Identical corners, one rounded, one straight, neither have seam

Bambu Lab X1 Series Bambu Lab X1C
1

So I’ve been trying to dial in my printer because it has been the worst printer experience I’ve ever had, nothing works the first 5 times, everything needs to be perfectly calibrated to get even basic results. Extremely disappointed.

In one of my recent calibration prints, I wanted to improve the awful bridging/overhangs I’ve been getting, so I printed an arch shape, as seen in the pictures. As is typical with my experience, trying to solve 1 issue unveils plenty more.

Despite the corners on the model being identical, the inside edges have significant discrepancies. Not only are they NOT what is in the model, but they’re not even equal among themselves. Half the corners are sharp, as they should be, and the other half are rounded, which they should NOT be.

After printing this multiple times, the issue is consistent.

IMG_07712
IMG_077121920×2560 232 KB

Screenshot 2024-11-15 0102282
Screenshot 2024-11-15 01022822497×1209 250 KB

As seen in the picture, the left side top edge (1, or blue) is quite rounded, while the right side top edge (2, or pink) is quite sharp, neither are close to the 90 degrees of the model, but the right is close enough, I suppose. If I flipped this model over, it would look the same (left side curved, right side straight).

Both sides look DISSIMILAR to the 3D model, the curved side is not accurate, and the sharper side looks like it has a bump along it.

What’s unbelievably frustrating is that the issue STARTS BEFORE THE BRIDGING/OVERHANG EVEN STARTS… Why the h*ll is it starting at the bottom?

Please someone help me, I’m ready to toss my printer out the window and revert to the Ender 3.

2

Can you add some info about the nozzle, filament and settings? Specifically, which standard settings is the print based on, and which of these have been changed to something non-standard/custom?
Is the wall generator Classic or Arachne?

3

Please, also provide a 3mf, so we may view it in Bambu Studio ourselves.

4

Might be caused by the movement direction. So if on both legs the nozzle goes clockwise it would result in both legs being extruded in a different manner… Is the issue reversed on the other side of the bridge?

I dont have a solution, but this might help narrow dawn the problem.

5

0.4 mm nozzle, Bambu ABS, identical results on completely stock Bambu Studio ABS filament settings + stock 0.16 mm High Quality layer height settings, AND very customized Orca Slicer + very customized 0.16 mm layer settings. Classic wall generator for both.

6

Yes, it is on the other side as well. Each leg has a rounded and a sharp inside (part of the arch) edge. In both instances, it’s the ‘later’ printed edge that is sharp/squished.

7

Good idea.

arch_overhang.3mf (51.0 KB)

8

I’m doing a test print now.

I did note you have ABS on a cool plate, this brings up a warning telling you this combination is not recommended.

I note this is very small, can I assume this is not the final model, but, a test version?

If not, the easiest way to print this would be on its side as it gets rid of any overhangs.

9

Works perfectly for me.

I needed to make some changes.

  • Brim as the part was tiny
  • P1S rather than your printer
  • PLA not ABS
  • Textured plate not smooth

I am beginning to suspect the issue is the ABS and cool plate combination due to the working I received when I tried to slice it.

Is the part you sent me the same part you tried printing?

10

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding you, but I’m printing this on a heated PEI plate, not a cool plate.

Also, this is a sacrificial print with no purpose other than stress testing the overhangs, but now it’s for testing the other issues mentioned lol

PLA tends to print with far fewer issues for me, but ABS is a must (or ASA, which I have ordered to try too). What bothers me is that the issues are consistent, meaning it has to be ‘fixable’ I would assume.

11

The print profile you supplied had the cool plate pre-selected.

12

I’m not sure why that is because I had textured PEI selected when I shared the .3mf. Maybe a bug.

Even when I run this print at super slow speeds with Orca Slicer, these issues are the same.

13

IMG_5775
IMG_57751334×1130 133 KB

14

Interesting… are you able to take a picture where the lighting shows both edges closest to the camera? This way I can rule out the color of the filament.

That is ABS, correct?

Otherwise I’m going to swap hotends and see if that fixes the issue.

15

It is PLA not ABS.

I will run an ABS test.

16

I suffer from tremors, this is the best photo I could take.

Printed with

  • P1S
  • Textured plate
  • BL ABS

All other settings are from your profile.

It looks good to me. The shape is squared, the very close photo is causing force perception issues.

IMG_5780
IMG_57801708×1196 602 KB

17

Yours definitely looks better than mine. Would you mind sharing your settings, if there’s an easy way to do that?

Just tried it on a 2 mm nozzle and I have the same issue, even on completely stock settings.

I could be wrong, but I think I see more curvature on the left than the right on yours too, though far less than mine. Your overhangs and bridging look like a completely different printer than mine, mine is giving me worse results than my original Ender from a decade ago, yours look very clean.

By the way, thank you a TON for helping!

18

It is the same as yours with the changes I made noted previously.

arch_overhang_MalcTheOracle.3mf (50.0 KB)