I would love to have feedback about your printers. I’m starting 3d printing with an artilhery x2…
And as I really liked 3D printing, I would like to purchase something more modern and of better quality… what are the strengths and weaknesses of Bambu?
I would love to have feedback about your printers. I’m starting 3d printing with an artilhery x2…
Had my X1C for 2 months now and no failures in over 400hrs of printing, had a Ender 3 S1Pro before and nothing but issues, bed levelling, first layer adhesion etc etc, hated it, love Bambu Labs and couldn’t advise more to get one
Put this to print yesterday, basic setting and left to print
How long does it take to print? Does the lead work well?
customer support feedback?
7hrs for that above on normal speed, CS is getting better than it was
for parts with tolerances, are the tolerances good?
Well let me put it this way, things I printed on my Ender needed sanding or even Dremelling to be able to fit or slide, re-printed many again on my X1C and not one has needed adjustment, not even in the slicer before printing
Bambu X1C is a very good printer for the price , for me is probably best on the market for that price
- Print speed is amazing but you find out that you cant use that maximum speed as the materials will not allow it . How long from 25min to 24+ Hours depends , but is 2x faster than Prusa mk3s with out any mods
- HW is really good
- Support for simple things ok initial response with in a day or two , but i have open ticket for over 2 weeks still with out solution. and I would not count on it unless a HW issue .
- Best thing is the auto-leveling, Z calibration, the chamber, and the AMS
- 95% of the time just works
- Auto flow gives acceptable results depending on the requirements
- Chamber is well done for this price
- cloud printing works great
- The people in the forum are great and supportive, and for daily issues better than the Bambu support
- Tolerance now with in 0.05mm more often 0.1mm , but with prusa i get 0.05mm more consistently with less play. Out of the box with auto flow i got 0.15mm- 0.20mm but that is tunning related as well and filament type
- Not an easy nozzle swap if you use 0.6,0.8 , 0.4, 0.2
- it has it quirks as any other 3D printer , but the least amount from what i used
- no dual extruder
- the auto flow just not good enough , but no other printer has it in this class . And personally i think is not needed for 3d Printing
- Local Lan mode is a bit iffy
- Soft TPU no good , i still use my Prusa for TPU , but usable with some minor mods and patience
- top layer on Prusa is better , but got it very close now
Prusa mk3S is also very good printer and with some mods now almost as fast as the X1C, but Mk4 comes as fast as X1C out of the box
Ender 3SPro is … but can become a good one with many modifications
Voron is great if you have the knowledge and patience
Also depends on the budget , there are better ones like Ultimaker S5/S7 but the same setup is 6-7 times more expensive .
for day to day print X1C with AMS is the best solution, acceptable prints with in 20-30 Minutes of delivery . There might be some quirks just look around the forum , but do not get stressed we are sharing mainly when we have problems
I was thinking to get one P1S as an additional, but if i get a second Bambu would be X1C , based on the forum responses
in general X1C or Prusa Mk4 are my current picks for this price range with slightly towards X1C due to the better chamber and better AMS , but that is because i already have Prusa for the tasks i need it for
I can confirm what others said. It is a game-changing printer.
Regarding the models, it depends on what you are looking for.
The X1C is still the flagship model but also the most expensive.
Yet the P1S shares many features at a lower cost.
Strengths: the best (or within the best) printer(s) for the price. It is print, print, print,… print, print, print… print, print, print… minor troubleshooting… print, print, print… I was amazed at the empty spools in the first month.
Many improvements can be made, but not weakness.
I only have one alert to avoid being an unsatisfied user, especially as you are already into 3D printing and may be accustomed to the community tinkering. Bambu Labs is a closed ecosystem, which brings many advantages but creates a specific dependence on them. They have been clear about their policy, so either accept it or not.
but how does the flow work in the p1s and the calibrations?
I wanted the x1 for the lidar and anti-vibration system. and if this really works?
- Calibration can be a controversial topic. So, in a short version, you can carry out a conventional manual calibration as in other printers and not be limited to the Bambu Labs procedure, nor to only flow and pressure advance. Maybe Orca Sliver entails better built-in tools for the purpose. There are many tutorials online, and if correctly done, your results have the potential to be better.
