I think that’s because they designed it for the world
Rather than the country that needs special plugs for a washing machine
I’ve been wanting more power on the heated bed since heated beds first existed
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I don’t like this aspect either, but it can be seen as them giving people what they want. People have complained about waiting for the bed to warm up for as long as 3D printing has been a thing. Also, I’m not sure testing was a real problem here. Because if you don’t have LED lighting on the same circuit, most people would be fine with it taking 11 amps on a 15 amp circuit for 30 seconds to a minute. Its only the voltage sensitive devices that will show you there is a problem. My line drops about 2.5 volts which causes flickering of the LED lights, but the basic incandescent bulbs don’t change, nor do any of the other devices (TVs and PCs).
There are some things that are difficult to test for (especially out of market) and the users will not to sus out for you. The mark of a good manufacturer is how quickly they test and address the fixes.
The inconsistency might be less obvious on 120V as the bed has certainly time to equalize just by taking longer to reach the set temp. On my 240V bed, I had adhesion issue on the left bottom side that seems to be fixed.
Otherwise, the firmware details are here https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2d-firmware-v01-01-02-00-now-in-public-beta/
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That makes much more sense than the blanket suggestion that seems to be pushed around without limits in the forum. I did find by the time the the print starts I was seeing 1-3C differences across the bed (which is pretty excellent).
Sorry to suggest the 240V machines were as well moderated as my 120V machine.
Just bought one for 3060 for combo. I told my dad he owes me 200 dollars.
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I’m extremely happy with mine. Received it today and no issues so far with multiple large prints.
I think the faster bed heat up requests were by users that didnt know what they needed, or didnt understand metal expansion/contraction on larger than 256mm parts over time. I guarantee the gantry and bed arent done expanding before the print starts. Probably more of an issue for people printing high temp materials with the chamber heater. Probably wont notice it if youre only heating the bed to 65c and the chamber is vented. Ill be able to really test its limits this weekend.
The plus 4 slowly heats the bed and then the chamber afterwards. While the chamber heats, the bed “settles”. Then it goes into the bed leveling. I only print high temp heated chamber parts with this printer. The only warp or adhesion loss I had was when trying tonprint an x1c bed plate out of Ultem. Small ultem prints stuck to the bed fine.
The k2 plus does it in a dumb way and requires intervention. It heats the bed super fast and then starts the bed leveling while heating the chamber. Anything but pla requires a heat soak or 1st layers look like ■■■■.
We all know the xl gets around it by using expensive tiles.
Klipper printers let you set the max % for the bed. 70%(.7) of max value etc. They also let you change the frequency to match your input frequency(50hz or 60hz), which stops the light flickering.
I have noticed that more than any other bambu printer, people are suggesting expensive glue. Glue should never ever be needed
On my Prusa MK3S, I used body powder to reduce PETG’s excessive adhesion. With my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, I now use Magigoo (except for PLA) as both an adhesive and a release agent. It’s not very expensive—I’ve logged over 2000 hours of printing so far and still have more than half of the original Magigoo bottle left.
I print directly on a clean carbon fiber plate—no PEI or any other surface material. While I can get away with printing small models in materials like PPA-CF without glue, printing on a fully packed build plate becomes a gamble without it, regardless of settings or surface prep. Glue simply makes the process far more consistent and reliable. In my view, glue is cheaper than a failed print—both in terms of the lost model and the wasted time.
I’ve also added a custom start code to my current 3D printer that heats up the build plate and then waits 10 minutes before beginning the print. This allows for thermal expansion of the metal parts to stabilize, which can help improve consistency. It’s something I might also implement on the H2D, depending on how it performs.
That said, this workflow may change once I begin working with my H2D. I’ll know in a few weeks whether the results differ with that setup
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This is the way.
