Thanks for the tip. And I like the price too - at around $20 per kg, it’s at the lower end in my country. I’m not a fan of the cardboard spools, however.
I usually run Bambu Lab PLA Matte and PETG-HF - which both perform great. For large batches of black and white PLA, I go with Kingroon as they’re so cheap and print extremely well - in fact, it’s highest surface quality I’ve ever had with PLA. And I run it at 19 mm3/s, so it’s fairly fast too.
We just keep learning…. Not all filament is created equal and there is trial and error, calibration, tweaking and tuning. You get out what you put in etc if you are looking for consistency and success when 3D printing. Also depends on what you’re printing too. Some parts don’t need to look beautiful on the outside etc. just so many variables and skill sets that can completely make or break a creator.
Good point - I know that both Bambu black Basic and Matte PLA produced a very matte dry looking finish with varying sheen banding.
I don’t have that pic anymore and that was a year ago when I first started.
It also required so many slicer adjustments to try and get it right - especially if the enclosure had through holes.
People were telling me to use Orca slicer And print temperature towers and all these steps and it was such a hassle - I just resulted back to my Prusa equipment to print the outer enclosures that I needed
I have a post on here that has some pictures of it.
The only way to achieve a consistent result on the outer wall with that PLA was to not have holes in the enclosure (according to Bambu Support) and then they told me to drill my own holes which only risks me damaging the final product.
I recently learned about PETG HF And was very impressed and happy with it However it was a bit too flexible and soft for some of my applications. Also required me to dry it for about 12 hours before I could use it and occasionally the refills that I bought from them were damaged or did not fit on the reusable spool.
And then recently learned about turbo PLA which is now readily available and was so happy that it worked really well without any adjustments
So depending on your needs / project results may vary - I searched the forums and posted a question asking if anyone had an Overture PLA turbo profile or use this and there was little information
so I was able to order this and get it the next day and peform my test and was very pleased with the results
So from the standpoint of outdoor wall appearance and strength with no hassles, this definitely does fit the bill for me.
Not sure that’s universally true.
I’ve never had issue with either black, and I’ve printed quite a bit of it. Never messed with the settings for either. Never had to.
I am not sure I understand this. Not disputing what you’re saying, asking if you could clarify “drill holes in the enclosure”.
Are you saying support asked you to drill holes into the printers enclosure or something else?
So here is the original post if you have the time and the stamina to sit through it lol
Back when I started I definitely went in with some expectations and assumptions that eventually I learned were more user error and learning more about how to do this type of stuff
However thinking I could use the same PLA And get the same results as my Prusa machines.
And yes I did open a support case with the example models and they came back and said to me it cannot be done with the holes in the enclosure etc
The post reference has pictures and goes into the detail
I read it, thank you for the reference. I was thinking somene in support had told you to drill into your printers enclosure and that didn’t sound like somehing I’d expect from Support.
I believe it was an infill issue. I have some that have looked like that, never cared because they were functional not decorative. However I have quite a few (looking at 2 across the room) that haven’t. You’ll have to discount my statement though, I’m too lazy to take pics and prove it.
Looks like you found your solution, so cool.
I just added my uneeded opinion because I could, and that confused me.