I think the H2D may be over engineered

OK, I purchased my H2D on black friday and it was great and now I am seeing the flaws…

Little things, things I that I have not plagued me with my 4 P1S.

I have had to replace the little nozzle guard twice. Not sure how it keeps getting bent, but it does. The silicon nozzle covers will not stay on. New one, old ones… doesn’t matter. Almost every print now they just pop off and I can not figure out why. I have had 2 nozzle clogs where I have had none with any of my P1S in the 2 years I have had them. Love this thing, but it is so troublesome in the so many small annoying ways.

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I have to admit, I have more clogs on the H2D than I had with any other kind of printer. even my old ender had fewer clogs. Each time I print between pla petg and abs theres a high chance theres gonna be a clog right on the next print. Example, I print dual pla. Next i try dual abs. CLOGGED.
Dual petg.. then dual ASA. CLOGGED Ive come to be surprised that it doesnt clog, instead of the opposite..
TBH I kind of understand it, different melting points, filament in nozzle swollens and clogs when next higher temp is introduced, and whatnot, but this would take time and require that the nozzle remains idle with the leftover untouched, but the case here is that the clog occures with both nozzles about to be purged. Anyway, I got so much running rn that Ive come to accept that ill just have to pop the nozzle off and unclog it really fast, like at least the hotswappable nozzles are quite helpfull at that, most of the times i dont even have to kill the print and restart, as its happening right at print start /filament loading.
Eh.. On the other hand my h2d is breaking itself apart so…pieces started falling over…
Oh yeah and the enclosure is now bulging outwards, like its warped.
To give a comparison , my p1p is about 2 years old. I have converted it to p1s WITH PLA PRINTED ENCLOSURE. after 2 years the enclosure is about as warped as the h2d’s "factory” enclosure is now.

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For the nozzle sock, make sure the nozzle tip is through A and not B and make also sure C goes over the heatsink, it sometimes just fold in front of it during installation.

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I will confirm I have it on correctly. Could be it fell off and I never installed it properly to begin with. Thanks for the tips.

Yea tried that too. Tbh for me it seems totally random. some times ill just highshot the sock from across the room, and it will remain on the nozzle until I disturb it again, and some times ill Gordon Ramsay with tonks and a flower gently put it on the nozzle, and itll fall off because I sneezed..
Seems too loose to hold on consistently.

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My silicone sock was fine while printing some roles of ABS (3kg) and ASA (3kg) as well as PLA Matte (about 5 kg).

However as I printed Bambu PETG HF the silicone socks died rapidly. I did print about 7 kg of it and for 3 socks the small part between the nozzle hole and the other hole was hardened very fast and broke a bit later.

So it may be material dependent. I usually do not use PETG and only had broken silicone socks while using PETG HF this was about 150h out of 1000 h overall with other filaments.

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I have been using this printer to primarily print ABS and PLA. I have tried some PA6 but can not get that stuff to print without warping so I stopped.

Watching it print, the nozzle covers are coming off during color change when it moves across the nozzle cleaner when removing the purge. it just hits it and it forces it off every time.

I had multiple Brocken socks, but I never had a sock going off mid print. I print multi color/material more often as single color/material.

Maybe there is something going on with your purge wiper?

thats what it, during the purge wipe it knocks it off.

Not to split hairs, but over engineered usually means it’s built too good. Over complicated or design flaws usually dont end up in the over engineered bucket. While it might be technically right to use it I dont see many people saying this thing that has issues with this part wearing out or falling off as too complicated or design creep. Its a weak spot and even the P2S uses that sock.

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That is true, ya, overly complicated best fits this. :grinning_face:

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When you push on the orange lever at the back, the one with 2 screws, it lifts the wiper but when you release it, does the wiper comes down. Mine would sometimes stick inside the purge container back wall and the wiper would only release during the actual wipe due to vibrations.

I added some grease between the lever at its angle inside and the purge container back wall, it now releases easily, no more wiper sticking upwards

You’re mixing incompatible materials, so yes. You will be very likely to get clogs compared to normal. There are warnings about this and the answer is to simply purge the chamber more when you switch.

On the P2S I run 750mm³ flush volume when I switch from PLA→ PETG or vice versa because at 700mm³ I got contamination in my print. That’s the kind of flush volume it takes to actually purge with incompatible materials. Since it’s the same nozzle unit, I’d expect the same to be a good starting point for the H2 series. You can cheat a little bit with compatible materials like ABS & ASA. They should mix fine, so the color change is the only main concern.

This is and isn’t Bambu’s fault. It IS in the way that they designed their printers to hold that much volume. It ISN’T because the user is supposed to know to purge properly in between materials.

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If you think H2D is overengineered, wait to check an H2C in person lol

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had a H2D from the very release, its done thousands of hours, not a single issue, I keep it well maintained and its flawless, no issues or complaints at all.

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I’ve read quite a few posts about the silicone sock on the HD2 and I lost mine twice and I do believe it was the wiper. PETG and PLA that really only been the only things on this machine thus far but it really did make a mess. Other than that the quick removable nozzle I had some clogging that backed the material up through the silicone sock and I had one heck of a time getting my clamp to open and then he gave me problems trying to get to close properly with future nozzle changes. As far as clogging I’ve had it happen twice on the left nozzle and not sure why. But it’s quite a machine and these little issues are not that big a deal compared to what it’s capable of doing as a printer is concerned.

I do what I used to do when I ran Ultimakers: I reserve a nozzle for each material and only use it for one type.

It’s a bit of a pain swapping the nozzles, but I haven’t had any clogging.

It’s certainly a lot cheaper to do this in the BL ecosystem than it was for UM!

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I’m printing quite a bit across several nozzles using several different materials. Not one clog, not one sock falling off. Same with over 10000 hours on my P1. Only clog I had was running wet TPU through a .4 nozzle, and I was warned not too.
Not claiming it’s not happening. I’m wondering why and is it the sock or something else?

As for clogs, I’ve lived so dangerously that I don’t do cold pulls.

I mention this because going through posts I see some that have the problem with X on the H2D and some who have no issues at all. The favorite answer would be bad batches. I can’t believe that’s the issue. So what else could it be?

I’ve gotten exactly two clogged nozzles across all my Bambu printers in the course of a couple of years.

  1. I was printing PLA on a hot day and didn’t have the top or door open.
  2. I was printing some PETG-CF and didn’t dry it fully enough. The clogged nozzle wasn’t the only issue, but it was the one that made me go oh, maybe I should dry it some more. New nozzle and dried properly, the rest of the roll went through without troubles or defects.
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