generally, ASA is a better option than ABS for most every application.
So, you might want to consider PETG instead. My default filament go-to, numakers, has pretty nice TDSs, which show that the glass transition temperature of PLA, PETG, and ASA are 55-60, 80, and 105.
PETG and ASA are far easier to print than ABS, and PETG is somewhat easier to print than ASA. So if you don’t plan on drying spools above ~70C, PETG is probably your best bet, and otherwise, try ASA!

2 Likes

I’d also go with using PETG.
I use Overture PETG. Overture say the glass transition temperature is 79C-90C

2 Likes

Fwiw, I had some success in repairing a deformed PLA spool by warming it up again using the filament drying feature of the printer for some 15 minutes to just soften one side of the spool again and then taking it out, laying it down on a cool and flat surface and pressing it down for a few minutes until it cooled again.

3 Likes

I have used the Bambu ABS and profiles on the x1 for spools and they came out great. It smells a bit but the area where my printer has ok ventillation so it was not a problem for me.

3 Likes

Thanks all for the advice.

I’ll try some of these filaments.

I’m still going to attempt ABS, just because I kinda wanted an excuse to try. From what you all said, I think I’ll work my way up to it. Thank you all.

Guess now I’m obligated to order some filament and post progress prints… Oh darn… :grinning:

1 Like

ABS is the cheapest filament. Goes for about the same price per kg as PLA, however you get about 20% more filament in volume due to its lower density (weight). Suggesting ASA is strange when price concern is mentioned. It’s twice as expensive as ABS. IMHO ABS is totally fine but you have to chose what you want to print with it. Generally you don’t want to print parts susceptible to warping. Thin walled functional parts should be avoided or you have to chose optimal printing direction because layer adhesion is not that good. For that PETG it’s much better. But then PETG cannot be glued or painted. IMHO chose the right filament for the job. As I mostly make functional parts, I rarely print PLA at all. Mostly PETG, ABS and sometimes Nylon.

1 Like

Depending on where you live in the world, the company extrudr have a filamentcalled Greentec Pro. It prints very similarily to PLA+ but is tougher and more heat resistant.

They also have a GreentecPro Carbon filament which has become pretty much my go-to filament for anything that has to withstand being mechanically and/or high temp stressed.

I have recently done a test with the PETG we use, Overture.
With superglue it glues well to other PETG parts and also PLA parts. Not tried painting it.

Well, you sort of can glue it but it’s not reliable and certainly not useable where any significant bond strength is needed.

All I can say is, when doing my tests, the parts broke away not at the glued sections.

3 Likes

Hi Anthony, on a bambu X1C with AMS i have been using mainly ASA and ABS+ from eSun also some filament from Bambu like PA CF and ABS and PETG, and PLA also esun PETG and PLA. With out any issues . For the rolls i just use the one provided by Bambu or the original which are not PLA , most are PETG if not enough it is cheap so get a few extra , not worth printing but if you do use ASA/ABS i have other things to print and the time is critical. All filament i am storing in boxes with plenty of Silica and printed from ABS extra Silica boxes you can add 3 more into AMS. Thing verse has the STL files . The trick i found is as soon as you open Filament straight into AMS or into storage and never had to dry it ever since. You may want to set a station to rewind the spools to the bambu one. I just get one which a refill. I had problems with Prusa with moisture as no box and ordered a Drying box where the filament is feed directly from it with PTFE tube . If you do not have enclose i would not even try printing again anything else but PLA , PETG some success but plenty of issues . ( i tried hundreds of hours and always problems without enclosure. Note only 4 to 8 hours is enough in my place to get moisture in the filament in air enough to start affecting the prints

Hi Anthony
As with Vladimir, I have found prevention is better than cure with the moisture issue. I bought a filament storage kit from my local electronics store (where I buy my filament). The kit has a number of strong resealable bags to take large and small filament spools and a small vacuum pump. When. I take the spool from the printer i immediately seal it in a bag with a silica bag and evacuate all the air before storage. I have not had moisture issues since. I have not tried Nylon or other particularly sensitive filaments.

2 Likes

If you can get ASA, use that instead of ABS. They have identical printing parameters and warping issues, and are both pretty stinky during printing, but ASA is more UV resistant, more water-resistant, and has higher temperature resistance than ABS. ABS is cheaper than ASA filament.

2 Likes

Yeah this is definitely fair, price wise.
Though from anecdotal experience, ASA has somewhat less of a pungent smell (though unpleasant in similar ways if I get close), and I’ve had a ton fewer printing annoyances with ASA than ABS, even with fully dialed in profiles. To be fair, I’ve only printed a few rolls of ABS, though. :person_shrugging:

I use superglue (cyanoacrylate) on PETG all the time and its bonding strength far exceeds the layer strength of the print itself. There are dozens of Youtube videos with fairly well controlled test setups that show the same thing.

I popped a 15 year old roll of MakerBot ABS in to my X1C last week and it printed great (maybe just a teensy bit over extruding). And I used the defaults for generic ABS.

Color isn’t so good (TBT, it wasn’t so good brand new. Not sure why I bought this color :slight_smile:). But the plastic was fine. And I didn’t really dry it out before hand. And what’s worse, it’s been sitting on a shelf in the open air, in a room where I smoke cigars, for 15 years. So I had to wash the roll in the kitchen sink to get all the years of accumulated gunk off it so the dust and debris wouldn’t just plug the nozzle. My “drying” cycle was a towel and then 15 minutes each side of the roll, in the printer with the build plate at 90ºC. And it still printed great.

ABS = NBD.

4 Likes