Lidar is only used for the first layer. Why not add light for the following layers? I soldered 2 original lights together.
It almost instantly broke because I suck at surface-mounted soldering and because I used too short wires, but it’s something worth experimenting with. They both are working from the same power source. I just want a less flimzy solution which I can tape down right behind the door to help with illumination of tall prints.
Try this or equal.
https://www.printables.com/model/365027-bambulab-top-glass-riser-4-cob-led-remix-with-led-
I agree, the light in the current design is frustratingly aweful.
However, based on the “rushed” design of lighting that Bambu did with the X1 and P1, I somehow don’t see this as being on their radar. Also, it’s not as simple as just hanging another bulb as was scene in the early designs where it supposedly interfered with LIDAR and they had to physically move the light to where it is now. But I have a P1 so I don’t have a dog in this fight. You consider, first, there’s little to no benefit to the print quality itself but is more a quality of life issue.
If one looks at some of the promotional images that are still out there on the web, you can see that the early concepts were quite different.
I was inspired by this light but the one drawback I found is that the orientation of the light itself invites glare in the chamber making time-lapse photos look horrible - not that the current light is any better. But I fell in love with the concept so I set about designing my own. This is one of those designs that I’ve been too lazy to upload and have held back on uploading to Makerworld until they get their Sh*t together.
My design took the concept and eliminated the TPU bezel and reversed the direction of the LED light strip so that the LED is actually facing away from the bed and being reflected off the black PETG. This offset lighting creates a much more diffused light than the original design. Reversing the light strip also made installation much easier because I could rely more on the adhesive backing. I also raised the lip substantially to provide for a more secure tray for the glass lid. You can see that extension by the blueish rectangle which represents double the previous lip height.
Here’s the CAD cross section.
My office is kept dark so the light you see is solely from the overhead bezel/glass cover.
Here’s a shot from the printer Camera.
And this one was with the bed lowered to near bottom of the printer. Again, the light is in a darkened room where the sole light your are seeing is from the overhead . Note the fact that it lights the object evenly.
Now Bambu could design something like this much better than I did, but what does that buy them? Would it sell any more printers? Somehow I can’t see that even though I might have paid as much more as $25 if it had that option.
Do you have a STL file for your design?
I have both my STEP files from the original CAD I drew up as well as STL. I guess I could post it up on Printables or Thingiverse. Which do you prefer? I didn’t do so before because I just saw it as a me-too design and didn’t feel it warranted an upload.
Hi,
On the contrary, your design is an improved adaptation!the one on printables has sharp corners where you have to attach the Coblights which gives a problem in the corners. I hope yours has rounded corners.
So please upload your design to printables.
Looking forward to print it!
Thanks,
Albert
OK. FWIW, I published it.
Bambu P1P Reverse LED Top Glass Riser
https://www.printables.com/model/633893-bambu-p1p-reverse-led-top-glass-riser
I used some self adhesive LED strips taped to the left side of the enclosure - one behind the fan and one behind the front left z-screw so you can’t see them when looking through the glass. Works great, and I hooked them up to the same power supply I used to power the LED riser linked above.
It’s bright as the sun in the enclosure now and the time lapses look excellent, even on very tall prints.
I want an LED on the bottom of the print head to illuminate what it’s currently printing and anything else in it’s shadow.
I can get a bright light to shine in and make just about everything else easy to see, it’s what’s around the print head that I keep a flashlight close by to check on.
Hello
everyone, regardless of the LED riser utilized, we have created a new iteration of an intelligent LED control system. The underlying technology is not novel but relies on the MQTT protocol transmitted through the printer’s WiFi. I previously acquired a controller from another manufacturer that was overly intricate in certain aspects. By using our PCB board with a 5V LED strip, we obtain two benefits:
power is sourced through a standard mobile phone charging cable with a 2A capacity.
At 5V, we can use a WS2812-b strip enabling us to control each LED individually. This expands our lighting capabilities significantly (WLED).
We have chosen to use an external power source intentionally because interfering with the printer’s internal power supply is not advisable. Although it may be feasible to extract 5V from the printer for this purpose, it would invalidate our print’s warranty.
Regarding the fundamental functions:
The printer automatically switches on the LED, which can also be turned off through the printer display.
To prevent reflections during flow calibration in lidar measurement, the light switches off automatically. Once the measurement finishes, the light turns on automatically.
In case of an error detected by the printer, the LED shifts to fault mode and turns red. Once the error gets fixed, the printer automatically turns the LED back on.
The printer’s basic functions entail automatic LED activation that can be deactivated using the printer display.
During lidar measurement, the light automatically switches off to prevent reflections while calibrating the flow. Once the measurement is done, the light turns on again.
In case of any errors detected, the LED switches to the error mode and changes colour to red. If the error is resolved, the printer LED switches back to its usual white colour.
Once the printing is finished, the LED changes to green. After 5 minutes, it returns to white.
However, please bear in mind that we are not a corporation but merely two hobbyists who take pleasure in finding solutions to problems.
Is this BL-LED or are you talking about something else? Link?
What’s with the enigma? Who’s “we”?
Are “we” in any jeopardy of seeing a link to this concept anytime in the near future?
Sorry but I left my mind-reading glasses on the bus. 
This guy really came in here and dropped features for an absolutely gold upgrade and then left us with no link and has no other activity on these forums 
Post more details about this project, the people want to see it!
I settled on making my own vertical light. Now I want camera exposure control because mine is getting stuck.
I don’t know about this project. I do know another project entering the market. This controller is called the “Lumin”. Search on Google for “lumin bambu lab led controller”
Manually switching resolutions between 720/1080 and back may force an exposure refresh.
It does, and I’ve been using it for ages, but it can crash camera. When doing 3 days prints, those crashes are undesirable, to say the least. I’ve been on support about this case for a long time, and they promised to fix in next update, and closed it.
I would avoid using PWM to control LED brightness, at least whenever the lidar might be actively scanning the surface. I don’t have proof that it would be a problem, but it seems like a sensible precaution. I plan to have supplemental LEDs turned completely off when the lidar is busy reading. I figure the easiest thing would be to only enable supplemental LED’s if the built-in LED strip is lit, so then you would parallel whatever bambu lab has already decided is best practice.
Both the Lumin and Blled will turn off the led strip while Lidar scanning is active.
