When printing on my X1C or my P1S, I am running in to issues using the stock 0.08mm Extra Fine @BBL X1C/P1S profile. I have printed elegoo black pla and sunlu black pla. I’m printing using the Bambu PLA Basic filament profile (found better results compared to the generic PLA profiles).
As you can see in the images, the outer surface texture is inconsistent, but it follows some sort of pattern at least part to part. All 3 parts were printed at the same time which makes me believe this is not a slicing issue.
This is an easy one. This is caused by one or more of the following:
Nozzle temperature – Higher temps can create shinier surfaces due to more filament melting and smoothing.
Cooling – If you the cooling fans turned high, it could cause this too but not likely in the example you provided. Less cooling allows filament to stay molten longer and smooth out, increasing shine.
Print speed – Related to Max Flow rate. Slower speeds give the filament more time to settle smoothly, leading to shinier walls. In your case, the print nozzle appears to be moving at different speeds which looks like it’s because you have multiple objects on the same plate. I’ll explain below.
Max flow rate – Over-extrusion can cause excess material to squish and smooth, reflecting more light.
As a matter of courtesy and to provide a complete picture, it is generally considered best to post a screenshot of both your preview screen and your prepare screen if you want quality feedback from the community. Bambu Lab does not respond to posts here, so it’s just us fellow enthusiasts left to fend for ourselves. By providing the screenshots, others can better understand the intent of the slice before it was sent to the printer. Isolated photos of the end product, although necessary, do not tell the full story.
Cause
If one has two objects on the build plate, the travel speed will be affected as the nozzle moves from one object to another at the same layer height. This is what is likely causing your print defect as the lower portion is smooth which indicates slower nozzle movements while the upper portion is rough indicating that the nozzle is moving too fast for the filament to solidify effectively. Again, this is also caused by improper flow-rate or max-flow-rate calibration.
In your example, you haven’t been complete honest whether you realize it or not. To the untrained eye, it looks like you are experiencing this issue at the bottom of the object. However, it’s clear that the two right hand objects were photographed upside down. When one flips the two, the image makes more sense.
If you want quality help from the community, it’s very important to include complete information and in this case, showing the screengrabs from the slicer for preview and prepare would have helped a lot.
Example.
In this example, if I had improper calibration, as soon as the shorter cube was finished printing the subsequent layers would move much more rapidly. This will cause the remainder of the cylinder to fail to solidify correctly.
First and foremost, learn to manually calibrate your filament, do NOT rely on autocalibration, there are plenty of tutorials here, simply search. Orca Slicer is best for this and here is the tutorial: Calibration · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer Wiki · GitHub
If you don’t wish to learn calibration, then you could also just slow the print down by using quiet mode. This is a single-click solution that can only be executed after the print starts. This is found in the device menu. Note: this will double print time but it’s a good diagnostic step.
Use the print by object mode. This will force the printer to print each object first before moving onto the next. For newbies this can be frustrating function to use because the slicer will force you to space the objects far apart and often, not all the parts will now fit on the build surface forcing you to print multiple times. Use the “arrange objects” button to autoarrange but note that you may see your objects disappear if there isn’t enough room. They will still be there, just moved off that build plate. You’ll have to create a second build plate and move them onto that and print them separately.
Although remedies 2 and 3 will help, they are only Band-Aids. The real solution is to get at the root of the problem which is faulty calibration in this case.
Thank you for the thorough reply! This was my first post so I apologize for my oversights. I will keep your recommendations for positing in mind for my future posts.
I appreciate your ideas for fixing the issue. I will try them and respond with the results.
That would be greatly appreciated by the community. It’s one thing for us to help each other out, it’s very helpful when folks close the loop and let the community know what resolved the issue as this helps future questions on this topic.
Hey! Did you get it fixed? I got the same weird problem. It only happens on the profile’s anything better quality then 0.2 standard and also the supports are failing aswell.
i dont know how to upload a picture in here
I don’t use Bambu filament and always calibrate my filaments.
From there I know that the Bambu profiles are only really optimised enough for 0.2mm.
Anything below that and the filament calibration becomes rather crucial.
Just to the basic math based on the nozzle diameter and layer height in use.
You will how quickly the extrusion volume goes down with the layer height and how then any flaw increases the low the layers are.
My standard matte PLA rolls produce near perfect prints all the time and that (if the model allows for it) at speeds of up to 450mm/s.
But just going one profile lower to 0.12mm layers and high quality and all hell breaks loose unless I select a filament profile with a matching calibration.
Worse when trying 0.8mm layers with the filament profile unchanged.
I am still not 100% sure whether this calibration flaw is within the defaults or just a matter of how the default calibration only works for 0.2mm layers.
But I do know that some filaments are pain to check with the Bambu patches, like clear or matte filaments.
Where I would get lets say a 1.02 flow ratio after checking the patches from all possible angles with a good magnifying glass, doing it manually and old school often provides a difference either direction of up to 0.2 - MORE than enough to throw things off at low layer heights.
For some of the harder to check filaments the difference can be up to 0.3 in my tests.
I think Orca does better calibration job than Studio but I also think Bambu should provide a way to calibrate filaments based on the lowest layer height and highest quality settings.
Preferably though just a calibration that does not take over and hour and then still is inconclusive…
K-factor and flow ration should be calibrated together and also work for all layer heights and quality settings.
Until this works as advertised my best suggestion is to properly calibrate the filaments for lower layer heights - even if it means adding a filament profile for just that.