- Alternatively, Bambu implemented a simplified procedure to calibrate the flow dynamics (aka pressure advance) and flow rate (maybe flow ratio or extrusion multiplier). The fully automated calibration is limited to the X1C and 0.4 mm nozzle. The process reliability is also limited to smooth plates (cool, eng, and high temp) and opaque and dry filaments.
- It works surprisingly well, but it depends on your expectations. It is simple, fast and reliable, which is practical; however, if you aim for perfection, I would advise you to go with a conventional methodology at the expense of time and filament.
- For the non-lidar printers (e.g. P1S), the process is called “manual calibration”. In short, for both PA and flow ratio, it prints a calibration file, which you access to determine the best setting, and ends with you providing the corresponding value in Bambu Studio, which saves it.
- Note: flow ratio is saved in your filament preset (locally and in the cloud) and pressure advance in the printer.
- I and many could spend hours describing details and limitations, but you can get overall information here:
*Flow Dynamics Calibration | Bambu Lab Wiki
*Flow Rate Calibration | Bambu Lab Wiki
I mention the P1S as it seems to have an excellent cost/feature ratio. It, of course, depends on what your goals are. Bambu Labs offers diversified printers; the best depends on your goals and budget.
The X1C is still (cannot be precise for how long) the flagship printer, so if money is not a concern and the additional features are looked for, there is no decision to make.
As for the flow ratio, the LIDAR works well in the first layer and nozzle height assessment, with limitations (e.g. textured PEI plate) and sometimes issues. But it can also be subjective as it depends on expectations.
The active vibration system seems to work well. Yet, I have the X1C over a 20kg marble slab with an additional foam layer, so it is not the best test case.
I agree with everything @JayZay already pointed
further there are few extra difference between X1C and P1S
- X1C comes with 2 hardened nozzles 0.04 , while the P1S comes with normal stainless , but you can get hardened steel for P1S i think around 15USD only the nozzle
- X1C uses some how the lidar to improve or check the bed leveling not sure how or if that matters at all
- X1C has miles better camera, and spaghetti detection - not related to printing but a very nice features
- X1C has a plate type detection using the lidar only an issue if you put in the slicer or in the printer the wrong plate will stop it and ask me if i am ok with that to continue. I have done it quite a few times
- X1C has much better control panel
- X1C extruder is slightly better organized but that does not matter
It is about 400USD difference and if you add the hardend nozzle then the difference 370USD
I personally would go for first Bambu printer to X1C and if i need second the P1S , but that is a bit of budget question and some extra features, but i keep changing my mind as i do not use any of the lidar features apart from plate detection , but love the camera and the control panel , even i only use it once in a while
Over all they are very close for most tasks and is a personal choice , and budget .
If you are ok with a bit extra cash go for X1C , if tide budget P1S , but in both cases would strongly recommend AMS
on the Auto dynamic flow calibration of X1C is a nice feature for first print especially on unknown filament , but i personally find it useless . But as @JayZay mentioned for average person is great
Thank you… I’m confused… because I have an artillery x2 and either I don’t know how to work in 3D printing or the machine has problems…
The problem is money but I also didn’t want to be buying a P1S and in six months it would be out of date…
But thanks for the clarification.
If you’re budget-constrained, the X1C does not seem a reasonable choice.
I agree with Vladimir; the AMS is a must to experience the BL ecosystem.
There is no certainty when new printer models or generations will be released. But in 6 months, it is likely to have more recent models.
But if P1S is “outdated”, the X1C will also be.
And for sure that you wait another six months, new models may be released or announced.
Sidewinder X2 specs are distinguishable, i.e. a PLA large-volume printer, which you will not get with any current BL printer model. So, what is your goal for prints?
Thank you, for now it was time to try the best material, I think what would be used most was carbon fiber… would it be for prototyping, do you recommend x1c? Do you know of a video showing how to print on carbon fiber?
At this point I’ve resisted, but it takes up to 5 days for the company’s details to be confirmed.
For prototyping, any will work.
Regarding CF use, it depends on what composite you are looking at.
And also the CF ratio.
