I got turned on to PETG-CF thanks to proto-pasta a ways back, and now use it for far more than I’d ever originally intended. My only wish is that BL would make one with higher CF content - we’re already supposed to use .6 or greater nozzle size, having a ~15% CF content would be fantastic for greater rigidity.
The recommendation states…
Hotend with Hardened Steel Nozzle 0.4 mm / 0.6 mm / 0.8 mm
Ooof! - Whilst I’m not glad you’ve now also got a damaged build plate, I’m sort of glad it’s not just me making these mistakes.
Bet the top surface looked nice though 
I am not sure it is a mistake.
There is nothing in the guide or recommendations saying to be cautious or that anything needs to be done in preparation.
The red one was left for an hour before I bothered to remove it and it still needed a blade.
There is nothing about glue being required on the product page or anything else. I do not do “glue or anything else with any filament.
I will do some more testing with the filaments as a have a project for a friend it would be suitable for. But, this removal of the build plate finish is concerningly undocumented by Bambu Lab.
It’s just BL’s formulation IMO. Needs an adhesive, or it’ll tear up anything other than glass, or possibly the new engineering plate (though I don’t have one to try as of yet).
Proto-pastas pops off textured pei with 0 issues, as does most others I’ve tried (3-4 brands I think…?) - just BL’s seems to be hell-bent on doing damage lol
That petg haze, if it goes away with a lighter, can be mitigated a little bit by reducing bed temp or purposely under extruding a little on the bottom surface on textured pei
Thanks.
I try to use the stock filament settings, given that it is a BL filament and printer; they should have this sorted.
I will try it, though.
Update
Good news:
The discolouration goes away with a lighter.
Bad news:
I have a fire to deal with.
The ‘haze’ is the crystalline structure under stress, the textured plates really exacerbate it and do Something© to petg as it cools.
It’s at least better than cracking the glass as it cools like in the ender days 
Should I look for the same discolouration on my buttocks?
Only if it’s under great amounts of stress. Also, don’t use the lighter on this one.
After trying some different parts printing and experimentation, I’m beginning to wonder if BL’s CF additive is milled instead of chopped. The clumpng it’s developed on more complex geometries isn’t something I’ve experienced with proper chopped stranded PETG-CF - it’s also not giving the rigidity I’d typically expect from the other manufacturers blends I’ve used…
Anyone know if the specifics are documented anywhere? The material sheets just showed “5-10% CF” as far as I saw (a pretty wide margin to begin with honestly), and while it does quite well in the looks department, I’m not quite sold on the function side of things… 
tried some ABS-GF after reading this thread (I know the op’s material was different) and using Bambu’s stock filament profile (increased bed temp to 100°c) using Eryone material it came out properly lovely.
My only issue was the bottom had hazing underneath, could this be due to the extra bed temp? The bed was super clean.
I usually find this is from taking the part off the bed while it still warm/attached. A couple passes with a stiff brush seems to remove it.
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Thanks mate, will give it a go. I can’t remember if I left it to cool overnight now.
not sure if this works with abs-gf, but on other filaments i use a heat gun and it clears all those markings away nicely
i did take advantage of the discounts and ordered a few rolls, will definitely try some prints once it gets here
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