I have never done that test but i have done a different one and all my Bambu printers were able to move the the part all the way down to .1mm. The H series should be able to do it no problem without the vision encoder. You should try a different test. Your printer has to be more accurate than that.
Well, for one thing, the X1C isn’t the same printer. And eSUN PLA isn’t Bambu PLA Basic (the filament in that print profile). Just between those two factors IMHO the test doesn’t necessarily produce relevant results (by default).
Just one direct example, when you switch that profile from the default X1C to an H2C, it changes the custom print speeds back to (faster) defaults. For the walls and top surface, which are significant here.
It’s hard to give more advice w/out seeing your results, I think. There are many different ways to improve print quality and accuracy, it’s kinda shooting in the dark w/out more details. IMHO. Dry the filament, slow it down… print smaller pieces until you get it close.
-Max
PS. Why does that model waste your filament printing fused blocks in the first place? The two on the left front and back.
I do a lot of functional prints - in fact almost everyhing I print is a machine part of some type. I turn on all the “before print” calibrations in bambu slicer (when you press print, these options appear), and I use the vision encoder plate, and I don’t have much trouble with tolerances for models that are designed for 3d printing (i.e. they are +0,20 or 0.30mm diameter for a regular fit between pins and holes)
That being said I am not using eSun PLA and it’s possible it shrinks weirdly. But you can calibrate it for that. Although doesn’t eSUN have their setitngs progreammed into Bambu studio? Althogu it would not suprise me if all of their batches are different. But when I use PLA it is Bambu or SUNLU and they are completely fine. I made the mistakle of using 3DQF eco PLA once and that was terrible.
I find it a bit odd that people are willing to spend around $2500 on a 3D printer (combo, no laser module), but then decide to skip the vision encoder plate.
The H2C is a production machine, not really a hobby toy — at least that’s how I see it.
If hou are only printing figurines for production on the H2C (that’s where the multi color stuff is most common) you don’t really need a Vision Encoder plate.
If you are printing a lot of Engineering stuff, the Vision Encoder plate is a valid investment.
Fully agree. The caliper in the model might be more accurate (assuming profile is properly tuned) but the relative distance between pin and hole will not change with the vision encoder.
I got the vision encode plate and ran the calibration. I also tuned the filament I used to reprint the test. I got to 0.1mm fit on the vertical tests, for the z test, think I got to 0.24, IIRC.