If you focus on using the printer for engineering-grade filaments, e.g., PA-CF, PET-CF, PC-CF, the best would be the X1C. Note, however, that:
- You must buy a 0.6mm hardened steel hotend or nozzle;
- Automatic calibration process won’t work;
But you’ll be successful with P1S with these upgrades:
- buy a 0.6mm hardened steel hotend or nozzle;
- acquire the hardened steel extruder gear assembly;
In any case, these filaments are on the AMS blocklist.
If you don’t have a dehumidifier, add it as mandatory to the expenses list.
So, with budget limitations, I would consider the P1S, as any savings are welcome for the dehumidifier, consumable accessories that will wear quickly, and, most importantly, the costly filament. Also, you may consider adding some accessories and different bed sheets.
I am assuming that you don’t have experience with these filaments. If true, take some time to understand the details.
Out of topic: are you running the sidewinder with stock firmware?
But the x1c is not the only one that works originally with carbon fiber. or to work with carbon fiber you have to do all these upgrades.
in p1s there is no reference to the use of carbon fiber.
CF is very generic. The blend materials and CF concentration result in different advantages and requisites.
A simple example is PETG-CF and PET-CF from BL, which are, in my opinion, entirely distinct. The differences can be even more pronounced, e.g. look at Markforged Onyx filament.
The X1C stock components include all metal, a hardened steel extruder and a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle. For printing the most abrasive filaments (e.g. PA-CF), a larger nozzle diameter (e.g. 0.6mm) is highly recommended to avoid nasty clogs (and nasty is me being a gentleman).
The P1S stock entails an all-metal, stainless steel extruder and a 0.4mm stainless steel nozzle. So, in addition to the 0.6 mm hardened steel hotend, it is also advisable to upgrade the extruder with the hardened steel gear (<25€). Note that these components are BL official and not third-party add-ons.
If, for example, what you want is printing PLA-CF, the 0.4 mm hardened steel nozzle is enough, and the AMS works. PLA is less abrasive than PA, and the CF concentration is likely to be lower.
It will be a matter of experimenting with the materials but pla-cf looks good to me.
but with pla-cf it does all the checks, and use the lidar, and the
I see that I don’t know a lot of the materials… do you know of any website that provides information on all the materials that exist?
I thought that Pla was PLA, and that there wasn’t a series of PLA materials.
Thank you this helps a lot…
I think you want an X1C unless you’re only looking at CF for cosmetics or cool factor. I bought an X1C as my first 3D printer with the intent to print functional parts and the intent to use CF filaments. I’m very happy and have gone through quite some learning process (and have a lot more to learn!). Some of my observations so far:
- with the X1C you’re all set for more “advanced” filaments so you can focus on printing and learning vs. trying to upgrade or making the impossible happen (some stuff is out of reach and requires forking out at least 2x in terms of printer)
- filaments that use CF for strength are $$ to $$$, the difference in price between P1S and X1C is chump change (filaments that have low proportions of CF are not that expensive so if that’s all you want then that’s a different matter)
- in my experience, adding CF to a filament improves printability, reduces warping, and increases stiffness to some degree, but probably makes Z-layer adhesion worse and most likely doesn’t improve breaking strength; it doesn’t suddenly make the filament 2x better in all dimensions, most likely not even in one
- I’m finding that in terms of strength, I can almost always do enough using std filament by designing my part for 3D printing, for example making it a bit beefier, or adding cutouts to get more walls, etc.; so I’m constantly wondering “do I print this in $$ CF filament or can I just add a few mm over there?”
- for me the tough design problems tend to involve Z-layer adhesion and there CF seems to generally make things worse
- I do appreciate CF for reduced warping with ASA (for example) but I suspect that a fairly low percent of CF can accomplish that
So I have to say that overall my excitement about the CF filaments has been tempered a bit as I’ve learned and compared models printed both with and without CF. Don’t get me wrong, CF can help, but it’s not the panacea. So to come back to your original question, the X1C has been really awesome at letting me focus on printing and learning the ins and outs of various filaments. I’ve been able to entirely focus on 3D modeling, filament tuning, and printing.
Bambu does had a Filament Guide. If you want more info on a specific filament you can download the technical data sheets (TDS) on the respective filament page.