“I’ve also added a custom start code to my current 3D printer that heats up the build plate and then waits 10 minutes before beginning the print. This allows for thermal expansion of the metal parts to stabilize”
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Yup. On my X1C I found that 5 minutes of heat-soak time seemed to be sufficient, but maybe on H2D ten minutes would be better given the H2D’s bigger size. Because I’m hearing two votes for 10 minutes on this thread, I’d start with that. It’s just one line of g-code. Here’s what I used on my X1C:
I presume on the H2D the corresponding line would therefore be:
G4 S600; Wait 600 seconds (10 minutes)
Also, having tried both, I found that for PETG, garolite (g10) works better than a wham bam carbon fiber build plate, and no magigoo required either. In my A-B comparison on my X1C, I found that PETG sticks better to g10 when the build plate is hot and releases fully when the g10 cools to ambient. My only problem so far: I haven’t yet found a garolite H2D build plate. No other printer has 350x320mm build plate dimensions. So, I’m toying with the idea of starting with a 350x350mm garolite sheet and cutting it down to 350x320mm while being mindful of using proper PPE to avoid inhaling any of the glass dust that might be created. If anyone has a better idea, please do post or PM and let me know.
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I received it today. So far, so good.
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Nowhere… out of his review of what’s maybe posted here. Which is obviously irrelevant. Id bet maybe 5% might have some issues. But that’s a guess as very few folks will post its working well. Whereas most will post if a problem. X1CC had minor issues when released. So will EVERY MACHINE. Nothing is perfect. If you have the need to buy, then buy one, i wouldn’t wait 6 months to have issues, whatever is found that bambu can fix, maybe a couple months.
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You’ll likely find that PLA works flawlessly. For that reason, after you get your feet wet, a good exercise is to dial-in a new non-PLA filament. That will give you a better feel for the machine.
@NeverDie I stopped using temp towers right after I threw my Ender 3 out the window (literally). I had 15k hours on my X1C before selling and haven’t printed a tower once.
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It’s a 50/50 gamble, I suggest you to wait until late June before you pull the trigger.
Mine arrived yesterday - shipped to UK from China in 3 days then sat with UK courier for 14 days until yesterday. Unpacked carefully with video recording the process (just in case) as BL suggest - all fine - ran tests - all fine - did upgrades - all fine - now purring away printing another wonderful plastic relic for my shelf in 2 colours quickly - magic!. So far so good - very impressed - very well built.
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I forgot to say that the ability to do petg and pla supports is making my life so much easier.
I know of course it can be done with one nozzle but the sheer luxury of prints that just separate from the supports easily is very addictive.
I agree also that the majority of “issues” are probably only affecting a minority, mine has had zero issues, just print and go. Depends whether you feel its worth your time micro managing something like hot bed temps or you just want the product.
There should be a calibration after upgrades 
In my view, H2D does not replace the P1S. If a print doesn’ benefit from having two nozzles or the bigger plate size, P1S (or X1, A1, A1 mini) is the tool to use.
Why is the H2D not the tool to use? It uses more energy I guess but is there something else that I’m missing?
I’m giving my X1c away. I just don’t have the room to keep both.
It replaced my P1S. I think you are looking at this from the wrong perspective. I’ll stop short of fully disagreeing, because I imagine you mean, they wouldn’t normally be competition to each other. Which is correct. A mid-range product shouldn’t compete with a top of the range product, but in Bambu’s world it always has. It’s this odd fact that puts the H2D inline to “replace” P1S’s out there. The P1S and the X1C were battling tooth and nail, with the P1S likely winning the sales battle. As such… I’m finding it very reasonable to see people who thought the P1S was the best buy previously, now see the H2D as a reasonable upgrade.
But as you mention, not everyone needs a dual head printer. Not everyone wants a dual head printer. And just about no one wants to pay for a dual head printer. However, I’ll stick my neck out and say the H2D is a significant step ahead of everything before it. While the previous printers will match it in quality (mostly) and best it in speed (for some things), they don’t have the same polish. The fit and finish is in another league. The lack of slapping and clunking (except for the new cutter) is refreshing. And the substantially smoother and quieter running is a Godsend. For me, the ability to mix materials is like discovering 3D printing all over. That alone, is worth the price of admission, but the extra build area is also great (even though I’ll rarely use it).
So, while it’s not for everyone, if you value the things it offers, it will be a reasonable upgrade for any previous Bambu Lab user. However, the opposite is also true… if you don’t need what it offers, the value is much lower and passing make sense.
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